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Starters...


unccpathfinder
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ok have everything hooked up in the swap and if u recall i had a diff motor in and couldnt get the starter to work...

 

so completly new wiring harness, starter and all that jazz and the same thing it just clicks once so i wired it up with a switch and i think i might have melted the solenoid or something b/c now i get a const. 12 volts off of the relay wire

 

so i guess now im going to have to go get a new starter and try and figure it out but i dont wanna waste a new starter...

 

any ideas of what this could be...i hear my relays clicking just no action from the starter

 

and everything else seemed to be great on the swap...except for it didnt start and there might be issues after i get her cranked but till then im stuck on this whole starter issue

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The relay wire might be wired up wrong, I dunno. If it has 12V going to the starter fulltime, that's not right. You can test the starter with a $5 starter bump switch from Harbor Freight, just hook one clip to the battery cable on the starter and the other to the solenoid wire. Hit the button, if it cranks then the starter's good...or you could just try jumping the terminals with a short piece of wire, same thing. Just touch one end to the battery cable, the other to the solenoid terminal.

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its under the dash right and not in the engine compartment...i'll have to dig out my manual to find it...hopefully i can get this figured out cuze its really disappointing to have 90% of the work done and in the moment of truth a pesky lil starter doesnt work

 

 

i was also thinking...does an auto and manual flywheel have the same number/pitch of teeth

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hmm i think i might have just had an epifiny (pretty sure i spelled that wrong) but on the relay if i didnt have it screwed into the body would that be the ground on the relay or should there be a wire that runs to the relay seperatly...

 

and if for some reason that ground wasnt connected would the relay still click but not send the voltage to the solenoid??

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ok well i set up my redneck starter testing station...

 

battery out of my 64 scout...old neg battery cable running from + post to starter post...wire wrapped there then a wire on the solenoid wire (this is my starter switch) then an old amp wire wrapped around the - post and wrapped around a stud that had a nut threaded onto it going into 1 of the mounting holes and tighetened the nut down on the wire...bumped the wires together and...

 

the damn thing turned a flip so the conclusion is...starter is good wiring is bad somewhere

 

 

so got a wild hair and tried the old starter and it worked too...so either somethings messed up in the old ignition (which i tried the newer 1 too and they both didnt work) or somethings wrong in the wiring

 

so this is a good thing or a bad thing...hoping i can just run some drop lines to a couple of switches and possibly set up some sort of "nascar" style starting system

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its sorta like thisbut not really but that might help some1 or be where he got it from...

 

i dont 100% follow that...but thats cuze i hate wiring but its something to that effect...

 

i've got my diagram out and was comparing it to see how i can pull this off...

 

 

my real delima is me doing the auto to manual swap and the difference in the wiring there and but from what i've read and people have said its not an issue but from looking at the diagrams i think it is...

 

but what i have in mind this weekend is to make sure everything i need to switch on will at pos 4 (the on pos) then if thats the case (havent checked out the diagram close enough to see what pos 5 actually turns on and if its all momentary)

 

and i have a momentary switch that i will run straight to the starter and if the inhibitor relay needs it i'll do that but i havent seen anything that restricts the coil pack so i assume that if at pos 4 everything is on and i just need pos 5 to turn the starter over then i should be money...but with my luck thats not the case...

 

i plan to go thru this fully on sat and hopefully get some straight pipe roar (open headers and yea i know its going to throw a light but i cant get the O2 out of the old exhaust...

Edited by unccpathfinder
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