SAS ideas.

[cdhicks99]

I have read several threads on this, but I want to see what you guys think about my specific situation.

 

I plan on keeping the VG30 but pushing it up to 180-200hp,

I want a coil spring setup,

I want very HD but a 60 may be way overkill?,

I want an axle that is already a driver drop,

I plan on heim steering w/ hydra-assist,

cost doesn't matter I just want it perfect.

 

I know very little about the knuckles and their options so what should I be looking for?

 

TIA

Cory

[88pathoffroad]

What size tires are you going to run, and what gear ratios? Do you mean hydraulic steering or did you want to adapt a Chevy Hydro-boost setup? I don't think hydraulic steering is a good idea unless you want to run 38's or go with a fully locked front.

 

An early Bronco or 80's Wagoneer D44 are the best choices AFAIK due to width issues. The Broncoes were already coil-sprung and the Jeeps are leafed. The Jeep axles are easier to find 'cos hardly anybody messes with Wagoneers if they want something reliable, heh. You can build a D44 beefier than you'll ever need with cro-mo axles and whatnot, but it gets spendy as you can probably well imagine.

 

I believe you can simply mill, drill and tap the knuckles for hi-steer if that's the route you want to go. There are lots of options out there. Gotta make sure there's clearance under the oilpan first, though. I think that's a choice you'll want to make after the IFS is gone and the new axle is in place so you can measure.

[cdhicks99]

Somewhere in the 35" range, fully locked.

Hydraulic piston setup.

[Spolar93]

no need for hydro-assist even with 35's. d44 will be fine for those tires, super d44's with chromo and ctm ujoints are good through 37" locked, 38" being the absolute limit, the r&p being the final limiter.

 

coil setup = eb hp44 with radius arms and eb 5.5" lift coils

soa/sua = waggy lp44 with stock waggy leaves for soa and rancho 44044 for sua.

 

heim steering is dumb, when heims break, they break nice and good which is not something you really want to happen with your steering. tre's , even when they are about dead will still function. you must be thinking hi steer. check out www.partsmike.com for a steering kit. stick with tie rods/tre.

 

if you want to go full width, get a 9" for the rear and either do a custom 3/4 link with coils/coil overs, leafs, or try and transplant all the h233b stuff to the 9". you should just be fine using the stock h233b and longarming it and using either 4.5" lifted zj coils or 5.5" lifted eb coils.

 

go over to skidplate alley at nissan4wheelers and rear every thread remotely involved with a sas and pm alot of those guys with your questions. yes, i mean read all 18 or so pages.

Edited August 1, 2006 by Spolar93

[cdhicks99]

OH NO! Spolar you know I'm too lazy for that!

J/K I have read MOST of the SAS threads on all 6 forums I'm a member of. But mine like all others is unique in what I want, and I wanted all my buddies like you to see what I want and how to handle it.

 

Cory

[Filthy Luker]

Grab a HPD44, retube it and make it work with Heep shafts and outers. Weld up the H233B so the only real cost will be regearing.

 

Or...

 

If you can, just grab a Ford 9"/HPD44 combo and ditch the Nissan axles. Rear disc conversions are easy and gears will be cheap. Weld the Ford 9" slap a locker in the front and you're golden.

 

Don't get hell bent on coils. I've seen some insane flexing leaf setups and they're cheap and easy to make work really nice.

 

Just this weekend I booted around in friends buggy... Hydro is NICE .... holy crap is it ever nice... Except his is full hydro steer, with no hard links between steering column and the wheels. Pure fluid. It's spooky at first but turning in a fully welded front/rear buggy on full width axles and 37"s was ridiculously easy. It had a turning radius of a bus tho.

[88pathoffroad]

Yeah, I really don't think you'll need hydraulic steering, it'd just be more to plumb in and get in your way later. You've already got the bigger, beefier steering box(87-90's usually got the wimpy ones) and lots of people run stock Nissan steering with an SAS. I think bumpsteer is actually a lot better with a solid axle, because with the stock steering's design, both tires can and will push each other different directions(up, down, in and out) at the same time under power. With a solid axle you only have to contend with the side-to-side action you get when spinning the tires on a hillclimb, etc. Steering stabilizers are your friend! If/when I get a SAS project together, I'll be running two SS's, just to keep the tires in line.

[cdhicks99]

Good idea Aaron thanks for the tips