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vanuatoo

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Posts posted by vanuatoo

  1. yea, my wheel is way off center. I was just gonna adjust the tie rods till its straight, i.e. "tighten" one end and "loosen" the other side. till its straight. And vuala! straight steering wheel!

     

    Oh, and there is a way to adjust camber, its with the strut mount and coil hat. if you install them in different direction that f's up your alignment also. SO MAKE SURE THEY ARE STAIGHT!!!

    Jose

     

    Mechanic told me that he could straight the steering wheel but in that case wheel alignment would not be OK.

     

    I just don't know how it works. What could you say from the above sentence?

     

    1. mechanic does not know what he's talking about or he does not know how to center the steering and not break the alignment at the same time.

    2. that is possible and some other actions need to be conducted.

  2. Doesn't sound like a very educated or confident mechanic to me. Try another shop.

    I guess he does not know how to adjust rack and pinion steering.

    I will try to find another shop.

    BTW will it cause some damage to the steering system if it's not adjusted?

     

    I don't think it pulls, just off-centered right, not very much but visually noticeable.

    It does not bother me, just wanted to know if this problem can be solved.

     

    You don't know how many times I dreamt to teleport to USA with my car for qualified inspection. :)

  3. if you had the alignment done at a shop, take it back and tell them to do it right.

    I did it at a shop. mechanic did it on a special electronic equipment and he did fix the steering wheel.

     

    He told after alignment that steering wheel is off-center. He also told me that he could make it centered but in that case wheel alignment would be wrong.

    I don't know how to say it correctly but he told me that steering wheel axle has some threshold and that's why it's off-center.

     

    I'm not sure about his skills and maybe there is something he does not know that you do. Honestly I'm more confident in your skills than in any other mechanic out there.

  4. I measured with the (full tank, drive some, full tank again) method and got 11.6 litres per 100km that is about 20.2 mpg.

    I drove 450kms (279.6 miles), 400km highway with 90km/ph (56mp/h) and 50 km country road with lots of holes and bumps mainly driving in 1st and 2nd gear.

     

    I'm sure 21 mpg is achievable.

     

    On the other side in the city 12-15 mpg is what I got. My town is full of hills and my usual trip is 7 kms (4.3 miles) long, additionally there are many stoplights on my way so I think it's normal.

  5. But man listen, really, if you can change your oil than YOU CAN loc-tite those power valve screws. It may take 2 hrs, but seriously giving up the truck over a 2 hr update proceedure is just not ok. Honest.

    Unfortunately I don't live in USA and in my country there is no certified Nissan Dealer, just self-taught mechanics. Some of them are good but I don't want to risk and give my engine in their hands. There is a possibility that my screws are ok and after opening the engine they won't close it properly and I will be blaming all my possible engine problems to them.

    If I were in USA I would definitely shell out money and go to dealer for the peace of mind but what drives me mad is that the problem does exist and Nissan does not issue recall notice. How many cars are needed to admit that? I've been thoroughly researching what car to buy and had come to the conclusion that pathy is best suited for me and it is right now but If I have found this forum earlier I would wait a little bit and buy some other brand.

  6. I joined to add to the list of people screwed over by the power valve screws. The butterflys cannot make it in to the engine btw, so its screws only. The are not brass also-They are magnetic. I don't believe Nissan when they say this problem is rare. If everyone with high oil consumption looked at the screws, they might find the answer. Fuel consumption and valve damage are hints for sure. My butterflys ended up in the #6 location, sandwiched on eachother. So what this means is they don't go down directly when they fall out. My missing valves were the middle 2. So the valves might not be where you think. my valves look much like the picture in this topic of the person who lost 3 I believe. My truck was perfectly taken care of, but this has done untold damage. The screws are Not soft, so don't think they pass gently....more like a kidney stone. Nissan lost me as a customer. 2 full days work hunting and removing.

    The Swirl valves look suspect too. Its the plenum upper and lower, and the manifold to get to much of it. Plan more time than you hear people saying to do it right. If you have all your valves thank your lucky stars. Don't just loctite, flare the ends or otherwise.

    Thanks to the person who showed pics on how to.

    Really sad to hear that. What is your car mileage?

  7. What agreat thread, though I am slightly biased, it keeps beaming the VQ's durability!

     

    Is everyone here aboard the TrueDelta site?

    2003 SE with ~50k miles on it.

    I'm really frightened when someone is caught by power valve screws issue.

    It really hurts nissan reputation to have an issue without recall.

    I really like my car and the engine performance but knowing that one day you might have big problem pushes me to replace the car

    as soon as I have money.

    I looked long for my car and wanted low mileage one. It seems power valve issues come up before 100k miles which means if you have a car with >100k miles you won't be a victim.

  8. This is really annoying issue.

     

    I own 2003 pathfinder with 50,000 miles on it.

    I don't live in USA and don't want some self-taught technician to touch my engine.

     

    I wonder what is the statistics, I mean how random is the issue. On what mileage does it happen, what VIN codes?

    It does not seem to be an engine defect, just the assembly issue.

     

    Does anyone know if those screws are tightened by hand work or robot?

     

    I really feel like playing a lottery just will be happy not to win a prize.

  9. A lot of companies out there offer equally-priced parts which tend to perform better and last longer. ;)

    I was thinking about that but because I don't know what is better choosing OEM was the safest way for me.

  10. Today I've noticed that If gearbox lever is in P or N on the panel comes that sign but in paled red.

    Parking brake sign or any other red sign is 3 times brighter than that sign.

     

    The strange thing is that my SE 2003 does not have that carrier on the tail door, instead it's mounted under the body.

    I haven't touched it since I bought it. I checked and it is not loose.

     

    Today was heavy rain. Is it some wiring problem? I'm confused.

     

    Thanks.

  11. Hello

     

    I'm going to buy front brake pads for my SE 2003

     

    nissan4parts.com tells me that I need part number 41060-5W585

     

    I've looked for them on some internet stores and they cost about 50$ but my question is:

    Is it a set of 4 or 2? To put it another way should I buy 2 of them?

     

    thanks

  12. Hello

     

    Today I've noticed that If I open driver's door and quickly move it out and in something is moving inside it.

    Every control on the door works fine and I don't have any problems. It even does not bother me while driving.

     

    Is it dangerous to leave it as it is now?

     

    I've looked at the repair manual and it's not that hard to remove door trim and look inside what's gone free.

  13. You'll be fine to 5000. You got synthetic! (which i can;t afford..haha). As a rule i use, the line between L and H i add a quarter of a quart at a time. it usually ends up being a whole quart, but add a quarter at a time.

    Yes the price is the reason I don't change it at 3,500 miles or 3 months as stated in premium maintenance.

    It costs me about 120$ to change the oil.

  14. i run 35psi cold in my tires. i haven't checked the pressures since the last time i aired back up, and i don't plan on checking them until they look flat. :)

     

    2psi is nothing; the tire will lose/gain 2psi or more as it cools and heats and cools and heats again.

     

    Sticker on my car says to have cold 30psi on all tires.

  15. ... 4000 miles ? isn't it the time to change the oil all together ? and you do so, why don't you go for synthetic oil (if you don't burn any) ?! ...Your engine will love it...

    It's Aral Fully Synthetic 5w-30 Long Life oil.

     

    I was thinking about changing the oil, just wanted to make it to 5000 mile.

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