madhakish

Ok, so update since last post. Since I pulled and reseated all the relays she's not had a problem until today. Same as before, as soon as key hits position 2 power to the interior, light system and dash dies. Pulled all the relays and reseated them again, and pulled fuses 1 by 1 to inspect - found nothing only this time it was not resolved by reseating the relays.. So Im putting around with things and have the motor running and decide to gun it just to see - at about 3k rpm everything clicked on like a relay suddenly got the voltage it needed to close. So my question is this - which relay is responsible for all primary electrical power outside the engine/alternator/battery/ignition path? Not the main I gather but I don't have electrical schematics off hand.. Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

Those be my wheels! And my paint color! Nice truck! Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

31x10.5x15 falken rocky mountains on d-window cragars.. Love em so far! Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

After a relatively problem free 6 months or so, I've developed a new oddball. Occasionally (and i mean 1 in 10-50 tries) after turning the key to position one, all dash power fails. The clock goes out, blower, dash lights, stereo, head and tail lights all lose 100% power (stereo even resets to defaults). If I shut it off and turn it back on 20 times in a row it'll work fine, starts fine, runs fine. When the interior power does fail, it only appears to be lighting and interior electronics, the engine starts fine, runs fine, no misses, and I have ~13+ volts off the alt and at the battery.. I'm leaning towards a failing relay, as it only happens once in a while but is a complete power loss. Thoughts? Suggestions? I already went around and pulled all relays, put contact grease on them and made sure fuses were all ok. Can't reproduce as it's intermittent so only time will tell if that helped.

'93 marked a change to certain things, and '94-95 brought the round dash, but I do t recall major differences mechanically. Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

Starters are interchangeable, as is most everything else. Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

I drove through Utah at 115f for a week crisscrossing the southern parks, a/c on full, needle pretty much stayed locked at about 3/4, maybe higher, never deviated, never boiled over. In winter the needle hovers at about 1/4, and below 0 I put cardboard in front of the rad to keep heat in. 250k miles, runs like a champion. If you are really concerned add some "water wetter" directly to your coolant (not the overflow). Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

I see them but they're rarely if ever not rusting away. His was in pretty decent shape, rack, front and rear roof lights, nissan oem brush guard, 3" inch lift, and nismo stickers all over

no worries..

Alas, the mystery driver remains anonymous. Saw him again the other day, but was driving the BMW and I think he just thought I was weird for lookin so hard..

Ahh, always good to find other locals on the board.

Saw you in Robbinsdale MN - you ride here?

I hate the &^%*ing eagles..

Nnnnnnnnnnnnggggggg!!!!!! Want so hard.. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hardbody+wiring upgrade is definitely wortwhile, looking forward to seeing it Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That said, I got a massive boost by re-wiring my harnesses to two relays using 10ga wire, and switched to PIAA bulbs.. You'll find write-ups for the relay bit all over..

Cibie does a hard body replacement, and I guarantee you can retrofit some nice morimoto bi-xenon projectors in there. Crisp proper cutoff, and you get quad high beams as a bonus.. Other than that not a lot of options that I've found. I built my BMW e34 headlights off the same basic concept, cut the backs off the housing, separate the glass, mount the projector where the old plug was.

You need to hit a jy and pickup a hard body front end to have a bolt-in - they are different. This has been covered before a few times..

I have always had good experience with Napa's premium pads. I put steel lines on a while back which firmed things up nicely.

Mine was moisture related bit I suspect if yours is doing it all the time moisture may not make it any worse.. Mine would go back to normal once dried off but it was in fact bad. New coil, no issues since. Worth a shot if your out of options..

Coil? Mine would stumble after carwashes and deep puddles unless I kept it at 2k+ rpm, but below that it was like it ran on 4 or 5 cylinders.. Coil was bad.

I ended up picking up some 6" 100w KC off-road lights to mount on my bull-bar or basket when the time comes.. Beefy things. Funny reading your guys stories about HIDs.. I think some of you know I'm restoring a '95 525i (the classic e34 style) and one of the first major cosmetic upgrades I did were HID retrofitted Bi-Xenon projectors. I went with the 55w prolumen kit and nice white 5k bulbs. What this gives me is both low and high xenon beams, and when the high beam activates the cut-off drops out so it's just a giant cone of HID goodness. If you know the e34 you have seen the dual lens headlight setup. What this means specifically for me is that I now have quad high beams. 2x HID Xenon (no cutoff), and 2x halogen. Now I will preface this with the statement everything is properly aligned, no light bleed, beautiful cutoff and totally sealed cans - so this looks about as factory as HID can be. But the 55w prolumen package puts down some *serious* light. So I'm driving through western Wisconsin on my way to Chicago just outside of Madison, its late and lonely and I haven't seen anyone for a while. I'm cresting a hill with a long valley and as I do an oncoming car crests on his side, his brights drop, mine are not on. I get the flash, so I just flashed my low beams off and on to show they were not brights. Flashes me again. I hit the high beams. I can only imagine that it is at this point that a sun-like coronal ejection of lumens slammed into his car with enough voracity to cook paint and melt rubber as a rainbow of spectrum - 3700k, 4300k, 5000k - blasted out of every single light on the front of my humble little bimmer - HID fogs, HID low beams, HID high beams, and Halogen high beams, stared down this poor oncoming soul. He stopped flashing his brights at me after that. I really don't get it very often except when the angles line up like coming over a hill.. Then I can imagine 55w lows seem fairly blinding.

So I managed to get the wiring harness working correctly with relays and 10. Ga. Wire and whoa what a difference.. Its almost hard to believe. I even put in a new but cheap set of silverstars and the difference was massive. I just got my PIAA bulbs today, will see what sort of difference those make with the relay upgrade. Might just have what I was after! That was my fear with LED. Good to know its not based on nothing in particular. Will stick with incandescent until I can get some cibies and retrofit them with morimoto bi-xenon projectors..

So it looks to me like what this picture is showing is a torsion bar touching the mounting bracket for the thrust rod on one side.. The thrust rod is the short little rod connecting your UCA to the frame behind your front tires. Have ford throw it up and check your frame alignment for $95 bucks - can't hurt and you know exactly how far its out and what it will take to fix it. At $100 per alignment and $3-500 for tires, a $300 frame alignment seems cheap.

Welcome Kev! Sounds like you have some fun projects ahead of you.. A.) The clutch pedal, my guess is you need to bleed your clutch.. Go to your nearest parts shop and pickup a do it yourself brake bleed kit. Under the hood along the firewall you'll see a line running from your clutch fluid reservoir (drivers side) over to the passenger side and its got a little bleeder valve on it near the passenger side.. Grab a buddy and have him pump the clutch by hand while you open the screw and add fluid at the reservoir - don't let it get empty or you'll suck air in.. Repeat until no air bubbles comes from the clutch fluid pumping through and it looks clear vs. Old and cloudy/dirty. Now tighten that bleeder valve back up and you should have a solid clutch pedal again. B.) Tough shifting when cold - this is your synchros and there's little you can do.. A fluid flush will help a bit as it will be a bit more viscous when cold. C.) Get 5L of redline mtl 90 and flush/fill your tranny as ebayfish noted, but you will overfill it with 5L instead of the factory 3. (there's a service bulletin about it) which will help keep your bearings saturated and properly. That should get you shifting smoothly again, and welcome to the wonderful world of being your own wd21 mechanic!