Coucoui6
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Posts posted by Coucoui6
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I think SteevO may have some over at ruggedrocksoffroad.com...I know at Calico he was talking to me about some...Great guy and pretty reasonable on prices and really reasonable on shipping and good communication
i second that opinion. steve has great service.
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FYI i'm going to save up for the rear mechanical locker. thanks for all the input.
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has anyone experienced using the front diff drop bushing? is it really helpful? its only .5" drop. is that enough?
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okay... i'm going to rethink this if its illegal. hummmm but thanks for the instuctions.
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okay...my stock inner tie rod ends are toast. i did a search and heim joints came up but no instructional posting for this modification. any suggestions as to how well it works over OEM or what size heim joints i need?
or any other mods to improve the strength.
thanks.
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Wasn't Energy Suspension going to make diff drop bushings for Nissans? Was it Steve at Rugged Rocks that had them? I forget.
i just spoke to steve at rugged rocks yesterday... he just told me to forget about the upper control arms. the result would not be what i was looking for over my current set up.
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just put the control arms on and don't crank the torsion bars too much. leave an inch between the UCA and the upper bumpstop and you should be fine. most people wreck cv's because they don't replace torn boots
i understand not cranking up the T bars and leaving 1" gap... with those safety measures in place, is it still worth getting the UCA? am i going to get a noticable gain from my current setup? i hate to do all that work if its only just .5- .75" gain from now.
my curiousity started by reading AC's site about their UCA gaining a full 3" over stock. i think i have 1.5-2" gain over stock now with my stock t-bars cranked up and .5" ball joint spacers. i also have .5" gap from my bumpstop.
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you can install diff drop bushings to lower your diff slightly and thus reduce some of that angle. the diff will still be out of harms way after the bushings are installed.
i've never seen that bushing for sale for our trucks...
i will do a search...
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Careful about raising front end too much; my install did same thing at first, when I tried to level it out ,the front axels were cranked too high . The CV angles were so acute that I started getting problems with them. I called Calmini and they said that a good rule of thumb is to have no more then 1" space between upper control arm and its' upper bump [stock] stop. Anymore then this and you risk damaging CV joints. Over time the lift has leveled out some, probably because the rear springs have compressed a little. Anyway, it's all good because when I load up the rear end with gear the extra weight levels it out just about perfectly. Good luck -glenn
that is my consideration now as i'm wonder if i should get the UCA from 4x4parts.com
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okay...
i was just chating with my certified mechanic buddy.... and he know me truck pretty well. he mentioned that i may not want to lift my front too much than what i have now because of the stress on my weak CV joint. the additional angle may break it. now, his is not a nissan guy but rather a toyota guy. and that was his advice from a toyota IFS point of view.
he was suggesting that i can only get another 1" max on new UCA. so what do you guys think....
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a body lift and bigger tires will net you more ground clearance
yes... but will 33" change my stock gearing ratio... i think yes...i like the gearing now (not the best but works just fine for me)... i don't want to loose any more torque on the 4low.
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i searched last night and did not find much opinon on this topic. i have my T bars cranked up with a 1/2" ball joint spacer for alignment. i just got back from the huge San Diego's 47th Desert Safari run, and i 've decided to lift my front more and do rear locker.
so i need help. the AC upper control arms are going for $205.00 are they worth the money? ps... i also have some homemade coilovers on my front shocks for increase spring rate. i like the ride comfort. i just want more ground clearence.
thanks.
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i got my urethane bushing from 4x4parts.com...
i replaced the upper and lower trail arm bushings for the rear.
big difference on the highway. much more stable
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Cheapest is to weld it solid....
Next cheapest would be to buy an open diff for the rear (junk yard, classifieds/ part out on here) then install a lock right in that. Probably looking at under $400 depending. I have known a few people who made a deal with another to swap LSD for open straight across.
Edit to add, unless you like to replace CV axels for fun, leave the front open. The rear is strong enough to take full lock and LSD lock up, front, not so much.
welding it... uhmm. i never thought of that before. but how would that feel driving on the road and around town?
the inside and outside wheel would be in conflict? right?
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yes, i have a rear lsd... that is why i asked this very question... i too have been high centered at times. also the cheapest rear locker for LSD is a detroit locker and 4x4parts.com has them... and its not that cheap. about 600 bones.
R200A Limited Slip Differential 1987-1995 Pathfinder & 1986.5-1995 Hardbody R200A Front differential V-6 only $650.00USD
Complete Detroit Locker Assembly All Nissan's With H233B, 31 Spline Axle $595.00USD
i wish i can use the lock right but according to the 4x4parts.com site it is for open diff.
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I'm thinking about doing a little modification.... so i thought i would ask this question? i feel the rear lockers would be the better bet but since i don't know ...i ask.
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mr. pickles... my relo kit from summit looks just like yours... i'm using a fram filter that i ordered from summit with my kit. i will take pictures and post it soon. i mounted the relo filter on the same braket as the fuel filter. the fram filter is twice the size of my oem filter.
i did try to go though the wheel well, but its tight because i don't have a body lift. i would just like to do another 1/4 turn on the relocation adapter.. but it's so tight. unable to use a screwdriver. any small stick is unable to provide me the leverage to turn it more. i try again...
i just hope the oil drops that i saw on the ground is from unwiped oil doing this change.
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Okay... i decided to do the relocation kit after the installation of my pacesetter headers. it was difficult to get the oem filter off... i just did not have much room at all... i used the same filter wrench, filter socket, bare hands... it was very difficult. but i finally did it.
because it was so hard to take the oem filter off.... i also had a difficult time screwing on the adapter for the filter relocation. i eventually made progress.
now i used the summit racing kit... it was the cheapest $$$. i did install the correct tread adapter on the oil filter adapter and oil lubed the rubber ring washer before hand screwing the filter adapter on. because it was soo tightly spaced against the headers, i was only able to hand screw it on. i was not able to use any tools to tighten it more.
now i recently noticed some oil dripping on my driveway... not bad but still there. i think it may be unwiped oil from underneath my motor. but.... i remember my modified civic would leak with my motor oil cooler kit. it leaked just under the filter adapter.
so any one experience with the summit racing oil relocation kit leaking from anywhere on the adapter? i double check today and did not see anything, but i did feel oil under the oem filter location. but not sure if it is the extra oil from the originally oil filter being taken off.
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i just got my new magnaflow cat put on... just yesterday. yes, a nice difference to compliment my headers. most noticeable on the highways. but i wished i would have taken my stock cat to recycle... i was in a time crunch and the shop wanted it. the Stock Cat can be recycled for some good money. depending on the market ... the precious metals inside could net you $100.00.
i also let it go because the shop only charge me $100.00 for the removal of the pre cat and cat, and install of the magnaflow. only 100.00. so i thought i would let it him have it.
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i just had my pacesetter headers put on and i noticed that my oil filter is going to be very hard to change out for my next oil change... so after this tread i ordered the relocation kit from summit.
thanks for the info...
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i have a very simular item for JGC and it will not work the size is wrong for our spring diameter. it too small...
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yes. all the cars i've had... all the mods i've done... this will be the first time i'm putting headers on. only pacesetters but i'm still excited. i was tired of living with the manifold leak after 3yrs and the sound is getting worse. my cat converter still works but should i get a new one?
coucoui 6
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here is my follow update.
i got the alignment and it drove more stable right away. and now i've had it for 2-3 wks. i would say i like it.... its a very cheap and easy modification. not the best but it performs well enough. i recently did a little off roading on a few backroads where i can drive 35-40 mph with some rocky patches and smaller woops. the pathy felt good. i did bottom out on my right front once, but everything was good.
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i just got some 1" lift generic spring pads from autozone. i had to cut it to make the circle pad fit my coil better and then used a 6" hose clamp to strap it tight. i've installed it on the top of my factory coils. the pads are available from pep boys and jc whitney for cheap.
now to help with towing i've used a heavy duty tow helper springs and placed it over the my rancho 5000 dampeners. in fact, i liked it so much i've placed a set of helper spings over my front shocks also.
but i have a higher lift that your inital tread question.
has any one tried front differencial drop bushings?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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yes, the topic speaks for itself. i'm considering the drop bushing for my front but its only .5" drop. is it worth spending the $$$??? is that little bit really helpful to reduce CV wear? :coffee!: