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BoneZ

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Posts posted by BoneZ

  1. Its simple Kyle Messed with the wiring in it when he had it most likely for the sterio. Then a while after he sold it his butt connector or soter job on the wires came undone. :happy: Is that the one that use to have the fox logo on the back window kyle? On a real note I would look at the areas of the harness that splice together. Last winter I was having strange electrical problems and it turned out one of the splice areas had water getting in it and was breaking down the wires so I was getting intermediat groounds all over the place. I simply cut out that section and replaced it with a nice soter job and heat shrink wrap.

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  2. That sounds like the CPI/spider issue. If she wants to keep the truck it's worth the rebuild. You will probably want to check the cat since it's probably been dumping fuel. The cat will likely be clogged or melted.

     

    I agree with this, It is a classic problem with that style 4.3L

  3. Allot of people do it because they put parts on there rig allot of people want and are on a forum that says what state there from and with you licance plate number they can get your address to come over and remove your parts 4 them self. The difference now is when you run that same search your licance number is recorded so if the car is stole and you looked it up they have your name. The problem was massively addressed with that little change.

  4. Hey Bonez!

     

    This is good info. So you are saying it would be best to change both front and rear axles? Not just the front? Don't any have matching gear ratios so that I can keep my locker?

     

    I stole that chunk from another post I made elsewhere, I would leave the rear axle you have, and just do the front. As for the gear question, you can go with 4:88 in the front and get the 4:90 gears out of a xtera. That is what i did. If you want to spend more money you can get 5:13 for the nissan rear end and the dana 44 but will cost a fair amount of money.

  5. To help with the axle thing

     

    1974-1979 Wagoneer, front and rear dana 44's (some 1974-1975 had drum brakes) (rear 44 is offset to clear the fuel tank) (front is passenger side drop)Wrong side drop.

     

    1980-1983 Wagoneer, front dana 44 and rear AMC 20 (it is NOT the weak 2-piece axle type like the CJ's) (front is drivers drop and remains drivers drop until the end of production in 1991)Will work under pathfinder

     

    1984-1985 Grand Wagoneer, front dana 44 and rear AMC 20 (front 44 has a vacuum axle disconnect, try to stay away from this one, swapping it out or removing it and changing the axle shafts is an easy fix though)Avaoid because of vacume disconect

     

    1986-1991 Grand Wagoneer, front and rear dana 44 (rear dana 44 is mostly centered - just a little offset) Best choice for pathfinder SAS.

  6. This is a standard aftermarket upgrade in the dunebuggy world and would be useful for open diffs and LSD alike to get power to the wheel you want to in a leg up situation. Never considered it for a 4x4 but it's the same principle... :shrug:

     

    B

     

    If you watch top truck challenge 2010 the truck class winner Jason grey, used cutting brakes (cable and handle for each wheel) to take a corner the rigs with rear steering were 2 point turning. Awesome rig to see in person I will try to get a pic of it by my pathy so you get a idea of how big it is if I can make it to summer bash.

  7. This seems a little off to me we use to buy bugs, for around 50-200 dollars most of them did not run but we had a VW bus engine we used in them and 2 sets of paddles the 4 and 5 bolt styles. we would go buy a bug drop the bus engine in Really easy like 4 Bolts and a throttle cable lol. Then we would take it out to the dunes being fallowed in another rig, get there throw the paddles on and have fun tell it was to gone to dring home then we would pull the engine and paddles and junk the rest.

  8. On round keyed lugs like that this is how you remove them. Take a grinder with a cut off wheel in 2 opposite sides of the lug nut cut a flat edge on them so you can put a adjustadle wrench on them with a pry bar on the end of it and remove them.

  9. Nissans like NGKs (or factory pieces), just like the only thing that likes Autolites are the neighbor you don't likes lawn mower...

     

    Actually Autolites work great in dodge engines, they are the best running plug im my 360 although it dose have a performance cams, over sized injectors and is honed .020 every cylinder.

  10. BoneZ: IMG_2679.jpg

     

    :chairfall:

    Like I said happens on trails but not on sand to me at least. I was not even running that low of pressure that day its that dam stump that jumped out in front of me and caught the bead just right.

  11. There is no right or wrong answer to this problem, It matters on several things.

    1. How fluffy the sand is

    2. What type of tire

    3. What type of wheel

    4. The way you run the rig

    5. The weight of the rig

     

    Those are just a few I thought of really quick. To make this make more since on my dodge in the sand with its maxxis big horn tires I usually run them between 10-15 pounds mattering on the density of the sand. But with the swampers on the pathfinder I drop them to about 6 pounds, I have never lost a bead while doing sand. have lost beads a few times on trails though but that different. If you plan to run a set of tires at low pressure allot and do not have beadlocks I would suggest a bead of silicone to mate the rim to tire on both sides.

     

    Like I said though there are so many variables there is no wright or wrong answer it is preference of the driver.

  12. I always use 89. Only because the shell station I usually go to says "no ethanol" on the middle grade and premium choices.

     

    You will not see that no ethanol much longer, Most states now require 5-10 percent ethanol, and it is looking like it will soon be a federal requirement. I am against this stuff makes no sence that they are adding a chemical that makes gas less efficient and causes more ware on engines. It is a big joke.

  13. Bonez,

     

    You said you had the 5.5" bronco springs in the rear of your pathfinder? Do you have current pictures of the truck with it installed? I have the 3.5" waiting to be installed and I'm hoping they're tall enough for me.

     

    I do not have a camera right now old one got broke and I have not replaced or I would be posting lots of pics of the SAS in progress. It is 2-3" higher in the back then it was with the ac 3" springs.

  14. Installed my MM hubs, was also going to install my new valve cover gaskets, but it seems after tightening the screws as I was told by some members on the forum. The leak is gone, amazing!

     

    The MM hubs are quite nice actually when I started looking more at them, for 80$ they are a steal, even came with all the needed hardware AND a allen key!

     

    Photo1.jpg

     

     

    Keep a eye on the hardware, Those are only grade 5 Allen head bolts. I ended up replacing them all besides that great hubs.

     

     

    got the new coils on today...... he's now 2-3" TALLER than he was and now needs new shocks as his are MAXED OUT with the new coils. also gave the t bars a 1" crank to get them back to where they were. (they lowered his t bars in Ca to align him)

     

    I am 5'8" (and a 1/4)..... and this is us today when we got home

     

    IMG_0384.jpg

     

    :wub: time to go shopping for new shocks!

     

    What coils are those you used I put the bronco 5.5" lift ones in the rear of my pathy now and the shocks I used with the 3" AC springs are over maxed out had to compress suspension about 1/4" to get them to go on fully extended.

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