Frankenfinder

If you can have 5 little pictures, I would think i can just have one big one. Just push your screen away when you scroll past my posts

Oh and hey if you want more pics go to my link in my sig. It has the entire build on it and some video's.

No blazer parts on it.

I was just thinking about PSYCHOPATHY. I can be a bit over the edge at times and the truck looks crazy so why not? I just never liked it because i only used two rigs to build it. My mazer had parts from 10 or more vehicles on it.

Oh that's because that picture was taken in Texas. Everythings bigger down there. JK . I dont't know why its so big, I think that was a crappy cell phone i took it with?

Hopefully Rolling wont be to much of an issue once i get the body lift out and install the suspension winches My main goal for now is running and driving on her own. Well running is not an issue. i just have to build an engine. Ive ran her before on first try. No wiring issues or cooling problems. Managed to suck down a gallon of gas during test and tune.

Yeah but nothing on it is from a blazer. That would be good though if it was K5 parts.

Okay so years ago i put a Mazda B2000 cab onto a K5 Blazer chassis. We all called it the Mazer on a good day and Blazda on the bad ones. Here are the words to work with: Nissan Pathfinder or Pathy Chevrolet or Chevy Silverado ( I think this was the trim package on the donor, correct me if I am wrong.) Ok have at it because I am stumped. Insults are welcomed also

No need to worry about hurting the carrier bearing. There isn't one on it. At least I've never seen one with it. A carrier bearing is usually found on a two piece drive line on longer wheel base vehicles Like Some long bed pickups, extra cabs, 4 door trucks etc. Ive had my rear stretched pretty far and never gotten so much as a wimper out of a u joint or any drive line related parts so you should be fine lifting it a reasonable amount without modding it. I think if you got too high the first mod would be the slip yoke eliminator to keep the rear drive line from falling out but you'd have to be up there a ways for that.

Sorry! I was just going on info learned from here.

IF you are going to wheel it..... I had an 87 and i drive a 90 . I stripped the 87 for parts. The autos have 4.63 gear ratio and the mans are only 4.37 . I swapped the front and rear into mine . The only thing i had to change was the inner axles on the front so my cv's would bolt up. You shouldn't have to since yours is a 89. Now i have a lowered geared rig that is pretty trail capable on rocks an such .

Heres something i saw while i was working for my uncle in his transmission shop. We had a few fleet accounts and well construction workers are always messing with each other . This van came in leaking trans fluid every where. I put it on the lift and found 5 or so pennies duct taped to the drive shaft. The vibrations caused by this had busted the bell housing and broke the right side off of the engine block that the tranny bolted to. My uncle said theyd probably end up with some rear pinion problems as well. I am sure this would have some effect on cv shafts also. No harm in trying. Well no harm to you anyways. So 5 pennies = new engine block, tranny case , pinion bearing And @!*%loads of labor!

Thats a good one. even if he had the tool you have to pull the tires and debead the outside edge to shove the new stem in . Good thinkin!

No need to be rude , you are the first person who brought any usable info as to what may be wrong other than the guy who called it a pos , so we wont count him. Thats all i wanted was what this guy posted . But in fact it is not just frikkin selectable. That makes it sound like theres a switch . I looped the orange wire back together and now i have a normal blow up at 6450 pathy like everyone else here.

yeh but i'm old so your rambling doesn't affect me. It's not like i'm an 18 yr old newbie. Well any of you washington guys can see it for your self sometime. I will travel for a good run. That is as long as its off road and not some gravel road like the king county guys call 4 wheeling. Oh well let me go buy an imaginary selectable tachometer now . I do know that if anything is wrong with it, It is the fact that its last home was a yota and its used to being part of a failing team. haha Maybe tonight after work i can make a video from in the cab dogging the truck through the higher rpm's and put it on. If any one does have an old cluster laying around, i would like to buy a needle for my stock tach.

Indexing does more for race engines , but Ed (the old cool guy) says it does about the 1hp and does increase mileage. If i can find any more info on it ill post it.

New info --- Tach is fine , put it on another rig, it's dead on. So that means your pos 6450 rpm pathy sucks and mine has a cam and some mods i didn't know about. You shouldn't call peoples things crap . I wondered as i see a few guys saying the 3.0 is gutless and mine seams awesome. I have pal with access to a dyno set up. As soon as i can get some time off i'm gonna do it and ill post the print out. Mine does not rev limit. It may in neutral but i'm not gonna test it out. I beat the @!*% out of my wheelers so i'd know if it had it. Oh and fyi the monster tachs (and all others other than the old cable drives)run on a signal from the coil. It makes not a ******* of difference if it is a 4-6- or 8 . Just my two pennies back.

heres an easy one , its good for like 1 horspower and helps out on fuel mileage. When you change your spark plugs, make a mark on your extension. when you put your new plug in the socket align your firing contact with that mark. When you install the plug you want the open part of the spark plug facing the combustion chamber. This produces maximum efficiency between the spark , the fuel, and the air. Just an old timers trick i picked up from an engine builder of 50 years . I would say getting a pick of a 3.0 head would help you best on lining it up if you can't tell. I haven't touched my engine yet so i couldn't say exactly how to go on this.

Ill have to find a needle to put on my stock tach to find out i guess. My engine has been out before but im pretty sure it wasn't for upgrades. Most people who are into performance work wouldn't have left it so that i could tell it had been out before. At least one would think?

I have a 1990 pathfinder with the 3.0 . Factory tach says redline is 5500. every now and then when i'm off road i don't exactly get it shifted by then. I have a monster tach installed and I noticed that at 7000 rpm my motor is still pulling strong with no valve float. How high have you guys shifted at with no problems. It almost feels like the engine is in its best power range at 4000-7000 rpms. Or is it possible that my monster tach is off? MY factory tach has no needle( stole it for the speedo). Oh and as far as i know it has a stock cam in it. It wasn't done up when i got it. It was factory paint, yak rack and some nerf bars.

I put the 4.63's into my 5 speed pathfinder and i can barely run in 4th at 35mph . It will do it but there isn't much go-go-go dropping into 4th at that speed. I can run 5th gear with my 33's though whoo hoo! Downside being I redline on the freeway if i go to fast 80 mph or so .

Mine is yellow and black under all of the mud/snow mixture that is plastered too it. I don't mind the snow so much, It's the only time i can wheel and shine my tires at once.

33x12.50x15 pro comp m/t's . Just a 3 inch body and some modification to the fender flares and air dam.

throttle positioning sensor is on the throttle body A lot of erratic idle problems and sputters can be solved there.