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87 v6 engine issues


ruggs
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I am new to this site and my new Pathfinder for that matter. Anyways, I have a few questions about my engine. The motor has 225,000 km's on it.

 

1) My engine hunts for an idle while it's warming up: It surges to 2000+ rpm and the hiney drops out of it down to 1000 or so. What could be cuasing this? The throttle positioning sensor?

 

2) Also, when I am driving it cold and I rev it up to 3000+ before a gear change, the rpms stay up at 3000+ for a second or two even though my peddle is let off. TPS also? Sticking throttle bodt linkeage?

 

3) Once it warms up, it kinda feels like it is missing on one cylinder when idleing. Once I give it a little gas it clears up. WTF? Do I have a toasted plug or something?

 

4) Also one of my motor mounts (drivers side) is missing it nut. It was popped out but I put it back into the hole. Does anyone know what size nut it is. It seems to have to be a pretty thin nut to fit it in there.

 

Cheers

 

and thanks for listening

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try a new oxygen sensor for your idle problems and also verify the timing... if you do both and are still getting the same results, then look for a code on your ECU ... if you get anything it will probably be something relating to the EGR ...

 

also check the linkages and make sure that the throttle valve is nice and secure ... they have a tendency to loosen up a bit after a lot of miles ...

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try lubricating the linkages if its sticking

 

pull the pugs and see what condition they are in, if there stuffed do the plugs and wires together

 

you cant get any thing in there to measure the diameter of the bolt?

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Guest bigwavedv

If you havent figured it out yet, these engines (and lots others) are sensitive to air bubbles in the antifreeze, and when they pass sensors it will cause the revs to fluctuate. So make sure the antifreeze is topped off and if possible let air out. Mine did the same 2000 rpm bit until all air was out. FYI

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Hey thanks for all of the info guys, I appreciate it. I will use some carb cleaner on and in the throttle body to loosen everything up. How do you check the code on the computer? Do I need a special tool or do I need to just jump a special plug to get the code flashing like on a toyota?

 

It does have a slight exhaust leak close the ox sensor also. Could that be a major problem?

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If you havent figured it out yet, these engines (and lots others) are sensitive to air bubbles in the antifreeze, and when they pass sensors it will cause the revs to fluctuate. So make sure the antifreeze is topped off and if possible let air out. Mine did the same 2000 rpm bit until all air was out. FYI

no kidding?!? ... I've never heard of that ... does that apply to VG30I's? where did you learn about that ...

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  • 2 weeks later...

I will clean out my throttle body but do you gus really think that is causing my idle hunting problem while it's warming up? I would think that's a sensor of some sort. Maybe today I'll be able to do a diagnostic on it. Do I have to remove my passenger seat o do this? I can;t see any lights on it, only two plugs going into the front of the ecu and the rest of the computer has a plastic cover. Do I havce to take this cover off?

 

Cheers

 

Ruggs

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Ok so I finally got around to do the diagnostic test on my pthfinder. The first code that flashed was 11. The crank position sensor. WTF does this sensor do, is it expensive and will it cause any drivability problems? Has anyone had this code before? So then I erased that code to see if another one would come up and 44 came up. But there is no 44 code, atleast not on the code list from this website. Anyone have an idea of what that could be? :confused:

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the crank angle sensor basically tells the computer when the #1 is at TDC ... so it knows how to time the fuel and the spark to the cylinders ...

 

 

the crank angle sensor in our rigs is built into the distributor and is NOT a servicable part ... replace your distributor ...

 

I dont know what code 44 is ...

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no friggin way.......... I have to replace the distributor!!! How much cake is that gonna cost me? Would that sensor make the symptoms I have described above? ALso does the distubutor out of the newer efi VG30's match the one in mine with the throttle body injection? After I reset the computer the first time, the code 11 didn;t come back, just the unknown 44. DOes that mean that the problem isn;t there anymore or dis I just erase it?

 

 

Thanks for all the help man :beer:

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Yes, you have to replace the distributor to fix the angle sensor. Cheapest price I've seen on a rebuilt unit is $190. A OEM replacement is upwards of $480.

 

Mine has been throwing the same 11 code forever too. I swapped distributors with a junkyard unit from a Maxima and it still does it. The only noticeable effect is a occasional idle stumble. When revved, it runs perfectly. I don't know if the distributor from a VG30E would work or not, but I do know the ignition systems are different from the VG30i.

 

Resetting the computer will erase the error codes, yes. Sometimes it'll take a day or so for the code to be generated again and stored in the ECU. Code 44 means "ECCS Normal Operation", according to my Chilton's manual.

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change that into CDN $'s and I am fawked !!! Thanks for the info. What other cars have the some engine? What year maximas are interchangeable. So uyou replaced the distributor in yours and it still does it? Does that mean that teh replacement is toast too?

 

:beer:

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pathfinders, hardbody's, maximas, 300zx and late model 240's all had the same model engine except for minor differences ... the position of the cap on the 300ZX is a little different than ours, but still works ... and the pathy cap will bolt on ...

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest zipo1200

The idle problems did accur when i first purchased mine, but i soon relized that everything was apok with it. the distributer should be replaced, new spark plugs and wires a deffinate must. the throttle body definatly has to be cleaned out and while your at it, look for spitty fuel injectors. one way to test it is to make sure u take of the air filter and plug one of the vacume hos's i cant remember wich one

 

take a flashlight and peer down to see if the droplits of gas are streaming, droping, misting or anything else. if it looks even on all sides, it should be good. but if it looks like its spitting, new fuel injector/s may be required.

 

Buy a path with that many k's on it and hasnt been looked at. i garentee u there is probably going to be one problem after the other. constant check ups, like oil, anti freez, timing, sparks plugs, idle time and engine temputure is highly important.

u also might want to see if that water pump is working right. or look into your antifreez ( make sure its cold) and see if its copery or rusty looking. a good healthy engine should have synthetic oil and brite green rad fluid. also make sure that your tany oil is good to, if its brownish red or smells burnt, replace the oil and pray that your trani doesnt go.. all that said your valves ( like pcv,etc) should be checked out to.

 

most of the time its the oxygen sensor going crazy, after u replace that one thing u should know that the ecu or computer has like a 15 time stand by.

if u replace something and u notice the same code going off. it will do it for the next 15 times and disapeer if the error doesnt accur again. that is high important if your a newbie and trying to fix your vehicle with the same darn problem all the time. if your engine oil has metal in it, check it out to.

put it in a coffee filter and let it dry, greb a stron megnet and see if any metal sticks. if it doesnt then your bearing are warn, if it is. u better get someone to check on it.

 

just some little things to look for when your taken care of your Pathfinder. good luck, any more questions just ask!!!!

 

latta's

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Guest zipo1200

well the 87-> 4 cyl use's the "american branded" engines as the 240 sx's

but if your looking for a much more aggressive for cylinder pumpin about 400 hp or more, u might want to get the Sr20det DOHC from japan, replace the stock turbo, spend about 10k on it, u'll have yourself a sweet silvia! engine......*luaghs histaricaly* in a Pathfinder,lol. but ud be better off putting a chev 4xx block in it to gain the "real" hp

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if your tranny fluid smells burnt or nasty, and never have changed it in 500000 miles. LEAVE IT ALONE... all that gunk, that nasty varnish, thats the stuff that keeps those seals sealing, and those clutches grabbing... ive seen a bunch of trannies die cause the oil was changed in them.. atf is a high detergent oil so thats why...

ATF is also good to add to engine oil a day or 2 before you change your oil if you havent done so in 20000 miles or so... helps loosen up all the nasties that build up...

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