Terrano1992
-
Posts
178 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Terrano1992
-
-
Oh, I know. I know the timing can be adjusted and I know that the ECU further tweaks it according to what it's sensors indicate.
Just quoting the manual...
Chilton says @!*%... You can change base ignition angle by rotating distributor. Look at FSM-1994, pages EF&EC-24..28. But you can't change angle correction value, applied by ECU depending on engine operating mode.
-
Which of the numbered marks in the picture is 0° BTDC....
#1 is TDC (0°), #7 is 30° BTDC (5° each mark). Mark #4 is 15° BTDC.
-
I cannot yet run the engine w/o coolant
You can, but for very short time (5 seconds or so). It will be enough to see, which hose squirts.
Also, you can disconnect central wire from distributor, ground it (to prevent coil damage) and rotate engine with starter. But i don't know, maybe it will be enough to bring Dexron pump into life...
-
In that Manual (pdf file), on page EM 16, that business with the "Feeler Gauge" makes absolutely no sense to me.
What the Hell does one get from that feeler guage being in between the belt and the tensioner ?
This "mysterious" feeler gauge purpose has a simple explanation. You set feeler gauge (or any suitable substitute with the same dimensions - flat bar of steel, hard plastic, etc.) between tensioner pulley and belt, then finally tighten a belt. After that, when you remove gauge, belt will be loosen a bit. In other words, this gauge is used to prevent belt overtightening.
...and how do you push on the belt with 22 lbs force - a "Special Tool" ?I did it with kitchen spring balance...
I like the idea of twisting the belt 90° to test the tension (5523Pathfinder).This is a good method if you have some experience.
Does ANYONE "confirm" that Number One Piston is at the top ?What - a long screwdriver down into the open spark plug hole to see if the Piston is at the top ?
Yes. Check piston position with long screwdriver or other similar thing. Also, you can look at punch marks at camshaft sprockets (align them approximately to punch marks at rear half of t-belt cover).
-
Hey - Terrano1992 - thanks for that information !
Don't mention it... You can look at official Factory Service Manual for 1994 Pathfinder. For example, here. Adobe Reader or similar program to open PDF format will be required. Look at pages EM-12..EM-17 for full TB replacement procedure.
-
There is no way that tensioner is going in there without prying the belt over it - which
makes me very, very nervous....don't want to bugger the belt !
First, remove T-belt from sprockets. Install tensioner. Rotate tensioner clockwise to max (with allen/hex wrench) and temporarily fix it with nut. Install T-belt on sprockets again (it fits tight enough, but don't worry), make sure that all 3 paint lines on belt are aligned with punch marks on sprockets. Loose nut and rotate tensioner counter-clockwise to achieve required belt tension, fix it with nut again. That's all...
-
Hi I have a D21 Terrano VG30I imported to Australia. Most if not all the general auto parts stores only show VG30E parts listings. In regards to Timing Belt and Water Pump and Radiator Hoses are there any differances between the motors. Are the instructions in the How To Garage for replacing timming belt the same. I am having LPG fitted soon to the car and want to replace the Timing Belt and hoses before it goes to the shop. Also still wanting a copy of the wiring if anyone has one. Thank You.
Nissan Part Numbers for your engine:
Timing belt: 13028-16E10 or (new part number) 13028-16EXE
Tensioner roller: 13070-42L00
Tensioner roller spring: 13072-V5210
Tensioner roller stud: 13073-V5001
Water pump assy (with gasket): 21010-12G26 or (new part number) 21010-12G28.
-
the only permanent fix is to unplug the factory switch and replace it with a quality pin switch on the hatch.
Not only. You can see another original "russian" permanent fix here.
These pages are in Russian, but attached photos says enough. You need a pin switch and some self-made metal gusset to mount this switch at the hatch lock plate (fix it to plate with weld, rivets, screws/nuts, to your choice). It is real permanent fix - thoroughly tested and approved by our Terrano/Pathfinder community.
-
In an aussie forum, it was suggested that many USA parts for 2 door Pathy's won't fit Aussie spec vehicles. I've asked about the body lifts but have not had an answer and so i thought i'd ask the question here?
Also... does anyone know of a company that does steel body lifts rather than the tough plastic [whatever the material is] type?
I think that is no difference between LHD (USA, Europe) and RHD (Japan, Australia) body lift kits.
Why do you want steel kit instead of tough plastic? It has no advantages, only extra weight... Polyamide resin blocks are good, tough... and rust-proof too...
-
My front power windows work fine, but the rear ones = nada.
Check driver door switch panel first...
-
However, when I slip her into drive or reverse, the revs drop to around 400-500. Furthermore, if I turn the wheel when stopped(in drive or reverse) the revs go down even more to around 200-250 until I stop turning the wheel.
Check your IACV-AAC valve (and valve wiring too).
-
Why are there two connectors on the TPS? The one on the pigtail connect to an internal potentiometer and you can read the value with a meter. I can't tell what the other one on the body of the TPS is for.
The other one is for CTP (Closed Throttle Position) switch.
-
The 2.7 liter diesel is also a good choice; I believe they use the same tranny.
In a word - no.
FS5R30A manual tranny for VG30i/VG30E, FS5W71C for TD27T (diesel). They are not interchangeable.
-
This thing has always been very slow to warm during the winter.
...and overheats under load, when weather is hot. Bad thermostat (stuck at half-open position)?
-
anyone know of what diameter the lift blocks are. i can find 50mm high and 50mm diameter or 50mm high and 75mm diameter...... any suggestions.
I suggest second option (75 mm diameter).
-
The only thing I need to know is the specs on the bolts for a 2" lift, ie: length, diameter, and thread pitch.
Factory installed bolts are 100 mm length. Simply add "your spacer block height" to this length - for example, with 2" (51 mm) required bolt length will be 150 mm.
All 10 bolts are metric. 8 bolts (front body mounting points) - M10x1.25, 2 bolts (rearmost mount point) - M12x1.25 for 1990-95, or M10x1.25 for 1987-1990.
-
What would the simptoms of improper thickness be, if any?
Automatic hub will not engage/disengage properly, if corresponded brake set is worn.
-
If I recall correctly specs are 45-52 psi @ 2500 RPM.
1994 FSM says: more than 9 psi @ idle, 53-65 psi @ 3200 RPM.
-
So should I not be running a blue relay in the fuel pump spot? Is there going to be a possibility of an under/over volt?
Lower coil resistance puts excessive load at ECU transistor switch. You can temporarily replace green relays with blue, but this is not recommended for long term use.
-
Yea I think it was the fuel relay. I switched it out with the blue 4 pin for my a/c, since that doesn't work. I'm assuming that the only thing that is different with the relays is the color.
Coil resistance of green relay is nearly 1.5-2 times higher than blue - it's only difference.
-
yeah, I had pretty much resigned myself to cutting them. Just need to order the new spindles/bolts/washers/nuts.
You can try electric jigsaw (for example) with appropriate metal-cutting saw blades, instead of angle grinder. Maybe it works better for you. Much slower, but safely.
-
I have a 92 pathfinder and lately the fuel pump keeps running for about 30-45 seconds after I turn off the engine. Is this a result of a leak in the lines or a faulty fuel regulator?
Fuel system on 1987-95 Pathfinders does not have any type of "fuel pressure" electronic sensors.
Check "fuel pump" relay under the hood (worn-out relay contacts can be "sticky"). You can temporarily swap it with another near-by green relay, just for test.
Also check contact group of ignition switch. Normally, there is no power (+12V) on any fuel pump relay contact (pin), when ignition key turned to "OFF" or "ACC" position.
-
Guess i'll go for the heat/big-ass-hammer method next, while I try to find a 2" right angle grinder. I have a 4" angle grinder, but the area the heads of those bolts are in is kinda tight.
I did it with standard 5"-wheel angle grinder. It's tight, but a little.
Do not waste your time with BFH. Bushings are springy. So, you can't strike a sharp blow on spindle.
-
What years of xterra are the wd22's?
I might have better luck asking for them than for the part for a 91 pathy.
Use Nissan part numbers:
1) Spindle bolt:
SPINDLE-LOWER ARM, p/n 54419-B9500, or 54419-VK800, or 54419-VK80A (all three are the same).
2) LCA bushing:
BUSH-LOWER LINK, p/n 54560-01G00.
Replacing the Timing Belt & Adding an AT Cooler
in How-To's
Posted
IACV Air Regulator.