k9sar
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Posts posted by k9sar
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just ordered my 2 3"x30'. $42 total
saved 130 off MSRP Thanks for the tip! -
When I pulled mine, I regret that I didn't take the extra time to replace the cam seals, drop the oil pan and clean out whatever gunk was in there. With a 4x4, the pan is nearly impossible to get off without yanking the engine up. Make sure you use a good high temp rtv to reseal the pan so it doesn't give you any problems. If I did it again, I'd also yank the heads and do a valve job and toss the manifolds for a set of headers. Replacing the studs with the better ones is much easier on the bench. Check your rear seal while it's out. That's one place I had a nagging small leak that just dripped from the tranny housing. It'd be a bitch to get at while in the truck. Good luck and have fun. Remember, the leftover bolts don't count as long as you get rid of them before someone questions their necessity.
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pecking at startup for a few seconds until the hydrolic lifters are filled is common. pecking at startup for a few minutes until the engine is warm is the exhaust manifold leak. Check your oil level and viscosity. If it's low or "thick", it could take longer to 'pressurize' the lifters. If this is the case, an oil change would be recommended so that other things don't go bad on you.
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I could stick my fingers through the grill and push the lever down but I'm pretty sure the inside hood latch is not releasing
stupid question but mine pulls up, not pushes down. Are the 97's the same?
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Did a quick check today on the fog lights. Bulbs are fine and there's power at the switch. Is there a relay that those things are wired to? And if so, does anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram for them?
The relay should be on the firewall on the passenger side of the engine compartment. You should be able to trace the wiring back from the fogs and find it. My wires are encased in a black plastic thingamajoober running from the fogs, past the battery, aolng the fender to the relay on the firewall. I don't think I have a wiring diagram for them but I think the power is tapped in under the steering column (probably so they only come on with low beams)
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Get one that goes on the inside.
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Could also be the O2 sensor.
I believe the O2 sensor would yield it's own code in addition (or instead of) the EGR code.
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remove the clamp. Then try twisting or pushing the hose or both. Pulling will actually tighten to the nipple (remember those old chinese finger traps?). Pushing it on hard should spread the hose enough to break it loose. If all this fails, cut it off and hope there is enough play in the hose to get it on the new one, otherwise throw on a new fuel line.
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if nobody chimes in by the time I leave work, I'll check mine (95 V6) and make sure of where the FF is.
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locate the old one, remove it, insert the new one.
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They then said that it would be $413 to replace all of that.
That's where they try to get you... "Since we already have it apart, we can go ahead and replace yadda yadda..." I got mine 'inspected' and they gave me a load of crap about all the things that were wrong and even had the balls to schedule a time to dropoff the pathy for the 'necessary' repairs. I laughed at them and drove away.
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I opted not to cut mine. Instead, I chose the "lots of cussin and bloody knuckles" approach.
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the knock may be a rod berring and it may be cheeper to deal with that then to buy a nother motor.
My bearings ran about $3 each. My junkyard motor was over $700. Best to take care of it now before you do serious damage.
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there are seals... here are the fronts for a 95
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front inners run about $25, outers about $20. or you can pay 40 to 50 at the stealership.
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just curious... anyone else ever heard a timing chain go? I did. She got real noisy!
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factory service manual. You can usually get one from the stealership when you buy your vehicle (if it's within a few years of new) or check ebay. It'll put those Haynes and Chiltons to shame.
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There have been a few folks in here with the same problem (myself included). Had to take mine to a tranny shop to fix since I was not getting the oil pressure needed to drive the reverse (pump was shot). While they had it open, the replaced a bunch of worn stuff and she runs like a champ now. Have a go at the search button and you'll probably find other instances. Good luck
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. They've got everything from Clocks, to baby clothes, to thongs, and bags...
I can see it now.... an infant outfit that reads "I just did a Jeep thing. Now, pull over the Pathfinder and change me."
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IF nobody replies with the info you are looking for, might I suggest testing all of them and comparing? Perhaps one will standout as being different and thus, may be your problem.
just a thought.
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I've buried my rear diff a few times and drowned it a few hundred. That little orange sticker is tough!
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in 95, there were 2 versions of the XE available. 2WD and 4WD. The SE only came in 4WD. As for standard features...
check www. edmunds.com
look under used cars, select the 95 Pathfinder and once you get to the trim levels, there's a set of link on the left to get the standard features etc.
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2-door..... bah!
anyway... welcome to the forums
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maybe they're classified via the JIS instead of ANSI or traditional metric
Brakes?
in The Garage
Posted
A perfect opportunity to buy more tools! I got tired of busting my knuckles all the time so I went ahead and installed an air system in my garage. I love the whining sound of the air ratchet when the bolts come free