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laxman0324

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Posts posted by laxman0324

  1. the tires wil still be 37" (37.4x12.4 to be exact) so you will still have a lot more stress on the IFS components and the side wall will only be 3.7", thats gonna be one hell of a bumpy ride IMO

     

    but more power to ya

     

    it would be cool if he put on those 2 inch tires that are the bud terrain tires, those things look crazy...definitely take pics when you got it done kidrock, thats going to be very unique (as if what you have now isnt)

  2. How the hell are you all leveling up so quick? i have the portable sam and some passive assault armor but i still get my ass whipped by everyone, almost all of my stats are ranked around 500...i build up the lowest one each time...and im applying for the gang now

  3. Hi, i tried 3 different set ups before finder the one that worked,

    I found that a full 2 inch twin system, twin mufflers welded together and twin pipes out the back worked best,

    i got 23kws at the wheels and a great sound.

    Running big pipes makes less back pressure and on a standard motor you will lose bottom end and mid range power.

    Mid range is where i was looking for more power and thats where i got mine, from 2000rpm - 4000rpm i have a 30% increase in torque.

    A more open air box and pod filter helped here too.

    In the dry i can spin the wheels out of corners and drift up to about 110kph(65mph approx)

    In the wet its more that a hand full with the new tighter lsd i have.

    What was the price? What brand muffler and what model did you use? Is there any way you could post a sound clip? Im just nervous about it sounding like crap if i do it.

  4. The friction modifier makes it slip more easily so you don't get shudder around corners or premature lockup. Some people simply don't add any modifier cause they want it to lock more easily. FYI, the LSD's in the R50's are about 50% weaker than the LSD's in the 87-95's. They just don't build 'em like they used to...

     

    found this reply to another persons question on nissanhelp...so what makes it so much weaker?

     

    Also, i have a question about how this all works, what makes the rear diff lock? any time it detects slippage? I know when i was in the mud in 2wd i got both wheels spinning (left some nice tracks :crossedwires: ), but when i did a burnout while pushing the breaks i only had one skid mark from the right tire... also the left rear tire is brand spankin new and the right rear needs replacing this summer if that makes a difference

  5. On these engines, the plugs are right in the middle of the intake and exhaust valves...man those Chevy's are tough to change plugs on too! Go through the wheel well on some!! Think Chevy blazer!

     

    my mercedes was the same way...wheel well lining removed, wheel removed, and still 3 hours of work...and that had 12!!! spark plugs for a V6

  6. Thank you all for the answers.

    Actually I need a vehicle that will handle snow well on highway and country roads.

    I'm not going to do some rock crowling but I might happen to drive in light mud.

    90% I will drive it in the city.

     

    As I understand all mode 4wd (mounted on the console) is more powerful than flour mounted because it has some kind of

    full time 4wd (that should be used in snow/mud normally) and go to low range when going uphill or downhill.

    From what I've seen SEs have flour mounted so they don't have full time 4wd. Is that right?

    Also if I use 4H on snow while driving 60k/h speed will it damage the car?

     

    Sorry if I sound confusing but I hope you will understand what concerns me.

     

    The only 00+ that has the console mounted switch is the LE, it is the 4wd system that is used on the QX4, and the top of the line pathy gets it. so the SE has a part-time floor mounted lever.

     

    Just because your going up/down hill doesnt mean you need 4lo, 4lo is for especially slick situations where you need maximum throttle control, if your only doing some light driving through mud then you probably wont need it.

     

    60 km/h is almost 40 mph, and they say the top speed you should go in in 4wd is 55 in my owner manual. Really, if your going to be moving that fast you shouldnt need to be in 4wd, but if you must have it at that speed i would go with the LE and its full time 4wd...

     

    BTW: the XE in the US was only available in 00 for the facelift, then they dropped the XE and took away some features from the SE to bake it a little cheaper.

  7. i havent focused much on weapons, ive been trying to buy all the best parts for my rig b4 i worried about the weapons...im at like 15k for each stat and level 92 now, own a local fab shop, but only have a 12 gauge...ppl at level 70 keep attacking me and they have the portable sams and all that crap...maybe i should start gettin the weapons and all

  8. idk how to tighten the boot (im sure someone else can help you with that), but in response to what you said on the other forum, i would return the bosch plugs and go get the NGK's, just tell whoever you bought it from what is happening when u use them...i never use bosch anymore since having all of their products fail on my mercedes

  9. I was finally able to get the cable off #6. I put a new plug in #6 and now when I turn on the truck it hesitates and turns off. Does anyone know whats wrong?

    Last week I replaced plug 1-5 and it was running fine until today when #6 was replaced. HELP!

     

    ill state the obvious just to make sure...check to make sure everything is replaced properly and there are no visible faults, if there are then do a little troubleshooting...if you just replaced the wire put back in your old wire and start it up and see if the wire is whats doing it...if you replaced both, try replacing one at a time to find out what is not working properly

  10. Got it back to NY....on my way home for the holidays.

     

    The shop took off the front drive shaft, but didn't touch anything else, I drove it for about 100 miles and it ran fine.

     

    Any websites or posting with instructions on pulling the front diff? How do I tell if I have a WD21? It is a 1995 XE, automatic.

    Thanks for all the advice, so far the biggest expense has been the 1 week rental car - the shop charged $175 for pulling the front drive shaft.

     

    woah, 175 to pull the driveshaft? thats at least 2+ hours of labor they are charging you for, and it would take you maybe 20 mins to pull it on your own...maybe if they pulled the cv's as well...please tell me they gave you the parts back.

     

    and wd21 is the codename for the model range, which is the first pathy ever made-1995, i have a r50, which is a 1996 pathy - 2003 (i believe)...my old mercedes was w163, my accord cd5, ive noticed using the codenames isnt as popular for the pathys as it has been for my other vehicles.

     

    id do what others have said, check for your pathy in a junkyard and pull a diff off of one of those (check the gear ratios first), let us know how it all works out

  11. It all depends. If the hubs are screwed, they'll keep the front end engaged. I'd have him remove the CV joints from the front end as well.

     

    I agree with everything simon has said...its def. not worth dumping your pathy just because you had a little mishap. Get them to remove the front driveline, make sure the cv's as well because with the auto hubs they still spin when the tires spin. Get it home and get it to a mechanic you trust.

     

    You should be able to pull a diff out of one in a junkyard or i think some of the members were saying a certain jeep diff would work there, i would trust them over me as some of them own wd21s and i have an r50.

     

    good luck and let us know how it works out :beer:

  12. Is it difficult to remove the auto hubs?

    Would someone briefly explain how this works to me? The auto hubs are the things in the center of the wheel, correct? and removing them will stop the drive train from spinning?

     

     

    http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...t=0&start=0

     

    check that forum out, i was thinking about getting them and i just got them on...took me about 45 mins max, bout the same if its your first time with this but you know how to do work on the truck, if not a shop could do it and you could probably talk them out of a full hour of labor...maybe

  13. About 260 miles to home...

     

    if anyone would like to buy it, I would gladly sell it at this point.

     

    The shop guy said that it could not be driven in 2 wheel drive because the "differential will still spin" - in other words there will still be spinning gears (or spinning mass of metal, given that the gears are probably a mess) which could again heat up and cause a fire. Does this make sense to those of you with more knowledge of the mechanics of this truck?

     

    if you get a set of manual locking hubs for it you would then stop the front drivetrain from spinning even in 2wd and you could limp it home, i just got one for my r50 for $100, with that low of mileage i would not junk the thing. If you really want to though, PM me with the price.

  14. i hear ya about some ppl takin it to seriously, i mugged one guy randomely and every time hes online he tries to mug me and loses, probably 10 times or so now, and i just mug him back and take his cash...he is successful in trashing my rig though...

     

    right now im level 57, I have a pull strap, super grabbers, injected V6, the one ton tcase, and light duty chrome, and the farthest trail ive beaten so far is the rig snapper...i only own a three car garage, i make no money

     

    btw my number is 8187

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