nunya
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Posts posted by nunya
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there was 4x4 EVO1 and 2. got 1 for ps2 and 2 for x-box(never made 2 for ps2 for some odd reason). besides that i dont really know of any comsole ones but i am not up to date with ps3 and x-box 360 games because i cant break myself down to spend that much on a game console. what should be made is a 4wheeling game like motor city online was, or just make motor city online 2 and add it as a catagory
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i had a setup kind of like that on my hardbody at one point in its life, still don't know what the pushbar was truely for. i just strait welded it to the front bumper at first until someone backed into it at a mall parking lot. bent the crap out of the bumper. bent the bumper back kind of close to strait(took a body man to tell it wasn't right) extended it do the frame with some steel, a plasma cutter, and a welder. held up on and off road like a champ until i changed the front end to 93+ style hardbody.
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when you strap the car to your dolly, USE BOTH STRAPS! make sure they are properly around the tires and tight. if the excess of the strap afetr tightenign drags on the ground or just plain bothers you tie it to a tight part of tha strap. good idea would be to get a short chocker chain or 2 and chain the lower control arms of the car being dollied to the dolly. a little extra protection incase the straps fail(i drive wrecker and feel you never have too many saftys). like stated multipule times already make sure your safty chains from dolly to truck are correct for what you are hauling and secured good, not dog chains with s-hooks, or my favoite i see sometimes-rope(doesn't hurt to have a 3rd safty here as well if goeing a decent distance). and make sure they are crossed(benifits of this have already been covered). triple check all lights,tire press, hook ups,etc. and don't be afraid to check multipule times during a trip.
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to each their own, i think....now that i have lost my apetite
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as long as you have the correct brackets for the year bumper you are able to flip them back and fourth either way, i would assume the same goes for the rear as well
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with the ammount of info on here i am extremely confused(not hard to do). at work i am junking a 89 cherokee laredo i6. are these useful or not on a 88 2 door, no spare tire rack? i have them out but didn't think far enough ahead to measure anything or count the coils,commen sence is lacking with me sometimes. i was just wondering before i go through cutting them and wasting getting them powdercoated.
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the gap band-you dropped a bomb on me
next track is haddaway-what is love
next is michael jackson-billy jean
next is boot scootin boogie......i make strange mixes and have no clue what will happen after about 5 songs deep into them
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i was always taught to not run different size tires on 4 wheel drives in general. i know its not good to run 2 different sizes on the same axle but i am not sure if it would be harmful the way you want to. dont think it to be too wise though...
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just wist the stuff rebuilt faster seems to have taken forever to get to level 15
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Have to vote frame issues since while i was looking fo rone every one i came across was junk underneath. the newer they got the worse they were suprisingly. that and they should have never quit the 2 door...
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i am goeing to need a couple when they are up again as well
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my mistake, i misunderstood, sorry about that(wasnt my place anyway)
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http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17038
planning on it myself.
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If i am correct it is called the Nissan Camiones and 2008 was the last model year for it and they are starting to push 09's now. i had web sites about them having thoughts of figuring out how to ship a 08 d-21 hardbody 4 door to the U.S. that thought passed and i cant read other languages so i gave up.
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Sounds like my 91 hardbody, its the throwout bearing in that, been liek that for years, i just dont want to pull it apart unless that trans is goeing in the Pathfinder.....
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Definately front...
Only thing I did was lift the droopy front end... it's about 2 inches higher than normal via tweaked T-bars...
The rubber boots on I guess the CV shafts (not sure thats the right name) are HIGHLY compressed at the top and extended at the bottom - could the old rubber be making that noise?
Heat shields are in good condition... breaks are great. Wheel bearings are good I think (just had it inspected... is that normally done via inspection?)
Your in PA, the insp. mech. is SUPPOSED to check for wheelbearing issues.
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Mine started doing that a couple days ago. I'm blowing fuses on the Right HL like crazy.
Can you elaborate? You got as far as the dissasembly, but didn't say what you did to fix the problem.
Did you replace the switch? If so, where did the new one come from? How much?
Details man!
Besides cutting some jumper wires off the switch someone put on for unknown reasons and were pinching in the colum, the fix for me was replacing the headlight switch. I had a spare one from a 2wd Hardbody basemodel i had for parts. It is actually not the correct one(does not have the controls for cruise on it) but the headlights work perfectly with any of the multipule bulbs i went through thinking they were bad. I dont honestly know what goeing price would be for one, i just got luckey and have a couple spare parts laying around having stripped a fiew Hardbodies before junking then.
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i just went through a similar headlight issue, both bulbs were good but only the left low beam would work, and the right high beam would work. after goeing nuts tracing wires( which has been fun with this truck, everyone is a mechanic until someone who wants to fix it right gets ahold of it). turns out it was the headlight switch had an internal short. 6 phillips screws for the steering colum trim, 2 for the headlight switch, 2 plugs removed, reverse procedure and had perfect working headlights.
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I've gotten into many d-21 pickups and wd-21 pathfinders with the Big Easy tool(I drive wrecker, not a car theif), they are actually easy. If you don't want the box to go anywhere, fill it with a little concrete. You may laugh but it definatly deters people. I did it in an Olds Cutlass I had, my trunk was broken into 3 times and the only thing I lost was someone stole a bent golf club I had in the trunk.
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at the moment all i have on my 88 2 door 3.0l is the factory y-pipe and a aftermarket bullet shaped converter(don't know the brand, cut off a crown vic getting junked). no muffler, no tailpipe, exiting right under the drivers floor. dont sound too bad just a little noisy for me and i cant get it inspected that way. doesn't sound weed wacker-ish or like a honda though. goeing for a thrush muffler im thinking and see if i can get it to exit before the rear tire.
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Well its not the gauge cluster, I now have an extra one of those, the wiring looks intact at the float assembly, used a test light though and only have power to 1 wire with the truck running(figuring that it is the power side of the fuel pump). Looks like I am tracing wires now, which seems to be common as I find more and more stuff jumped off of stuff after lifting the rear carpet.
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running 30's for the moment, have 31's mounted on centerlines ready, just havent got that far yet.
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My fuel gauge is stuck on empty, I tried jumping the terminals on the back of the instrument cluster that Mitchel On Demand said were for it(if that is even right) and it still didn't budge. All my other gauges work fine but I have come to find that someone before me didn't exactly do well with wiring(miles of wires jumping things and left as perminant fixes unstead of just fixing things) My thoughts are bad gauge but was not sure and wanted to get some other ideas before I try to hunt down a whole cluster. Thanks in advance.
$4+ a gallon - what's your personal solution
in General Forums
Posted
if i have to care that much i always have my 91 eclipse 20.l DOHC 5speed(of course). little fwd DSM is a zippy bastard as well, just ugly as sin(painted it with spray can primer)