Frankenfinder

Heres something i saw while i was working for my uncle in his transmission shop. We had a few fleet accounts and well construction workers are always messing with each other . This van came in leaking trans fluid every where. I put it on the lift and found 5 or so pennies duct taped to the drive shaft. The vibrations caused by this had busted the bell housing and broke the right side off of the engine block that the tranny bolted to. My uncle said theyd probably end up with some rear pinion problems as well. I am sure this would have some effect on cv shafts also. No harm in trying. Well no harm to you anyways. So 5 pennies = new engine block, tranny case , pinion bearing And @!*%loads of labor!

Thats a good one. even if he had the tool you have to pull the tires and debead the outside edge to shove the new stem in . Good thinkin!

No need to be rude , you are the first person who brought any usable info as to what may be wrong other than the guy who called it a pos , so we wont count him. Thats all i wanted was what this guy posted . But in fact it is not just frikkin selectable. That makes it sound like theres a switch . I looped the orange wire back together and now i have a normal blow up at 6450 pathy like everyone else here.

yeh but i'm old so your rambling doesn't affect me. It's not like i'm an 18 yr old newbie. Well any of you washington guys can see it for your self sometime. I will travel for a good run. That is as long as its off road and not some gravel road like the king county guys call 4 wheeling. Oh well let me go buy an imaginary selectable tachometer now . I do know that if anything is wrong with it, It is the fact that its last home was a yota and its used to being part of a failing team. haha Maybe tonight after work i can make a video from in the cab dogging the truck through the higher rpm's and put it on. If any one does have an old cluster laying around, i would like to buy a needle for my stock tach.

Indexing does more for race engines , but Ed (the old cool guy) says it does about the 1hp and does increase mileage. If i can find any more info on it ill post it.

New info --- Tach is fine , put it on another rig, it's dead on. So that means your pos 6450 rpm pathy sucks and mine has a cam and some mods i didn't know about. You shouldn't call peoples things crap . I wondered as i see a few guys saying the 3.0 is gutless and mine seams awesome. I have pal with access to a dyno set up. As soon as i can get some time off i'm gonna do it and ill post the print out. Mine does not rev limit. It may in neutral but i'm not gonna test it out. I beat the @!*% out of my wheelers so i'd know if it had it. Oh and fyi the monster tachs (and all others other than the old cable drives)run on a signal from the coil. It makes not a ******* of difference if it is a 4-6- or 8 . Just my two pennies back.

heres an easy one , its good for like 1 horspower and helps out on fuel mileage. When you change your spark plugs, make a mark on your extension. when you put your new plug in the socket align your firing contact with that mark. When you install the plug you want the open part of the spark plug facing the combustion chamber. This produces maximum efficiency between the spark , the fuel, and the air. Just an old timers trick i picked up from an engine builder of 50 years . I would say getting a pick of a 3.0 head would help you best on lining it up if you can't tell. I haven't touched my engine yet so i couldn't say exactly how to go on this.

Ill have to find a needle to put on my stock tach to find out i guess. My engine has been out before but im pretty sure it wasn't for upgrades. Most people who are into performance work wouldn't have left it so that i could tell it had been out before. At least one would think?

I have a 1990 pathfinder with the 3.0 . Factory tach says redline is 5500. every now and then when i'm off road i don't exactly get it shifted by then. I have a monster tach installed and I noticed that at 7000 rpm my motor is still pulling strong with no valve float. How high have you guys shifted at with no problems. It almost feels like the engine is in its best power range at 4000-7000 rpms. Or is it possible that my monster tach is off? MY factory tach has no needle( stole it for the speedo). Oh and as far as i know it has a stock cam in it. It wasn't done up when i got it. It was factory paint, yak rack and some nerf bars.

I put the 4.63's into my 5 speed pathfinder and i can barely run in 4th at 35mph . It will do it but there isn't much go-go-go dropping into 4th at that speed. I can run 5th gear with my 33's though whoo hoo! Downside being I redline on the freeway if i go to fast 80 mph or so .

Mine is yellow and black under all of the mud/snow mixture that is plastered too it. I don't mind the snow so much, It's the only time i can wheel and shine my tires at once.

First nissan . Oh well. Looks like a damn tuned port. Thanks for the info. Oh and nice colors haha.

Im up in Lynden , outside of bellingham. I will travel for good enough trips though. I wheel mostly tight treed spots up here. I would love a carnage free wheeling trip though. Im running low on bondo.

33x12.50x15 pro comp m/t's . Just a 3 inch body and some modification to the fender flares and air dam.

Hey guys im an avid wheeler and i know walker valley. I'd go with you guys no matter where you choose though. As long as i can get some help if i bust anything to bad. I am from bellingham area so id prefer not blow my engine or something and be that far away with no help and i wouldn't wanna bring my yota buddies to my first all nissan run. Walker has tight spots but you can get around em if you be careful. Im no tree hugger so wackin trees to save a fender is more than reasonable to me. Reiter i hear has whatever you want hard , not hard, street rig crap , rock crawler crap etc. Walker is rocks, trees and mud, dnr managed so its enviromentally safe. Reiter is heavily wheeled by the multiples of scrotum lacking hosers from nw whiners . If you start whacking trees or blazing trails or your axles are full size expect to have to defend your wheeling morals against the tree huggers. This is a politically overun area . They fight over the name reiter pit that it isnt a pit and they shouldnt call it that because it is dumpy sounding. Its a rock pit. Anyway im up for it as long asyou guys dont require i give two sharts about dnr or land laws and what not

throttle positioning sensor is on the throttle body A lot of erratic idle problems and sputters can be solved there.

i can show you them when you come up here otherwise they are to big to upload i could email them shoot your address to me

Mounting that winch sucked. someone at nissan wasn't thinking about winches when they designed the front of the frame. It points down at a slight angle and it is recessed behind the core support. It looked impossible as i didn't have a pipe bender or money left after the $1200 winch and gear to buy a bumper. I welded a piece of 2 inch square stock into the front of the frame after i beat it in there with a sledge hammer (make sure you get a big one)lol. I welded it all the way across the top and bottom. I then 45'd both ends of some 12 inch or so pieces of schedule 80 pipe. i welde the bottom of my winch plate to it and then it to the square stock. Once i finish cage it the tube will tie it in to the top of the frame right behind the stock bumper where the small holes are. And yes that is a stock bumper with 20 inches cut out of it and then bolted back on. It holds up good. barely flexes 1/16 of an inch under full load.

I used to be on the toyota bandwagon until i had a straight years worth of mechanical nightmares. I have had my pathfinder for a year now and would never wheel anything else again. Ive been under water , at 3000 feet in 54" of snow, on off road trails in 3 feet of snow with no other tire tracks to be seen anymore. This is coming from a guy who's last rig had 5.29's arbs, 4 link rear, hy steer, double t-cases, front and rear winches, 37 inch boggers , all pro axle forward and fully caged . I would never own one of those pos's again. I was always breaking stuff and wasting my money. My pathy has been everywhere that my yota ever went. You could however do what i did to my k5 ......... Throw the body away, weld the spiders and put an import cab on it. That truck would climb trees. I called it the mazer (or the blazda when it broke) .

Hey , new guy here from Lynden ,Washington . I am just starting out with my Nissan but so far its the first wheeler i haven't had to struggle to keep running. I keep beating her and she keeps on going! I have kids now so i threw away my Cursed Toyota and i bought a 1990 wd21 4 door. It came with the 4.37 gears , 5 speed, tpi 3.0, and cheap nerf bars. After I bent the rock bars in half i started working on beefing it up. I bought a parts rig as the trees are pretty tight up here in whatcom county. I figured the spare panels and engine would be handy. I took the 4.63's out of the automatic parts rig (an 88) i had to adapt the front casing (installed my inner axles so my cv's would bolt up), i changed out the whole rear as it was disc brake with the factory lsd . Next i cut the sway bar off the rear and i installed 14 " tuff country rear shocks and xj coils. I did a 3 inch body from performance accessories and then i bought some 33x12.50x15 pro comp m/t's on pro comp 51 crawlers. I built rock sliders similar to the old all pro's out of schedule 80 1 1'2 " pipe . I also built a rear bumper. I installed T-maxx's 9000lb crawler series winch with synthetic rope and wireless control . All of this complimented by cruise control , infinity audio and air conditioning makes this the best wheeler i have ever had. I have to work a little harder to get it over tough obstacles but hey it sure is roomy and the rear will drop the tires 3 inches below the rocker panel. Any one who wants to wheel and lives in the northwest hit me up.