westslope

Yanking off the excess junk? Most folks in this forum are probably adding weight with their mods lol. Have you thought of removing the roof? I watched an interview on Business News Network (BNN) channel the other day where the guest suggested people only half the gasoline tank in order to keep the weight down. Sounds like a great idea for people who like to spend lots of time pulling into fuel stations and filling up. And who have lots of time on their hands.

Change interval? Oil change or spark plug change? teka: no hijack; the question is absolutely relevant given that the gap will likely spread larger than specification during that time period, and I thank Precise1 for his answer.

I dunno Alex, would you have answered the question for me? The plugs were de facto gapped at 0.042 to 0.044. I reset the gaps to 0.032. I noticed no difference in vehicle performance. None.

FSM= ?

Simon, That is what I would have thought. Mind you I just read through the wiki page on spark plugs and now I'm not so sure. Pasted: The gap adjustment can be fairly critical, and if it is maladjusted the engine may run badly, or not at all. A narrow gap may give too small and weak a spark to effectively ignite the fuel-air mixture, while a gap that is too wide might prevent a spark from firing at all. Either way, a spark which only intermittently fails to ignite the fuel-air mixture may not be noticeable directly, but will show up as a reduction in the engine's power and fuel efficiency. The main issues with spark plug gaps are: +narrow-gap risk: spark might be too weak/small to ignite fuel; +arrow-gap benefit: plug always fires on each cycle; +wide-gap risk: plug might not fire, or miss at high speeds; +wide-gap benefit: spark is strong for a clean burn. A properly gapped plug will be wide enough to burn hot, but not so wide that it skips or misses at high speeds, causing that cylinder to drag, or the engine to begin to rattle. Spark plug eroded: note the center electrode (dark bump) had been a cylindrical rod, and the top ground electrode (like a claw) formerly had square edges. As a plug ages, and the metal of both the tip and hook erode, the gap will tend to widen; therefore experienced mechanics often set the gap on new plugs at the engine manufacturer's minimum recommended gap, rather than in the center of the specified acceptable range, to ensure longer life between plug changes. On the other hand, since a larger gap gives a "hotter" or "fatter" spark and more reliable ignition of the fuel-air mixture, and since a new plug with sharp edges on the center electrode will spark more reliably than an older, eroded plug, experienced mechanics also realize that the maximum gap specified by the engine manufacturer is the largest which will spark reliably even with old plugs and will in fact be a bit narrower than necessary to ensure sparking with new plugs; therefore, it is possible to set the plugs to an extremely wide gap for more reliable ignition in high performance applications, at the cost of having to replace or re-gap the plugs much more frequently, as soon as the tip begins to erode.

Recently had a bit of work done on the vehicle (02 sensor, catalytic converter replacement; RHS exhaust manifold removed, machined, replaced with new gasket, studs, nuts and washers, valve cover tightened). The vehicle was running a little rough during acceleration at lower speeds so I replaced the distributor and decided to haul the NGK V-Power spark plugs (BKR6EY) for an inspection, cleaning and gap adjustment. The plugs were of good colour, not at all fouled up. The plugs should be gapped 0.032 inches. The plugs I took out had gaps that were between 0.042 and 0.044 inches. The plugs were put in about 80,000km ago and in theory should be good for another 20,000km. I cleaned the plugs with white gas and a wire brush. I also wiped down the wires and cleaned the plug clips. The vehicle still runs a little rough sometimes when accelerating from lower speeds. Something else is amiss.... In the meantime, how critical is the spark plug gap? I get the impression that some garages, gap them, install them and then don't bother looking at the plugs until 100,000km later.

There is a similar program here in sometimes smoggy "beautiful" British Columbia. Later models pollute less on a per distance basis. The provincial government will pay upto $2,500 to have the older vehicle scrapped. Details are available here: BC Scrap-it program. Cash can go to a new, less polluting vehicle or a bus pass or a bicycle. I ran the simulation to see what kind of rebate I would get if I sold the '93 pathfinder and bought a 2005 Xterra. $0.00. ---------------------------------------------------------- None of these feel-good program will have the same impact as high excise (green) taxes on diesel and gasoline. BTW, my caribou shoulders tell me that fuel prices should decline and stay low for the next few years thanks to a highly synchronized global recession. Now is probably a good time to buy gas-guzzling 4X4s. We thought hard about buying a recent-vintage Xterra last summer but figured that keeping the '93 pathfinder for a few more years would be the cost-effective solution. One of these days there will be a better selection of modern diesel-powered 4X4 SUVs to choose from.

OSR, The dude posted his problem all over the forum. Hence the SPAM. Fine by me. Netiquette does not apply. Please continue.

01mggt: Some free advice. Don't SPAM the fora.

If one is carefully cleaning the MAF sensor wire with alcohol, there is no need to let it dry over night as the alcohol should volatize almost immediately. 01mggt, I'm reading your difficulties with interest because you are doing many standard maintenance jobs that older pathfinder owners may wish to eventually perform. Procedural question: Shouldn't a person in 01mggt's position perform maintenance one step at a time and then immediately test run the vehicle? Example from a world I pretend to know better: If I'm writing complex mathematical equations (WinEdt/LaTex), I always right a couple of lines, and then preview the output to make sure there are no coding errors. If I write too many lines of code and I make a mistake such as a silly typo, then it becomes very complicated to figure out where the mistake is. The software reports errors but it is not 100% precise. Better to write a few lines of code, preview, write more lines of code, preview, etc.

orca4wd, Only the heat shields placed above the manifolds were removed. The oil pressure sensor sits below the manifold, close enough to the oil filter, that, if a person isn't careful, oil can leak on to the oil ps during oil filter removal. The heat shields on the exhaust pipes were left in place. (BTW, in passing, I asked the mechanic to check the oil ps. He did and concluded that it was dry, i.e., not leaking fresh oil.)

The right (passenger) side exhaust manifolds were leaking. I had them fixed at White Rock Muffler (White Rock, BC). So far I'm very happy with the work; on the way, I learned a few things. The vehicle is a '93 XE 5-spd. At the beginning of the decade, both exhaust manifolds were "done". In late 2007, a mechanic tighted the bolts for me. This week, the passenger-side manifold was removed, planed and then replaced with new gaskets and new studs and nuts with two washers each. Studs on the driver-side were tightened. The mechanic removes sheered studs by arc-welding on another stud that has a hexagonal head. He showed me how one of the studs on the driver-side was much larger than the others and cautioned that if the driver-side manifold failed, that repairs could lead to engine block troubles. What I fear is that mechanic who "did" the exhaust manifolds roughly 7 years ago broke off a stud and simply left it in there, hence the unusual length of the visible stud. The mechanic showed me studs that he claimed were the originals. So much for replacing all the studs a few years ago..... This mechanic advised that I leave the heat shields off to improve air circulation over the exhaust manifolds. Elsewhere, I understand the jury is still out on that modification. Currently, the heat shields are off both right and left manifolds. The engine seems to be slightly quieter and seems to accelerate more smoothly out of low speeds. Fuel economy should improve. Presumably there is less carbon monoxide getting into the cab but I suppose that is not a significant risk, otherwise we would have heard of somebody suing Nissan for CO poisoning by now. My advice. If you are going to hire a professional to have the exhaust manifolds 'done', shop hard, be prepared to pay more if in doubt. Worst comes to worst, go to a dealership and pay C$100+/hr. Do not be pound wise and penny foolish like I was a few years back. Dealerships have much more experience with exhaust manifolds than small shops with high turnover rates..... BTW, there is a disconnected ground strap connected to one of the right-side manifold heat-shield bolt holes. Does anybody have any idea of the original purpose of this ground strap?

Did you wash the engine? Any damp mud stuck in the wrong area could be shorting something.

PROBLEM SOLVED. This should be the final update. As it turned out the ignition immobilizer transponder on my wife's key chain had failed. (Why? Nobody knows.) It was replaced and reprogrammed by a technician last Thursday--free of charge--and now everything works as smooth as butter. The problem I experienced in diagnosing the problem is that I had payed insufficient attention to the blinking red light. Once the vehicle is started by a functional transponder (or by keying in the code), the immobilizer takes about a minute to reset. During that time, a transponder is not necessary to restart the vehicle. During this process, I noticed that the oil pressure sensor/switch might be leaking onto the starter. Will look into that. Thanks for the suggestions. Happy motoring. -westslope

Been reading and looking. Have checked the ground strap. Found this post summarizing the experience k9sar's father had. Here. Also found Precise1's entertaining post here. ==================================================== Dumb questions time. 1) What is the best way of getting at the solenoid and starter to check connections, etc.? I see it just below the oil filter and what I believe is the oil switch. Should I remove what I believe are the heat shields on the exhaust manifold? I can hardly my hand down there. I read that removing and replacing the starter is easier if the vehicle is 'lifted'. Mine ain't. 2) Is there a diagram that explicitly shows the relays? I don't see one in my Haynes manual or elsewhere. (The 1994 manual doesn't appear to have one.) I observe that the solenoid/starter complex is heavily soiled with oil and read that the oil pressure sensor can leak oil on to the starter, something that could, perhaps should be replaced next time I do an oil change.

Interesting k9sar. I tested our battery the other day and noticed that I wasn't getting the same voltage readings when I contacted the outside clamp on the positive post. Cleaned up the post and clamp. BTW, it looked fine as I thoroughly cleaned, scraped and emergy-clothed, then covered with vaseline last summer. Now I get full voltage readings from both the post and the clamp.

Update edited I thought that my Autowatch Immobilizer transponder worked and my wife's transponder does not work. WRONG. Back to the drawing board. Further testing suggests that both transponders "work".

I'll second the purchase of a volt-meter. I've been using a simple battery-operated voltmeter that is no bigger than a wallet for about 15 years now primarily for testing the deep cycle marine batteries I use to power an electric motor. Works equally well for getting a quick handle on the state of the battery. Multi-feature-laden trickle chargers are ideal for deep-cycle marine batteries (I run one in the pathfinder) and probably not a bad way to re-charge a regular battery. BTW marine deep-cycle 12v batteries have thicker walls which I presume are less vulnerable to the pounding that off-road travel can occasionally deliver. Handy for running the radio, CD player (on occasion), using the lights, etc. They cost more but they appear to last longer. Plenty of cranking amps for my engine. I retired one after about 6 years of use last summer. Prior to vehicle use, I powered the electric motor for a few seasons. I use Trojan. (The batteries you clowns. ) Pricier. Solid reputation and a great experience so far.

Thanks for the suggestions k9sar and 94Pathyman. Much appreciated. Makes good sense to test the current at the solenoid connection. Current => solenoid and/or starter is the problem. No current => ignition switch, relays or connections are the problem Off to soap and high-pressure hose the underside of the engine.....

I can start without touching the clutch and can turn over the starter when in gear......

KovemaN, Does a Clutch Switch prevent one from starting the vehicle when in gear? Either I don't have one or it is by-passed by an interlock switch. Don't recall the Haynes manual discussing this possibility. Elsewhere I read that jgt apparently replaced his Ignition Switch twice at less than 100K miles.

Decimal typo corrected. I just tried it only partially depressing the clutch. Started up without issue.

EDIT: This should be the final update. As it turned out the ignition immobilizer transponder on my wife's key chain had failed. (Why? Nobody knows.) It was replaced and reprogrammed by a technician last Thursday--free of charge--and now works as smooth as butter. The problem I experienced in diagnosing the problem is that I had payed insufficient attention to the blinking red light. Once the vehicle is started by a functional transponder (or keying in the code), the immobilizer takes about a minute to reset. During that time, a transponder is not necessary to restart the vehicle. During this process, I noticed that the oil pressure sensor/switch might be leaking onto the starter. Will look into that. Thanks for the suggestions. -Erik "The Red" ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The '93 manual-shift pathfinder starts fine when I start it. But my wife is not so lucky. LOL! Less amusing is the fact that I had to bicycle a few klicks north to a shopping centre where she was stranded with the pathie. All the electrically connected components work just fine. The battery measured 12.56 volts this morning. When the engine starts, it starts briskly. A Nissan dealership replaced the Ignition switch a couple of years ago. I undid the steering wheel cover and visually examined the switch. Looks fine to me. When these no-start episodes occur, I can immediately turn on everything (lights, signal lights, fan, radio/CD-player, emergency lights, etc. Otherwise the vehicle works just fine. Idles at 750 to 800 rpms. Accelerates smoothly. I don't hear any clicking so I doubt that the starter or celenoid is the problem I believe the problem is electric. Any suggestions for trouble-shooting or avoiding going through a bunch of expensive parts? The wife is NOT amused. Help me here.

Have you cleaned the air-intake throttle body with kleen-flo Air Intake Kleen (or similar)?

No mechanical and safety check prior to purchase? Canadians are such famous BSers, especially in the used goods markets. For the tire rack, duct tape wrapped around the horizontal bits and thick rubber glued to the rack to the immediate left of the pins will reduce movement and noise.