alexrex20
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Posts posted by alexrex20
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What is so funny? Found what I needed.
what's funny is that you want somebody to measure and blueprint the TJM bumper as a favor to you. for free.
and that drawing you found is of the bumper that arcano designed, not of the TJM.
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lmao
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The ARB looks amazing but I just don't know if I could warrant spending 1200 for the bumper, 300 for lights, and then another 160-200 for shipping.
i only paid $150 for shipping (cheap compared to AC who charges the same for 4 coils), and $60 for lights. you don't have to buy the ARB/IPF lights.
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they fit on mine, but i don't think they'll clear the stock front bumper. also, 32s on stock wheels probably won't clear the struts unless you're using a super-skinny tire.
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I' m about to do my first oil & filter change and was wondering if there are any tips out there for removing the skid plate and/or filter. I haven't looked under the vehicle yet so it'll all be new and the haynes book I have doesn't say anything on the skid plate. Any knucklebuster bolts to watch out for??
thanks
you went through the trouble of looking through a complete Haynes manual, but were too lazy to take 5sec to peek under the truck?
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Year: 2000 SE 4x4
Lift: none
Wheels: 16x8 with 4in backspacing
Tires: 32x10.5-16
Notes: these are not my wheels/tire but we trial fitted them to see if i could clear 32s with NO LIFT. the tires clear the struts just fine, but with any more backspacing and the tires will rub. the tires rub the fenders at full compression, but at full lock there's no rubbing on the frame. they barely rub the inner fender on the front side, but that's easily remedied. do note that i have an ARB front bumper which already gives much more clearance than stock. i don't think 32s will fit stock fenders without major trimming.
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I have the rear end out of the truck and sitting on some blocks with all drums and brake parts off :-) I am in the middle of a frame up restore on the beast, so I guess this would be a good time to replace the seal...I guess after welding the entire frame (completely rusted out), an axle seal is a pi$$ hole in the snowbank
Just wanted to make sure I didn't need a press to separate the axle from the outer bearings to get at the grease seal...thanks guys :-)
you'll need a sliding hammer to remove the axle from the housing, but the grease seal is in the hub, which separates from the axle tube/housing with 4(?) bolts. just take a hammer and screwdriver (though a brass punch is recommended) to pop out the old seal from behind, but take care when installing the new one. it's pretty straightforward, and it sounds like you know the basics. good luck!
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my driver's side grease seal is leaking as well. my rear drum is saturated on the inside, and there's even residue on the exterior. there's no leak onto the ground or into the wheel, though. IMO, if it's not that bad, don't worry about it. before trying to replace the seal, i would just check the diff fluid level. if it's real low, then ya, replace the seal. but if it has only lost a little bit of fluid (if at all), i would just top it off and be done with it. at the most, i would just check the fluid level every other month or so.
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Do I need any special tools to replace the rear axle seal? I look through the manual and see all these special tools and even a press! well, I am sure like most of us backyard mechanics, we don't have such extravagant tools, so if anyone has had success in changing the axle seals, can you post some advice?
Thanks
you shouldn't need a press to replace the grease seal. it is labor intensive though, because you have to remove the brake assembly and hub, then pull the axle. luckily, you don't need to open the differential.
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Good to hear, thanks a lot!!! Just something to wonder, does ARB manufacture the bumper in Aussie? Doesn't they have a factory in the states? Since there are lots of offroad enthusiasts in north america, it would be sensible to do so...
yes, the bumpers are all made in Australia. their north america headquarters are in Washington state.
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Yeah, basically the local shop already has the integrated fog lights and the PIAA 520, which I requested to be mounted on top of the bumper. Its a 2000 silver pathy, with two tone between the body and slightly grey-brown fender and bumper? lol... i think you know what I'm saying... but thanks a lot for the info. it truly helps.
the front bumper will be almost a perfect match to your two-tone fenders. i have the same!
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Yes Pezzy... National4wd Burlington, to be exact. I feel bad for bugging them every week, but I've to get it before my parents come in summer. I have to repaint it to the color of the fender, so that they'll think its stock bumper for the R50 (not aftermarket stuff) - that's why I asked for the color too, lol...
ARB no longer offers custom paint on our Sahara bars. in Australia, you can get it custom painted to match your truck, but not for the bumpers sent to America. i don't see why not, but that's what they say. also, the fog lights are no longer included - they're a $350 option.
the bumper will come in a grey powdercoat. it's not painted, and it's not black. what color is your pathfinder? mine is red with the grey fender flares/bumpers and it's almost an exact match.
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Are you serious??? Which means I have until May... How could you have the patience for the bumper? Did you bug ARB or your shop at all within those five months?
I've been calling the local 4wd shop to check on my bumper every week, lol... Also when you get it, what is the color? ARB Bumper chart says its grey whereas the local 4wd shop says its gonna be black powdercoated... which is true?
yes, i bugged ARB every now and then. they were real good about keeping me updated. i think Pete ordered his 1 month after me, and from there, we just had to wait for it to be produced, shipped via ocean freight, clear customs, then truck freight from washington state to me.
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I ordered my R50 sahara bull bar from ARB back in late Dec. 2008. I'm living in Canada, so the local 4wd shop had to place an order to the supplier in new york, who will receive the product from ARB. I was told there was a backorder on the item... Its late Feb. now and am still waiting for the item... its so hard to purchase one even though I already placed my down payment way in advanced... I think they should stop posting the pathfinder bullbar as one of their products on the website if they aren't making anymore for the R50 or if they require two or more people to request for the item before they get back to work... or at the very least, they can write a note "this item may take two months or so before it can be delivered to you"
mine only took 5 months
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just weld the spiders up, you dont need a selectable in the rear. and once you drive one on the trail you'll never go back. and they're really not as bad on the street as all the ney sayers make them out to be.
have you ever had a DD with a welded rear? how badly did it eat up the tires? ever break any axles? i would think the 33-spline axles could hold up to a little bit of binding, considering what they go through on the trails.
i could be locked front and rear for <$50
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andrew, with all these pics, you BETTER NOT wuss out and not build this bumper. if it turns out good, i'll come over when you get your rear made, so we can do mine also.
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Why do I bother?
i ask myself the same thing.
but on the way home today, i was talking with my grandpa's friend's nephew who said that his math teacher was telling him of an incident where he locked up his brakes in his Pathfinder, so he rolled down all his windows to aid in braking by increasing aerodynamic drag.
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i think they'd sell like hot cakes.
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You'd think that about the rear but I am actually playing around with removing my rear axle for an old locked Bronco axle... a few mods here & there but its do-able.
well of course, if you're swapping axles then your options are infinite.
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Yes but as mentioned before, they are expensive as f*ck & if another company offered front/rear lockers for half the price & just as good of a product then... I can't justify spending more money on front & rear lockers for a vehicle that isn't worth the cost of the lockers. If I earned more money & this was not my DD & more of a trail rig then I'd go for the extra goodies but as it is I can't justify spend $1000+ for front ARB air lockers & another $1000-1200 for rear ARB air lockers.
in that case, our only option for rear is ARB. for the front it's ARB or Lokka.
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ARB makes front and rear air lockers for R50s
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the brackets are pretty intricate. they use 3 large and 2 small bolts. there's a metal tab thingy that fits nicely into the ARB bracket, but can be a PITA if you're making a custom mount. you can see the metal tab in the first pic:
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Ok all, I just got off the phone with 4WD Systems, the front Lokka for the R50 is $649, they don't do one for the back end, would cost $20 to have it delivered to anywhere in Oz so not sure about delivery to the US. These prices are in Oz dollars, so you'd be looking at approx USD$430 + delivery to where ever you are.
The WD21 is to be released later this year.
thanks for the info Dave!
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once again I'm confused as s@%t hahaha, in my mind it sounds like a good idear. Daily driven=unlock hubs... Trails and mud=Lock the hubs... no problem? The only thing I can think of is when I AM doing trails with the hubs locked, hard corners will be rough on my CVs
no harder than a "true" locker. if the diff is locked, the diff is locked.
R50 Bumpers
in R50 FAQ's & Pinned Topics
Posted
my bumper has held up pretty well, despite getting banged around and slammed on the rocks.