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alexrex20

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Posts posted by alexrex20

  1. So the physical difference between an open diff and a limited slip diff is that an open diff lacks the clutch plates and thus has weaker breakaway torque...? :scratchhead:

     

     

    an open diff has no mechanism to prevent a wheel from spinning faster than the other. effectively, an open diff has a breakaway torque of 0lb-ft. :D

  2. check the check valve in the fitting which connects the vacuum line from the intake to the booster housing (of course, check the entire vacuum line as well). air should flow through it in only one direction. it's rare for the booster itself to fail, especially on a vehicle as new as yours.

  3. after you shut the engine off, there is no vacuum. you can pump the brakes once or twice before losing all pressure in the booster. maybe you've already exhausted the stored vacuum in the booster (by hitting the brakes with the engine off), by the time you try to start it again.

  4. We don't take physics in my school district... :shrug:

     

    And how does it not?

    Go around a corner to the left, and that tire spins. Go around the corner to the right and that tire spins. Put the left tire on some snow and the other on gravel, and hit the gas and the snow tire spins. Put the other tire on the snow and the other on gravel and

    that tire spins.

     

    I don't quite see how that's not taking the path of least resistance...

     

    But I did fail chemistry and biology...

     

    it's not that someone designed it to operate that way; it's the LAWS OF PHYSICS that decided that. the LAWS OF PHYSICS make it choose the tire with least traction.

  5. why in the hell would you increase the injector size? adding a spacing under the TBI does not increase airflow. it adds more plenum space for the fuel to mix with the air. you people need to go to the library and read a book or 2. stop reading all the crap thats posted on the internet.

     

     

    that's why the trucks lean out when you add a TB spacer. perhaps you should take your nose out of the books and stick them under a few hoods.

  6. I said that it should run better, not that I want more horsepower. I have cams, intake and exhaust to improve the performance. I want to smooth out the idle, and a guy told me that removing the egr (<-I got it right can I play with it now alex?) would help the idle. I don't have to pass inspections where I live so that isn't a factor.

    It was a simple question and I was just asking for advice (that is why we are here right).

     

    From what I understand it is closed when you are giving the engine gas, and open when you are just cruising. So would it be open or closed at idle?

     

     

    it is illegal in ALL 50 STATES to remove an emissions control device that came factory-equipped on the vehicle. simply because your county does not test for these parts does not mean it's legal to remove it.

     

    anyway, like stated above, an EGR valve should be shut at idle. if you have a crappy idle, get a better tune and/or fix your EGR. removing the EGR won't hurt anything, so that's another option if it is the EGR that's causing your driveability issues. manually actuating the EGR valve won't prove/disprove if it's seating shut at idle. the smallest amount of bypass will still affect your idle.

  7. I have no idea if the diffs are the same between WDs and R50s, but mine does exactly what yours did, and it's an open diff.

     

    Though I hear that the stock LSDs in R50s aren't worth very much.

     

    A way to tell is jack the rear end up, and if you spin one wheel and the other spins the same way, you have LSD. If not, open diff. An open diff will spin the tire with the least traction. Stupid idea, really. Whoever thought of that should be shot multiple times.

     

     

    did you fail your high school physics? :rofl:

  8. its not pointless, it may not ad HP but it does improve throttle response on the VG30i, i had about 3/4" of xtra hollowed out mixture heaters stacked under mine and it made a noticeable difference in the throtte response. and it may even help with the problem of the vg30i's running lean on one bank and rich on the others.

     

     

    i'm not familiar with the VG30I but if it is indeed a TBI engine, then a TB spacer will work. for best effect, a TB spacer should be used in conjunction with higher capacity/overclocked injectors.

  9. on a true TBI engine (fuel is injected at the actual throttle body), a throttle body spacer can improve performance when coupled with bigger injectors. it was a common/cheap mod on the TBI sbc350.

     

    on a VG nissan, it's pointless.

  10. Will it hurt anything if you bypass the erg by disconnecting the tube that goes from the header to the erg and plugging the holes? The engine should run better without exhaust in the intake.

     

     

    if you don't even know what the name is, perhaps you should leave it alone.

  11. [DISCLAIMER] I did a search and didn't find the answer.

     

    So I'm looking at wheels and found one that I think I like and it's got a backspacing of 3.75". From what I've read it seems that the lower the number the farther the wheel sticks out, is this correct?

     

    Will a 3.75" BS work with the standard 2" lift?

     

    Thanks guys!

     

    Billy

     

     

    yes and yes.

  12. So by disabling the EGR valve, what exactly would be the result? :scratchhead:

     

     

    you would pollute more.

     

    EGR only opens when you're cruising (highway driving). so if you want that extra horsepower when you've got your cruise control set at 65mph, by all means - disconnect your EGR. have fun getting the truck inspected.

  13. If you want proven power port & polish the heads and intake, stuff a huge cam in it, open up the exhaust, then tune the ECU for the changes in air/fuel requirements and to get the most out of a bigger cam you really need to increase the compression ratio. and due to design issues you cant shave the head more than a few thousanths on the vg engines without intake issues. so your only option there is to get some dome topped pistons. other than that your not going to make many horsepower without forced induction. all the fancy plug wires, spark plugs and air filters in the world will not gain you horsepower, they will free up HP lost from economy based stock equipment. there is an ongoing debate on the actual gains from an e-fan v.s a mechanical fan.

     

     

    well said.

     

    but alas, a reworked VG will probably still be only as powerful as a stock VQ, but arguably at the same or higher cost.

  14. I'm sure with all the supporting mods (electronics, wires, etc.) it's feasible to see an increase.

     

     

    there are no supporting mods for nonexistent horsepower. there is no need for an upgraded ignition system if you don't have an upgraded fuel system. even still, upgrade both systems without necessity, and you will still see no power gains. (what good is extra fuel/spark if you don't have extra air?) the only situation that warrants fuel/ignition upgrades are when you already have a significant power increase (forced induction, nitrous, etc.). simply installing bigger wires or high-performance plugs will do nothing for an engine that is not modified. it will give you the capacity for increased power, but they themselves will not increase your power.

     

    save your money and just get NGK platinum or iridium plugs, and OEM-spec plug wires.

  15. explain how hot exhaust being dumped into the intake lowers combustion temps?

     

     

    hot exhaust is an inert gas and will not burn. the air/fuel mixture will and does burn at several 1000F hotter than exhaust gases. it effectively leans out the AFR, but not by fuel starvation or air over-supply. it dilutes the AFR with an inert gas.

     

    EGR doesn't operate under high-load situations so it doesn't affect peak performance. if you're getting on it, the EGR will be off.

  16. mine does the same thing. if i have the option to stop, then i'll do that and make sure it comes out of 4wd first. otherwise, i just leave the lever in 2wd and wait for it to pop out of gear. sometimes it does it at 20mph, sometimes at 60mph. the other option is to just continue on the highway in 4wd. as long as you have the same size tires front and rear, it shouldn't be a problem.

  17. oddly enough, the most aesthetic damage my bumper has received is from the floppy lane divider thingies on the highway, which i hit at about 65mph. they put little scuff marks on the face and also scratched one of my bumper stickers. :(

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