str8andnarrwpath

Got back in there. it was the adjster rod, makes a big difference when its out....... Thanks for the assistance & replies.

Had a bad leak, thought it was the slave,replaced it............ suprise still leaking inside on the floor. replaced clutch master & bled & bled. pedal is still soggy? & the travel is less than before or it engages later. Got cold & called it a night. i think it needs adj at the rod & maybe more bleeding? anyone have a super secret tip? thanks

taking the hood offf makes things easier. rad out. the front diff neeeds to come out, i tried to avoid this as i had the engine on the hook of a picker ready to come out. unless you cut off the bottom of the oil pan or remove it and the oil pick up it will not clear. lesson learned, with the diff out you have room to wiggle and shove when its time to mate the engine(little tricky) to the trans. you can leave the trans in place but loose on the mounts again for wiggle. have fun with those exhaut studs (shudder).

i just finished this job. i ran into the frozen pin on both, drilling was the solution. if the pin wont budge after a few good smacks go straight at it with the drill. start with a small diameter bit,drill deep like 3/4 of the way through. then increase the diameter of bit so it takes out all the pin leaving a very thin wall, if it doesnt fall out then smack it again with a long punch. "DRILL BABY DRILL!" deep and wide. thanks for the how to.

i have a similar problem,check to make shure your fan free spins when engine is cold. if it spins all the time could be stuck on? or getting to the stage where it will be stuck on. does the engine take a while to warm up? mine does. i dont know if its a fix or replace thing, maybe its a common problem? hope this helps

on the way home........bad bad noise(crunch munch crunch). automaticaly i think t-belt,it was overdue to be replaced. it wont fire just turns over and over. i am certain although i havent dug in the motor to check. my question is new heads or whole motor? is there serious damage to the pistons? short of pulling it all apart,whats the easiest way to find out? what is the best way to go about this? how much will a motor or heads cost me? i am pissed and not thinking straight.....can anyone help me out. thanks -mike

you guys covered it and some. i have a new trail list now. but i have some things to add. -big bag of nut's and seeds or trail mix always in the glove box,good for traffic jams.....better in emergency's, wont go bad or spoil. and a "sven saw" :02: http://www.svensaw.com/ -m

thanks for the reply's people i'm hoping that the bushings in the hinge will fix the rattles.....not to concerned about how tough it'll be to do it. just dont want to commit time to something that wont fix the problem. guess if that doesn't work then it'll be relocate it to the roof? or does anybody have any experience with aftermarket rear bumper/carrier's? i have seen some nice looking "arb's" on some trucks. -m

sorry forgot to mention 92 xe, and the wheel is 10.5 by 31 on a 15" rim with a wider offset

title says it all........but my real question is will replacing the bushings keep it from rattling. or will the weight from the full size spare not allow for the rattling to be silenced? do i have to live with it or does the experience of the npora find otherwise? i know this has probably been covered but my search was tough to find the answer i'm looking for. any help would help put my mind at ease. -m

current truck has 280,000km the old one had 530,000km -m

GREY 92 XE my old pathy was red on top and grey on bottom. -m