InfamousDuckMan

Are these what you're thinking of? Saw these a while ago, not sure how effective/legal they'd be. Might be alright if you want to have them alternate for Emergency lights photo hosting

photo upload I know its kind of hard to see in the picture, The white pole sticking out of my roof is a 2.1 metre GME antenna, In Australia we use UHF radios as the standard, but the principle is the same.

Not sure if this has been mentioned before, but I put a kit similar to this on my Truck... its MAGICAL, & almost Road legal here in Victoria (Australia). By some ridiculous regulation, it needs to be Hi/Lo (ok), but also needs individual washers (wtf?). Hi/Lo HID BI-XENON KIT http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300525389973 The Pathfinder stock wiring serves only as a switch, ie from the stock headlight control stalk. Theres an adadpter that plugs straight in. The actual lights are powered independently off the battery, with an independent relay, control box, ballasts & new globes. The kit even comes with bayonet adapters to fit the H4 headlight slot. It took all of 30 minutes to install... with a torch in the dark... So far the only other thing I needed to do was tape off the back end so its waterproof. Awesome. --DuckMan.

Have a look at these types of lights on Ebay, theres heaps around from heaps of different sellers, in heaps of different locations. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/55w-HID-Driving-Lights-7-inch-EURO-399-00-PAIR-/170658138840?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bc048ad8 I have only a single pair of these on the roof of the Duck Truck, and they really do live up to their standard. --DuckMan.

Thanks y'all. Very Helpful. --DuckMan.

So I have a whirring sound from my engine, narrowed it down to this patricular wheel off my A/C belt, but its not the belt itself. I need to go to Repco & pick up a replacement bearing, but I dont know what the part would be listed as. Here it is: --DuckMan.

G'day! I know its been a while since the last post, but I saw this & figured on a solution. The wheelspin you're getting in the mud, its only on the wheel that has no traction, ie. Right/Front wheel is spinning, but Left/Front wheel is sitting still? Opposite for the rear? If this is the case, its not you're hubs, even though Manual hubs are awesome. Its the centre of your diffs releasing the open wheel for on road turning. This video explains it pretty well. Lockers are expensive, but REALLY worth their money. --DuckMan.

So I hit a Kangaroo, made my panels look a bit sad. Got that all fixed up ($1200 later). Then I needed a bumper. I bit the bullet, Called ARB & got some advice. When the guy looked it up, The ARB Deluxe Bullbar for the WD21s is now showing as 'Superseded', ie, ARB is not making them anymore. He did find 2 bars in stock, in South Australia & New South Wales, which would be about $90 in freight in addition to the $1267 to supply & fit it. In light of that I've decided not to go with the ARB & try to find a way to do it myself, but just thought I'd let y'all know. THEY'RE GONE!! --DuckMan.

Just as a point of interest, thought I'd add this. I called ARB yesterday, to Supply & Fit the Deluxe Bar here in Melbourne is $1100. Its a shame they've canned it over there, but its being made over here... Despite being stupidly expensive. --DuckMan.

G'day everyone, So I'm overhauling my installs, & I'm just wondering how do I best run cables from on top of the dashboard, so they go down the firewall & either into the engine bay or to the back of devices in the radio slots. Any ideas? --DuckMan.

So I am going to do the cone filter idea in my 94, but since I really can't be bothered taking the stock filter off just to measure it, does anyone happen to know the tube's diameter for the adapter piece?

As for CBs, I would always go for a Fibreglass antenna (ie. The Firestick in your example) over a whip because they maintain their rigidity & therefore the signal wont flex because the antenna wont flex... much. Also, the fibreglass Firesticks are specifically tuned to the application, in your case 27MHz CB, as a whip may not be, & may require extra tuning. Your only issue now is to look at your total height clearance. If you want to get under carparks & bridges, Whip. If not too worried, Fibreglass. I like my GME. It gets a lot of people walking past, looking straight up. HA! --DuckMan.

G'day! I had the same problem on my 94 a while ago. It got quite annoying when doing U turns. Anyways, my solution was to bite the bullet, & pay the $600 AUD for a Genuine Nissan service. This problem was fixed when they flushed my steering system (the whole lot) & filled it again. This was one of quite a few things that have dramatically improved since the genuine service. Awesome. --DuckMan.

I won this roo bar on Ebay... for $1. Furthermore when I got to Bendigo to pick it up the bloke I bought it from admired my 2 hour drive (& another 2 to get back) that he let me keep my dollar... my precious dollar. I was told it came off this bloke's Landcruiser that got rolled. It has a custom winch mount in the middle, & isnt significantly damaged anywhere. Has about 50% of surface rust, & has no existing mounts. Any suggestions or things I should look out for when making this bar fit my rig? Chime in with anything y'all feel like saying! --DuckMan.

I had exactly the same problem, I had the grinding issue covered HERE, then did the overfill, & my syncro died, as I outlined HERE. Check these threads out, the people here gave me some real helpful feedback. --DuckMan.

I've got my rig back now, had it for a few weeks actually, & its doing well so far. Figured I'd give it a few weeks before a review. So its BEAUTIFULLY quiet! oh & I'm getting more power too. Anyway, a lot of money down, but well worth it I guess. Now here is the dodgey bit, when I picked my rig up, I asked the bloke at the workshop about the overfilling that Madkiwi talks about HERE. He wasnt familiar with this & recommended me not to, he suggested that the changing temperatures within the case will increase the pressure & break something else, & as a result will not be covered by the warranty. Now stands the question, who do I trust? Someone who just rebuilt my gearbox (or sent it to Sydney for someone else to rebuild), or Madkiwi's information linked above? --DuckMan. PS. To '95Pathmaker': My transmission is the Manual 5 speed, I forgot to mention that earlier.

The Duck Truck has done almost 300,000 Kms. Had its engine replaced with a brand new one before I bought iteverything else major appears to be looking good, no body rust, nothing. So I should be getting it back tomorrow. My parents are helping out with the money so I guess after this I'll just have a good reliable truck that will continue to go everywhere. --DuckMan.

Last week my transmission randomly decided to stop downshifting into second gear. Going up crunched a little, but I double clutched to avoid this. I have since found out that I have thrown a synchro ring. So the parents thought it would be a prudent time for me to get the transmission rebuilt, this decision came instead of selling it & buying another rig. Anyway, so now it's been in the Workshop for almost a week now. On the day I dropped it off the bloke called pretty quickly & said it needs to be removed so he can have a look inside, this is $920. Up to this point this was everyting I expected. Gave him the green light to do it. So today I get a call... He said the Gearbox is Cactus (Dead). I need a changeover. I kind of expected this too. I was quoted $2750 for this by someone who has conveniently gone on holidays. He went on to tell me the price is still $2750 & he will get one in from Sydney. HOWEVER this was excluding $550 in Labour. I was also told the wear indicators on the clutch show that it is also on its way out, even though when I bought the car just over a year ago, the previous owner had already had the clutch replaced. There goes another $800. Thank god no extra labour. So there we have it. $4,100 in repairs on a car worth $5,000. Had I not have already fronted the $920 for the removal & refit only to be told that I need a changeover I would have cut my losses. /rant Just had to vent with some people who actually know what they're talking about. For anyone wondering: Workshop: 'Trans, Gears & Diffs' in Thomastown. Prices all in AUD --DuckMan.

umm... Mine does NOT have the Interlock Switch... but starts without depressing the clutch. --DuckMan.

It kinda sucks, here in Melbourne Metro, Ambulance & Fire have gone to digital radio systems, & worst of all Police too have gone digital, but their system is encrypted. Impossible to scan. Even if you get the encryption key, as soon as you log the digital radio on to the communications system, it recognises that its not registered & 'stuns' the radio, so you have to take it back to your Motorola dealer... who will charge a fortune & ask questions... Having said that, my Philips PRM 8030 allows me to program my St. John Ambulance channels, so I dont need to borrow a radio when I go on duty. This PRM 8030 is for sale btw, $200. email no_pov@hotmail.com for more details --DuckMan.

I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for exactly, but try HERE or HERE. Ebay is legendary. --DuckMan.

x2 for this one, I did the same to my other car, a 1962 Wolseley 24/80. One by one, Gluing patches on the back & hand stiching. Then after polishing with some boot polish, looks lke new. --DuckMan.

I get the feeling the Duck Truck's Transmission is about to blow up the whining is so bad, I dont even use 5th gear anymore. So I spoke to my local Nissan dealer, spoke to one of the service guys, who is endlessly familiar with this problem. Since I dont have the $1600-$3500 for a rebuild, he suggested doing the oil 'overfill' as demonstrated in this thread. ...I'll get to the point eventually... Trying to find MT90 proved difficult, so called Nissan back & asked what oil they use for this transmission, they buy in bulk & its not specifically available to the public, but he suggested the following: Any 'Light Gear Oil', told me to look for Castrol VMX 80 (GL4, 75W85) At any Repco in Australia 4L is $43 & 1L is $12. Then add some friction modifier such as 'Lucas Slip-stop', $18.50 a bottle, once again, at any Repco in Australia. --DuckMan.

A while ago at Repco (Auto parts retailer) I found this a device that combined a Reversing sensor & speedometer directly to the ground, this links to a wireless display for the cabin, & it was about $120 AUD. It wouldn't look great, but it'd work! --DuckMan.

G'day all! So, I have issues... RECOVERY issues! So this is whats left of my front recovery hook. It was snapped before I bought it & here's what I have on the back of the DuckTruck. Its a Hayman Reese Towbar... that I never use. So, 1. Any suggestions where I can get a couple of recovery hooks for the front? 2. Is it suitable to swap the towball for a shackle to use for snatch recoveries? --DuckMan.