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Thanks, I figured that's what it was, but since it has the new motor, who knows what else is new. I'll order it today. Thanks again, Sean

I think 4 looks better. And it does look funny to see them so far back on the roof rack. But if you're like me, I'm proud if I can do something properly and inexpensively. It allows me to do my 280 HP turbo subaru motor swap in my 2060 pound Porsche 914 and modify my pathfinder and still keep the wife happy. It's part of the theme on my pathfinder. I wouldn't spend the money on a light bar either.

I did a auto to manual swap on a '90 2door. I didn't have to take the torsion bars off. Count on breaking a bolt off of the exhaust y-pipe into the passenger side manifold. I broke 2 of them even with heat and days and days with repeated PB blaster applications. They can be drilled out though. Ohh, and if you don't seperate the transmission and transfer case, you're going to need an extra set of hands.

Here's a little preliminary info. I own a 1990 2 door Pathfinder, VG30E and everything. So, I noticed that a certain suppler of parts for our trucks had 2 choices for body lifts listed on their website. Choice A: 1987-1989 Choice B: 1990-1995 Since I have a 1990 2 door, I sent an email to ask which one to order. They replies promptly and politely that Nissan stopped making the 2door in 1989. We all know that this is not true, but I still don't know which body lift to order. My '90 2door seems to be the lovechild of an '89 2dr and a '90 4dr. So which body kit do I get, or should I search for a different brand. Thanks, Sean

I was in panama this past summer and saw a bunch of diesel pathfinders down there. I was thinking that south of the border might be a good place to source a motor....then again there is probably more of a language barrier and more restrictions on moving goods back and forth. Maybe I could pay someone to smuggle one in. If he gets caught, they might be so surprized it's not drugs that they'll just let it go...

I took the truck for a spin around the block this afternoon. I got alot of stares...probably the open headers. Still no reverse lights and some other little things to do.

Now i just need to figure out how to connect the wires so that the brake lights and reverse lights come on. There also seems to be differeing opinions on what type of fluid to use in the transfer case. I have some dexron/mercon V ATF in my shed, so i'm hoping that's what it calls for. my haynes and chilton manuals seem to differ. Any insights for a 1990 transfer case?

OK, I've been out to sea, but... I went out yesterday and finished connecting the clutch lines, cut the brake pedal, put fluid in the tranny, installed the rear driveshaft, and connected the wires to allow the starter to work without the neutral position switch. Busy night! So, i guess all i have to do is bleed the clutch, put the dash back together, drill holes in my crossmember, fluid in the transfer case, install exhaust Y-pipe, hook up the reverse lights, install front driveshaft, trim the interior console (hits shifter in 5th and reverse) and drive it to the beach to test it out. I see the end of the light!!! P.S. thanks rich and sam for your help with the wiring...I was a little worried while i was out to sea.

I'll be out to sea from the 9th of april to the 20th of april. Rich, i'll give you a call on the 19th when they drop me off in Florida and i'll be driving back by the morning of the 20th.

I think i'm going to start by hooking up the auto tranny next to the truck to see if i can get it going. Then at least i can rule out something else going on.

Wiring???

I took apart the dashboard of a manual pathfinder at the junkyard and paid $3.49 for the tube between the climate control and the left driver air vent. I'll have to start the long careful process of removing my dash to get the one for the manual in. I'm concerned about breaking the vents for the defroster. Wish me luck!

I couldn't pass up $85 for the MM's at autozone.

Today I hit the first roadblock. I can't figure out how to get the clutch pedal in. The duct for the driver's left air vent is in the way. I assume that pathfinders that were origionally equipped with manual trannys had a different duct. Any reccomendations???

I'll have to look int the seatbelt thing, but it doesn't seem to matter if it is buckled or not. I'm thinking the ignition sounds logical. I'll probably end up re-wiring the chime to work when i want it to since the dome light seems to work still. I just hate to do the wiring.... It'll just be a mess.

I have pulled the transaxle so far. Doesn't sound like much but it involved removing both driveshafts, crossmembers, exhaust Y-pipe (had to break the studs) interior shifter trim, and shifter. I still need to pull the tranny and as sammy said, "put back in, fill 'er up, drive away...." I think i have a handle on the wiring for the most part. I am trained in electronics, but the wiring is the part I am least looking foward to doing.

OK, I do not have a tranny jack but i was planning on rigging some MDF or plate of aluminum with U-bolts to my jack to make a flat platform.

It was meant to be a complement. I'm new at this 4x4 stuff, at least as far as making my own capable vehicle. Slick, i heard you and some others were the ones to go to for advice. Hopefully after this swap gets done and someday probably a 3.3 swap or even a V8 swap or something similar, i'll be a go to guy on the forum. As for now I just want to build a reliable truck for my wife to drive in the New Hampshire snow next year.

OK, my door chimes whenever I open the door (headlights on or off) Does anyone have any insights? A little backround: I bought the truck and it has been doing it ever since. I haven't even found the part that makes the dinging sound. Where is it? I could probably re-wire the thing to only chime when the lights are on, but i want to know what is wrong with it. I've been pre-occupied with the auto-manual swap, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Sean

OK, I got a little distracted today. I went down to Corolla, NC instead to go wheeling on the beach. My daughted cried halfway home because we had to leave. Good use of my time. All I got done today was get the tranny into the shed and started cleaning it up. I was going to get the clutch pedal in. I'll get the clutch pedal in tomorrow hopefully and assuming all parts get here, I should have the auto out and the manual ready to go in on friday. One other positive note: I stopped to help a guy in a really nice semi-restored (no working headlights, no side windows) '71 Camaro with a dead battery. He was in the NAVY but moonlights as a manager at Autozone. So for my trouble, I now get a 20% discount. Word to the wise guys, don't just stop for cute girls. Guys in camaros might have more to offer. (I cleared that comment with my wife for sexism before I wrote it.....haha) Anyone willing/wanting to help can stop by. Portsmouth, VA right next to the mid-town tunnel. Let me know. Rich, that means you!!!

The auto has it's own computer located in the rear of the truck. From what they tell me, NO, It should be fine, but I will have to swap the speed sensor from the newer style with my old-skool one from the auto. I will be taking out the computer and selling it when finished with the swap. (If I am mistaken on anything I post in this thread, Call me out on it and I will eat my words and fix it)

Thanks I might need the luck! This is my first time doing this. By the way, I hear you might be one to ask for help if i get stuck with something. Hopefully everything goes smoothly! (I know it never does)

I'm starting on my auto to manual swap today. I'm going to do my best to take pictures as I go along as well as list part-numbers and prices I paid for everything I used. Hopefully it can be useful to someone in the future. Some do this swap because their auto tranny broke/are bored/prefer manual tranny/afraid of auto tranny breaking, take your pick. My auto is perfectly fine, so I'm in the prefer manual/bored category. SPECS: 1990 2dr Pathfinder 1993(I think) Manual transmision purchased from Pathmaker1 included with tranny: transfer case, clutch pedal master cylinder, dampner and clutch line from master cylinder to dampner, interior floor plates and boot. PURCHASED: Duralast Clutch w/lifetime warranty including pilot/ throwout bearing $150.99 -10%discount (autozone) Flywheel motor to bellhousing bolts (I'll get back to you on this one) Flywheel bolts Rear Main Seal ON ORDER: clutch dampner line part #30652(Pic) Flywheel bolts Rear Main Seal Clutch bolts MORE POSTS TO FOLLOW!!!

I just sent you a message about the Manual Tranny.

That's what i was thinking. When i saw that the splined part of the axle extended out further from the rotor on the driver side than the passenger side, i knew someone had messed with it. I got back under and noticed that there is a gap between the outter boot and the rotor (almost 1/2"). I'm gonna be pulling it apart this weekend probably. Thanks for the help!