wheel366

I still have my issue with misfiring but I think it may be because my pathy was meant to pass emissions in CA and since I added the high flow CAT and headers that the ECU might not be able to provide enough fuel to compensate for more air running through. It could also be a leaky or faulty injector but the misfire is random, not in time. Also, it doesn't do it when I first start the truck. It takes about 20 - 30 seconds before it starts. Now that I am out of warranty I may (that's a big may because I am saving for a house) get new Jim Wolf cams and have the computer upgraded. I would need new lifters too so the price goes up about $400 just for them.

I'm using the powerslot cryo rotors on the front with Hawk SUV pads. They stop pretty damn well. I went with stock on the rear. They have been on for at least a year now with no problems. I had a little bit of a squeel about 6 months ago but that went away. Not a peep since.

I have the Borloa nad like the way it sounds. I think you are mistaken with the size though. The paper I got said it was 2.25 inches. I remember being surprised that it was not 2.5 or larger. However, I could be the one that is mistaken.

I have a problem with misfiring. It is similar to yours but not the same. I have no problems reving over 4k. Mine sputters when I first start it, a few seconds later it is perfect then give it a minute and I start getting the misfires. It doesn't affect drivability but it is anoying as @!*% and no-one can figure it out. I have had the problem since I got my new engine but I did a few mods when I got the engine. The old engine never ran with the headers so I am not sure if they are making it worse. I do know that when you introduce some gas (gas form, not liquid) into the air box it gets much better so I am getting to much air and not enough fuel. My guess is that the injectors are not supllying enough fuel. It could be that they are maxed out and the ECU can not compensate or I have problems with the injectors. Or maybe the fuel rail. When I got the new engine they did not test the injectors, they just inspected them. I have new O2 sensors already, a new CAT, etc... and I still continue to have the problem. It is to the point where I can not afford to put any more money into the vehicle at the moment. I do have some clunks that I need fixed but that is it.

Dude, I'm the most anal. I go 5k with Amsoil, use an Amsoil EaO filter which I change every oil change and use an Amsoil EaBP bypass filter that I change every other oil change. They are rated to 60K and I change it at 10.

Amsoil makes a filter for the pathfinder. EAO38 http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=EAO38-EA

I'm probably going to get them from summit. $99 each.

I just put Rancho 9000's on the front. They replaced the Calmini shocks that were corroded and had to be cut out. I can honestly say the ride is much softer now. Looking to do the rears soon.

Got my kit installed and new Rancho 9000s on the front. At first it drove the same but I took it to a different shop today and they said the steering stabilizer was hitting the idler arm and the idler arm was way to tight. They fixed that and realigned it. Drives better so far. The 9000s feel so much softer on the high way. I haven't played with the settings yet. I'm thinking about getting them for the rear. Did anybody see that Rancho has changed the part numbers on their 9000s? They added an extra 9 to the part number which is their new 9000XL. Different finish and thicker piston and body. To bad I didn't get those for the front. http://www.gorancho.com/products/shocks/rs...xl/rs9000xl.php

Anybody have the part number for the Rancho 5000's for the front? I may need new shocks. I seached through like 15 pages and can't find them.

Amsoil does have oil that is API certified. However, their extended mileage oil is not certified (25k, 35k, etc...). There was an article I was going to post but I can't find it. However, here is a link to people who are oil crazy. Everything from oil, to filters, to additives, etc... You will see that people can and are benefiting from the extended drain intervals and having great results with the amsoil EaO filters. This site isn't Amsoil specific. It has any and everything! http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php Enjoy!

That's all I use except for redline in the trans.

I haven't even thought about the price. As for welds, as soon as I get the other kit installed I'll take some pics for you. I was thinking maybe $1000 because I owned it first. J/K. Something fair of course. When I actually have time to think about it I'll let you know. My guess would be around $200 plus shipping but that is just throwing out a price.

I had to order new bushings so I go the whole steering kit too. Ever since I got that L&P steering kit, my truck has driven like sh!t. I'm hoping that this will resolve that problem. I am also having them do all the bushings front and back to make sure everything is as tight as possible. I understand it will never be like my S but anything has got to be better! While they are doing this, I am having them check the whole lift to make sure the idiot that installed it initially did it correctly. Calmini says that those bushing should have lasted more than 30k miles and that improper installation would cause them to fail. We'll see if that is indeed true. I will soon have for sale a full Stage 3 L&P steering kit minus the bronze bushings if anyone is interested. I'm sure it's fine but it did not work for me. In fact, it made my truck worse.

I have them. No adverse affects except that I get worse gas mileage but only by about 20 miles per tank. May not be a problemwith the plugs though.