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Geeky907
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Posts
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Last visited
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Your Pathfinder Info
94 Xe-V6 Auto Hankook Zovac Rubber, Halfway Decient sound-system, K&N Intake Conversion (Smogable) and everything else STOCK!
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Your Age
22-29
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What do you consider yourself?
Weekend Warrior
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Year
1995
Geeky907's Achievements
NPORA Newbie (1/5)
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Recieved: Sunday, January 21, 2007 12:49 pm
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Ok, this is EERIE.... draginautoman you have EXACTLY the same rig's i have even the same colors.... . wierd... - Geeky907
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well.. before my 94 was totaled.... i was getting 15city in 4x4 and almost 20 highway.... only trick i have is a custom K&N and i run premium shell gas in it... and thats in the winter, in the summer add 1mpg to each of those numbers - geeky907
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WHy thanks for the education there, i just wasnt aware... i guess it makes sense... just never really thought about it... - Geeky907
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Yup, my lady's 94 has ABS and it accually works... but you gotta half break your foot smashin the brake to get it to activate... only time i ever really noticed it is when i serviced the brakes and had to bleed the whole system.... gettin that damn ABS light to turn off was a BEARCAT!!!... just for reference, the "abs valve" is inside the passenger side frame-rail about centered in the vehicle... doesnt look like much just has a couple wires to it and some steel brake-line... - geeky907
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Accually, 99% of "electric turbochargers" are a bloody joke unless we are talking Remote control models and such.... providing BOOST to an engine is a function of CFM relitive to PSI... in order to produce enough CFM's at a given PSI to provide Boost to an engine it takes some POWER, and im not talking the kinda power you can derive from a computer-fan in a cute little housing.... ... if you figure that a standard belt driven supercharger draws upwards of 30% of your stock horsepower to spin it and create boost that gives you a relitive idea of what it REALLY takes to "boost" an engine... now, relate that HP into amps and volts.... can you pass that kinda "power" thru small wires? NO... unless thease "electric turbochargers/superchargers" are packing battery-cable to them, they are NOT going to be substantially effective except as more of a air-swirling device like the popular TORNADO "air spinner dohickey"... AKA... USELESS... now... for that 1%... there is a company that makes a GENUINE, Bonifide electric turbo/supercharger.... Thomas Knight.... http://www.boosthead.com/home.php but if you observe the wiring required and the battery-bank you'll see... thease "e-bay special" 40$ "electric turbochargers" arent worth the box they're shipped in atleast in regards to boost to your motor.... - Geeky907
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MAN!!... that looks almost exactly like what happened to my wife's 94....LAST WEEK!!! http://home.gci.net/~thingsnot2do/twins/DCP07389.JPG Front Closeup http://home.gci.net/~thingsnot2do/twins/DCP07393.JPG side Right into the side of a 91 subaru station wagon.... punk kid pulled outa the sears parkinglot infront of me in mommey's suby... You arent by chance interested in parting with the front and rear differentials are ya??? and the trans if its a manual? - Geeky907
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Not sure i agree with this.... Yes, Definately, running 4wd in the summer on dry pavement is just asking to wear out very expensive parts... however, do you honestly think ANY automaker would design a 4x4 system on a "soccer mom's" SUV in such a way that accidently throwing it into 4wd and turning a corner on dry pavement would do any kind of marked-wear on the driveline??? do you honestly beleve, an auto-maker would be as highly regarded as nissan if they built a system that unforgiving.... yes absoloutely, if you have welded front and rear diff's yeah, no doubt you ARE GOING TO break something... however if you're completely open up-front, there is absoloutely no reason the front dif shouldnt be able to "differential" going around a corner... HELLO MCFLY.. that's what they're designed to do... seriously, the binding you likely felt was because of the 4wd trying to pull also... probably not a BAD feeling but different then what youre used to..... now, take it from someone with MANY years of experience with many brands of 4wd .... your stock pathfinder will NOT be hurt by running in 4x4 ... even if you accidently have it activated on dry roads.... Example... 94 nissan pathfinder v6 auto... my wife's truck... every summer we make a point of taking it out into a dirt lot a couple times a summer, pull the 4wd in and play in the dirt.... no NEED for the 4wd... but it rotates the CV's and the front driveline make sure to keep things limber.. (un-nessicary in reality, however it makes mama think she's doin maint to her truck and havin fun doin it) .... fall... i make sure to go thru and lube the chassis and check the diff-juice... (along with the t-case, trans, engine etc etc....) first snow fall... even if it's 1/4 inch.... the 4wd lever gets pulled in and it gets left there all winter.... PERIOD!... NO QUESTIONS... EVER... ... everything between -40degree temps and polished black-ice to 38degrees (like today) and rain-covered street's with ice-patches that can (and did yesterday) send 18-wheeler's off into the ditch.... ... that may meen the highways are bone-summer-dry... and the side streets are ice-rinks... ... wet,dry,cold,hot... the pathy stays in 4x4... have i EVER had any drive-line problems on that truck... NO!... is running 4x4 causing excess wear-and-tear on my driveline.... not likely.... and i'd love somebody to PROVE to me on HER TRUCK that it is.... anyways.... sorry guys.... new guy shouldnt be ranting...... but whatever - Geeky907
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accually... here's the info i've been able to gleen from the local nissan dealership.... (they're REALLY kick-a$$ kinda guys) 1st gen, 80's - 90 (squared off gauges).... if the gauges start actin funky try replacing the voltage reg behind the gauge cluster, little thing about 2/3 the size of a pack of trident gum.... looks like a little heatsink with wires... 2nd gen... 90-94,5 freaky gauges?... buy new ones.... the factory gauge cluster (the rounded looking one) is accually failing.... it usually starts with the Tach freaking out, then the spedo will start sticking or failing to read at all... unfortunately there doesnt seem to be a fix except to replace the whole stinkin gauge cluster which is hundreds of $ from nissan.... now, some have said they can commit all kinds of acts of goodness towards their gauges by re-seating connectors, applying new dialectric grease to the plugs, and re-lubing the gauges and all of thease things in their own right have technical merit, and absoloutely can be attempted by the DIY'r before diagnosing a blown cluster.... however unfortuantely the 2nd gen pathy's just flat had a crappy gauge cluster.... - Geeky907
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Yeah, its accually pretty normal... depending on the age of the accual exaust system components the creaking will change.... and it also has alot to do with how hot the Cat gets.... also can TECHNICALLY be a sign that the cat is plugged and getting too hot.... but unless you've had problems like running rich or burning LOTS of oil i wouldnt worry about it.... if you can punch the gas and the truck jumps alive.... it aint a plugged cat - geeky907
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Sorry to sound ignorant here (but what else do you expect from the new guy)..... but most the "motorcycles" around here have atleast a 8inch wide tire on em.... and most of my oil-leaks leave a single dime-sized drip every couple miles..... how is this dangerous to motorcycles? and is this any more dangerous then riding a VERY modified Crotch-rocket without a helmet in a tank-top and cut-off's at 100+mph on busy/crouded highways??? - Geeky907
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did a front crank seal on mine less then a year ago and it looks like its gone again.... dunno why but it seems that the front crank oil-seal is possibly a weakness or at the very least a "touchy spot" for the ol vg30 just my 0.02$ - geeky907
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dont have any experience with washington... but where im from in ak, you can LEGALLY come strait outa the cat with a 90 and dump it behind the drivers door... it just cant be 'unsafe' aka... sicking outt 3 feet, and must be reasonably secured... but the cat must be in sttock location... hope this helps - geeky907
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My Pathy (well, its the woman's... but i drive it more then she does) ... has had a PS Rear Lower Exhaust stud broken for over 3 years... no problems yet... and its only truly "noisy" when its cold-soaked... (lower then 10degrees over night) and then its just loud enough u can hear it over the blower-motor ... im just not ambitious enough to tackle it... god knows ive done enough ford 460's and GMC 366's with broken exhaust studs, to know I DONT WANT 2 GET INVOLVED!
