Coucoui6
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Posts posted by Coucoui6
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I had a klunking noise about 3 weeks ago...its turns out it was the shock bushings...check those.
my shocks are only about a year old. so i know their still good.... thanks.
update. my exhaust remedy did not fix the clunk..... i think its a bushing to the top control arms now.
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okay... last night i had a change to fix my sagging exhaust with a new 7" hose clamp and some smaller ones. the 7" was able to loop around my rear frame and a mid section pipe. now my exhaust is not going to be an issue anymore. but was that the true cause of my clunking should... not sure.
since i was down there...i use a large flat head screwdriver and attempted to inspect the upper trail arm (control arm) that is attached to the top of the rear axl. i was able to shift the arm quite a bit more on the bushing to the frame. so maybe i will need to change that also.
i do know that my panhard rod is okay... i took that off just 2 wks ago and the bushing was fine.
thanks
coucoui 6
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my first guess would be the upper or lower control arm bushings, but you have to disconnect them to inspect....it can be hard to tell with them in place. if a bushing gets a split in it....it can sometimes work fine, and sometimes "klunk" as it will if enough load is put on it. On my 90, when they went bad, just looking at them they looked fine, but once unbolted so you could see the entire bushing....it was obvious they were blown apart from age and dryrot.
you may have a good point... i will take a closer look after double checking my exhaust out.
thanks.
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Spare tire carrier?
i dont think and extra passenger or load will effect the clunk if the carrier is the cause. wouldn't it just clunk all the time.????
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Could be knocking your bump stops maybe?
i dont have the greatest suspension but i dont think i'm bottoming out. i have a 2-3" suspension lift in the rear.
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glad to be in socal where there's not salt and snow on the ground!!! but i know the beach can also rust out a car but not that bad.
with that said ... i do have some rust, because my pathy was from ohio.
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I would say one of the muffler/exhaust hangers is busted.
i do have and after market cat back exhaust done by a muffler shop. i was looking at that yesterday after i posted my tread. i thought the top hump of the rear sway can hit a pipe.
i did not see any obvious metal rubbing marks but i will recruit my wife to help bound on the rear of the pathy to see it its a possibility...
now some of my exhaust hangers are broken. i've use small hose clamps to hold the tail pipe up in place. i may need to re inspect it. or use some more support.
thanks.
coucoui6
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i have a strange clunking sound in the rear of my pathy for sometimes now. the sound only happends went i've had 2 adult people or my car is a bit on the loaded side. i cant seem to find it. i looked at all the suspension parts and every think looks good. nothing is loose... the sound is comming from the center rear. it would clunk every time my path go over a speed bump. it really sounds like its coming from the rear diff area.
i know this is a pretty hard question to give an answere.
thanks,
coucoui 6
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here is my solution too finding a small leak on an old motor. i first do a good pressure wash with alot to decreaser cleaner. then everything looks good and the leaks are easier to find.
my 2 cent.
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never mind... i flipped the bushing around and just tightened the nut until it stopped.
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okay .... this install is very straight fwd. just unbolt all the attached locations and put on the new bushing and re-install. but here is my question?
how tight should i turn the 1" nut at the end of the bushing? if i tighten the nut on the compression rod to the point that the washers touch the metal bushing sleeve then the new urethane bushings look very compressed ie. the rubber is bulging out of the sides.
so should i back it off so the bushing is just slightly compressed, half way compressed or all the way with bulges? see if it is all the way then i know that the washers will be touching the metal sleeve and prevents any unwanted shifing... and i know that is the goal for sports cars but what about my pathy?
now for sure? any experience would help... thanks
coucoui 6
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yes, i hope you enjoy your experience. i joined the army back in 1990. i was just a kid back then. the experience made me better man and stronger person. i was in the army for a total of 14 yrs. i started out an PVT/E-0 and ended my military life CPT/ O-3. i almost skipped college because,i loved the army life so much. but before i joined i did promise my mom that i would finish college. so after basic and AIT, i became a man of my word so i started school.
you will not be the same after the ARMY... it will change you forever. you will either be a better person or NOT! but you will not be the same. the army training will magnify what it is inside of you. like i said, for me ... it was great and i became more and better. but i have some buddies that was not so luck. the army was a big waste of their time. if you ask them ... they may reply that "overall I'm glad I did it". and thats that.
"i'm glad i did it" how can such a profound experience lead to such a bland statement. for me... I lived the commercial dream of the 90's. i learned several new trades, travel the world and US, met alot of great people and also suffered my share of BS. but i would not hesitate to do it all over again. i just wish i was able to stay in until my 20 yr letter for retirement. but life changes and i changed my goals with time. so i got out and resigned my commission.
good luck to you! i wish you the best. the army will make you strong but you will make the army stronger.
Coucoui 6.
(my call sign, as an armor company commander)
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it will make very little difference removing the front. may as well just leave it there.
looking closely at one of your flex pictures on another tread is what prompt my question. i noticed that the rear was flex out to the max and then i was very surprised to see the front sways still on. WOW.
i thought maybe i should just leave my front alone even on a trail.
thanks for the input.
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okay... i guess... the detroit complete assembly it is!
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okay.... i know the lock right is for open diff but can i change my LSD so i can use the lock right or am i suck using the complete detroit locker assembly? 4x4parts.com sell the lock right for 279.00 and the detroit assembly for 595.00?
maybe, i should just stick with the LSD and stay out of the big boys sand box.
This line of questioning, shows that i've never worked on a diff. before. but i am very handy and fast learner with cars. and i can read a manual!
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okay... after all the search on this forum... i've decided to go a head and remove my rear sways for more flexing. but in the past i've usually disconnected my front for off road trips but since my front is only a stock IFS, with the t-bars cranked for lift, will removing the front sways be of true benefit like the rears?
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i have a 95 pathy... xe-v6. manual tranny. need more tractions! would like to add lockers to my rear. thanks.
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AC sells the bushings. If you call them, they also have the tension rod.
https://www.4x4parts.com/catalog/product_in...roducts_id=4129
dude ... thanks for the link.
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1. Don't get the stock tension rod bushings. Get the polyurethane ones from Energy Suspension.
2. What do you mean by the dealers not being able to help you order the part? It's still a standard item. It has to be sent in from the Nissan warehouses, but they still have plenty.
If your dealers just suck, call Nissan Corporate and complain, then go to www.courtesyparts.com and get yourself some tension rods.
i'm trying to find the compression rod or tension rod polyurethane bushings now.... i am having a tuff time on the web. is there an other name under energy suspension or a part number?
thanks?
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i got stock replacements and there falling apart now and its have not been 1 year yet.
don't get stock oem bushings for this part.
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yozsi... your pictures are awesome... great reasons to take off the sways and toss them!
mike vancein... cant wait to see what you did?
i do most of my driving on the road and i do perfer a to keep it the way it feels now on the road. see my other cars are all modified sports cars. 1. dinan supercharged M3 2. modified miata for autocross.
so i want to be able to have best of both world situations.
thanks.
coucoui 6
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kiwipete, you have some very nice pictures ... i like your rear end flexing...
do you have a picture underneath so i can see how you tucked your rear swaybar out of the way?
i really would like for my rear to flex alot more. i guess i just need to get the quick disconnect linkage from 4x4parts.com or buy some stock ones so i can take the links on or off. like i stated earlier... my current stock ones are rusted on by the top bolt. and i've already stripped out trying to remove it. next thing to do is cut it out.
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amen. then, you too could have an ass like this.......... (i actually broke 1 side of mine before removing the whole thing)
i want a kick ass ... ass like your picture, but i really want my sway bars for road driving. even going to the trails i have to get there by hwy.
i like your picture.
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also the obvious process is to try it? but my end link nuts are rusted on and i've stripped them trying to remove it. i need to cut them off next and get a new end link.
so i don't know the answer to my question.
okay, i have alittle mystery with my car?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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i wonder if my rear clunking is from the control arm/ trail arm bushings... how much damage would i do if i just left them broken? i must say the clunking is pretty annoying!!!