Coucoui6
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Posts posted by Coucoui6
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Ok im still kind of a newb to the pathfinder so idk if i should have known this wasnt going to work but here is my problem. Yesterday I was at a junk yard and saw a pathfinder with good wheels and brush guard on it. So i asked the guy at the desk how muc he wanted an it was only 150 for tires and 20 for the brush guard. The brush guard needs to be painted it has a little rust but thats an easy fix. What i am having trouble with is it came over of a 94 or 95 because I have a 93 and the dash looked like the newer ones but everything else looked the same as my pathfijnder besides the dash. The one at the junkyard was a xe and I have a se. Well anyways when i got the brush guard back home and was looking at how it going on there it is no where close to fitting. The spot where the two big bolts go on the bottom when the brush guard is pressed all the way up against the bumper they are still no where close to lining up and where those bolts care supposed to go into the holes on the pathfinder it seems like the brush guard is a few inches to wide. Also the little clips that look like they clip onto something in the grill dont even fit through the grill. So what im getting at is the 94-95 body stype that different that the brush guard doesnt fit. I looked at the side it seems to be a grizzly brush guard if that helps.
it looks just like this brush guard i think its the stock one
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n131/Ca...Metl/brush2.jpg
Thanks for the help let me know what you guys think!
bro... your paragraph was very difficult to read. i believe that the 93 pathy is the same as the 94-95 pathy. is your bush guard bent slightly? regardless, i am sure a little modification will go along way to help your fitment issue.
hope that helps.
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The set on my 93 are made from 2" square tube. They are attached to the frame by 3 "legs" that have a plate that is welded to the frame. Mine are kind of tight in, but can be used as a step, I have thought about adding a short second piece of tube under each door for a step point, but never did it.
thanks for the picture... so how far does your tube stick out beyond the doors?
thanks again.
coucoui 6
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here is an update to my current situation... i have a patient that is a contractor and owns a welder ... he is willing to build me some simple but effective sliders with 2" square tubing. i think will have it extend out far enough to be a step rail as well. i think i want only one long 5' square tube with four legs to attach to the frame. i think i will have the rail about 2" to 3" beyond the cab for a foot hold.
looking for opinions .... do anyone have comments on the length i want the rail to stick out for the step? and i think a 2" square tubing would look better?"
thanks,
coucoui 6
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here is the my totally cheap way to put 31" tires. i cranked up my torsion bars and 1/2" ball joint spacer. and used 2" rubber spacer tabs on the rear. i also re-enforced my rubber spacers with 6" metal hose clamp. now i have cheap stock replacement shock on the front and rear. so to prevent rear sag during towing... i use re-enforcement springs on my rear shocks. ie. homemade coil overs. i also don't have any alignment issues. but my steering components are worn out. i think i will install a steering dampener
thanks.
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Email sent...
thanks the info was more detailed than my manual.
thanks again.
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okay .... i found another shop to custom make a slide rail for me for $400.00 on both sides. here is my problem. he only want to use one 1.75" steel tubing to run the length of the cab and matching size tube to weld to the frame. to the frame he will use 4 legs to secure the hold. that is good to increase strength.
but will the 1.75" tubing might look funny or is a good enough? i know that steel tubing is very strong. not very sure if that is a good deal? my previous shop just flat quoted me a higher price this time? he was thinking about the cost of newer and nicer jeep or domestic truck, aftermarket part, prices as a comparison.
so i know that 4x4parts.com has a slide rail for about that price but i would still have to pay for shipping and for someone to weld it on.
thanks for your input.
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Yep you're right missed that one completely both times I read it...thats to do the outer seal...the inner seal you need a special tool to remove the bearing locknut and bend back the 4 tabs
http://www.megafileupload.com/en/file/6365...r-Axle-pdf.html you have to wait 30 secs to download after opening the link but it should work fine...the website I usually use for free uploads that doesnt ahve all that BS is down right now...but yea that will tell you everything
i don't get how to download the file.... i was on the site and waited 30 sec. the download button came up and i pushed it but now what. now save or open window came up... i've even registered for the free membership. if you have the file can you email it to me?
thanks,
drsamho@roadrunner.com
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yes the inner seal retains the rear gear oil. i was hoping to find a write up ... my manual from autozone is okay at best. personal write ups are much better with more details.
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i want to replace my passenger rear internal hub seal? its leaking oil and i would like to read a write up and review all that i need.
thanks,
coucoui 6
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your own fabrication looks awesome... too bad i cant do it.
can't weld nor do i own a welder.
but i can look for a shop to do the same.
thanks,
coucoui 6
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okay... i would like to have a step rail and some side protection and ofcourse at a modest price? anyone? ofcourse the side rail must be strong so it will not just fly off or bend in the middle at the first sight of a 4x4 trail. i do get caught in the middle of my frame on tight trails and my wheels are in the air.
if i can find one i get i will start making calls for a custom job with 3" or 2" pipes.
thanks.
coucoui 6
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i want to go also...
if its planned early enough, i can schedule it.
dont have alot of safety or recovery equipment so i will need to stay on the easy stuff.
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thanks for the help. i broke both front cv shaft over the weekend. tore both outer boots and drivers side inner. i never had the bump stops on the chassie. i lifted my pathy about 1/4" from touching the "bump stop feeler" on the uca. my cv angel is crazy. should have known my fault. im going buy some bump stops for the upper arms and drop it a bit. hope that works.
what were you doing to break the cv shaft? did your cv joint break off also or just he shaft? my cv joint make alittle noise but i'm too cheap to replace them. i still need to do alot of other things first. ie. right rear hub leaks.
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If anyone needs custom tube work done (bumpers) and you're in So Cal Check out Yota Masters in Corona. tell them I sent you there... they're awesome.
I originaly thought Coucoui6 was looking for something specifically off the shelf...sorry man.
I wanna get a So. Cal Big Bear run together as well.... so ya'll betta not go w/o me
[[checks so cal section for proposed trail runs]]
put me on the big bear run list.... i've been waiting to go with a group.... a pathy group.
thanks,
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ah, i see it now......... yeah, that's a bit narrow isn't it...........
do you have a picture of your front bumper from underneath view?
thanks.
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wow.... that is the prettiest bumper i've seen for pathy's
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best mpg for pathfinder is not to drive it....
consumer reports voted it to be back back in the days but reliability very very good.
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i got my pathy used and it was from the mid west...ohio originally but ...i just used some flat black spray can and called it a day. i've had my pathy for the last 5 yrs ... just add alittle more pathy and go on.
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hope this works... my pictures posting.
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if i am getting a visual of what you are talking about correct, no, you don't need a skid plate all the way across. some prefer it, but it is not crucial to your pathy's survival. if oyu plan on betaing it up THAT BAD. you may wanna think about SAS anyway....
did he leave room on the skid plate for you to remove the oil drain plug?
oh yeah, i forgot the part about..... your tires need to turn......
the skid plate does not extent down that far. it is only to the frame rails. so about a foot in height from the bumper to the frame rails. i can still take the original protective plate off so it does not cover my drain plug. and i still have full turn of my wheels.
and your right i'm dont go offroad that hard. i just didn't want to damage my body mount and body alignment anymore that what i've already done. and i did that (body damage) with my old bumper. boy did i come close to damaging my AC radiator. ofcourse.... that could have also lead to my radiator damage too.
so i guess my original intent is accomplished.
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sorry, i'm trying to get some pictures on this tread but not successful. i shot the pixs on my camera's lowest settings but still ..... i don't get it.
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hey guys,
i know that replacing the cv boot is the best option... but this is what i did and it has worked for me thus far.
i use a split cv boot and zip tight every smaller circle of the boot. yes, this is my 2nd replacement passenger side, my original split boot ripped from the little screw tabs. but since it did it this way, both outer boot is doing just fine. food for thought.
coucoui6
sorry having difficult time getting the picture on this forum.
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Okay .... here is an update ..;.. sorry, i'm at work so no pictures to post, but my new bumper is super strong and ugly. very square with strong angles. my skid plate is also about 3/16" steel at is welded from the bottom of my bumper to the frame rails.
i do have one consern. the body mounts are exposed and unprotected ... i know ... in factoy form, it was only covered by a thin piece of metal before and for looks only. but now i'm concerned that i may hit it. my new skid plate is only the width of the frame rails on each side of the pathfinder.
do you guys think i need to cover it up with some steel for protection?
thanks,
coucoui 6
ps i will post pictures later after i get home.
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I really want to thank everyone who posted their experience on this thread... its not very fun playing with a car that no one is interested in or to perserve it. now.... my other two hobbies are my miata and bmw M3... the forums are huge with all types of enthusiest.
as for my pathfinder... i dont care to make it pretty just functionally strong. so far me and my little brother have a small competition. 4x4 competition. he lives in las vegas and i live in temecula. so we don't get to go off road very often but when we do. it great fun! all the trash talking begins... as a little boy ... my bro and i used to trash talk with our bmx bikes.... then in college it was mountain bikes... and now its 4x4's or $x$'s.
my brother has a 98 toyota 4runner that has 3" suspension lift, rancho shocks, and big 265/70/16 BFG tires. on my last encounter, i only had a 2" cheap lift and crappy 30" tires. but i totally out climb him. i was going up small atv trails that he was getting stuck and loosing wheel traction.
so now i'm getting really for the next event. i have better (newer) 31" tires with abit more lift (1/2" upper control arm spacer, re-indexed torsion bars) and with my new bumper better approach and decent angle.
thanks,
coucoui 6
rear swaybar disconnect?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
okay, i know if you disconnect one side is all you need? but disconnecting both sway bar links is the best. it will release the rear axle even more. but here is my question?
if you disconnect both swaybar links at the beginning of a trail, will that cause your swaybar to hang down to the point of caution? ie. hitting a rock with the swaybar at the link attachment point?