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vanuatoo

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Posts posted by vanuatoo

  1. I've cleaned MAF today.

    Just used ordinary Torx (not Tamper-Proof) T20 and 1/4 ratchet.

    The hardest part was to remove MAF from the housing, I've used small flat screwdriver.

     

    I've not sprayed the cleaner on the upper 2 wires, just the bottom one and it looked clean before procedure.

     

    Problem is not solved. :(

    Car still has the same symptoms as WOT described.

     

    What else should I try next?

  2. Hello,

     

    I've got 2003 SE 4wd with 71,000 miles.

     

    I guess spark plugs has not been changed in this vehicle because when I bought it in 2008 car had 44,000 miles on it.

     

    Owners Manual says to replace them at 105,000 miles but is it also dependent on time?

    Car will turn 10 next April.

     

    Car has no noticable problems, no codes, runs fine.

  3. Yep, that's fine. I've used it before without issue.

    I'm also going to buy this

     

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0041X9RO2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=A2FYHGC4NSM6WF

     

    And to finalize I will:

    1. Disconnect negative cable

    2. Unplug this harness

    3. Unscrew two bolts

    4. Remove MAF (I will also memorize the direction, don't know if it matters)

    5. Spray the cleaner to the upper part from some distance as shown in the picture.

    6. Wait 10-20 seconds and assemble everything with back order.

     

    Please confirm. :)

     

    Is it also good idea to clean the throttle body?

     

    Car has only 69000 miles. I change air filter every oil change (Usually 6-8 months) but it's too dusty and I have to change it more frequently I guess.

  4. My car had the exact problem. On a cold start, would fire strong and jump to 1300 rpm and gradually come down as it warmed up. But if the car was hot, when I started it, it would idle at like 400ish rpm or just die out unless you gave it some gas.

     

    Cleaned the MAF, problem solved.

     

    Id try that if you havent done it recently

     

    Could you please tell me exactly how to do that?

    Which cleaner have you used?

  5. It is going to be the Idle Air control. It is probably not working and in the closed position.

    Where is it located and is it possible to diagnose its condition?

     

    BTW I've changed coolant last summer, just drained and refilled it with one gallon of Genuine Nissan Antifreeze. Level is OK when I check it in the morning.

  6. Hello

     

    I've got 2003 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4 Automatic.

     

    Car is working fine, no problems, no MIL.

    Car starts from the first time when engine is cold.

    But when engine is warm and I shut it off, If I start it after 5 minutes it starts, then tachometer gauge goes down to 500 rpm and stalls.

    If I help a GAS pedal it does not stall. It does not happen all the time.

     

    It started a month ago and initially tachometer was going down and somehow managed to not stall.

     

    I'm using Mobil 1 5w-30 oil and Premium oil.

    I have this car for 4 years now and did not change spark plugs.

    Air filter was changed 6 months ago.

    Fuel filter was changed 6 months ago.

  7. Thanks everyone for helpful comments.

     

    I'm not going to do any offroading, it's just a family car.

    Money is not a problem for me, mechanics in my country are not charging to much.

    For instance for one side boot replacement I'll be charged about 14$.

     

    My questions are:

     

    1. Based on the fact that I'm not going to offroad and mud and snow is not common in my area, but it's definitely more dust in here than in an average USA town, what is the risk that strut or any other component will be damaged in foreseeble future?

    2. Should I fear that after the whole strut is disassembled and assembled again it will make noticeable effect on suspension? This question might seem odd. If there was a certified Nissan dealer I would bring the car to sleep in relative comfort compared to local mechanic. To reformulate the question, what difficulty you would assign to this job on a scale from 1 to 10? I looked in the FSM and know what parts should be disassembled and wich order, what nuts should not be reused, so I will watch mechanic to do his job well and provide him with the original parts from www.parts.com.

     

    Thanks again

  8. Hello everyone

     

    Today I've noticed that driver side strut boot (called Bumper on parts.com) is torn. Passenger side is also cracked at the same place.

     

    I'm going to buy those boots (they cost 12.43) on parts.com. Should I buy any additional parts or is it enough to replace?

     

    Thanks.

  9. Hey guys, I wanted to know if anyone can give me a hand with a check engine light code, P0440, Emissions Evaporation System. I get 15mpg going 55mph, but used to get 18-19mpg going 72mph (the trucks runs m1 synthetic oil and filter, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, o2 sensors, battery, etc). I am not sure where to begin on how to diagnose this problem, any substantial help would be appreciated..thanks in advance

     

    http://www.obd-codes.com/p0440

     

    With a P0440 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try:

     

    * Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the code, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back.

    * Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses

    * Inspect for damaged or disconnected hoses around the Evap purge solenoid

    * Check and/or replace the sensor

    * Check and/or replace the purge valve

    * Have a professional use a smoke machine to detect leaks

  10. take a look at your owner's manual. it will tell you what and which fluid to use and how to add it, but topping off fluid is supposed to be added straight into the charge pipe.

     

    it tells me everything except the amount of fluid between L and H mark, that is my question.

  11. Hello people

     

    I've got 2003 nissan pathfinder SE 4x4.

    I've checked the transmission fluid as stated in the manual and it's on L mark of HOT Range.

    Does anyone know what amount of fluid should I add to make it to H mark, or at least tell me what is the safe amount to add step by step?

     

    Thanks everyone.

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