BobLoblaw

I recently pulled a faded green hatch off a pathy from a local wreck yard. I want to spend as little money as possible to paint it black. There is no rust on it. Do you think I could just paint over the green without priming? I'll clean the hatch, obviously, but I just don't want to start buying spray guns and stuff. I want to do it with a spray can! I know that sounds bush league (and it is), but I just want to get this new hatch on! Also, is there a place that sells the 'Nissan Pathfinder XE' decals that you see on the rear hatch? Any recommendations for the cheapest paint job possible for my rear hatch? Thanks

Yeah, I actually noticed that it is actually plastic, not metal, like I previously thought. Do you (or does anyone) have these 2 pieces intact? Were you able to get it out/put it in without too much trouble or was it a pain?

I want to know how to properly remove the (exterior) door weather stripping that surrounds the window on the outside. These are a series of metal pieces, not rubber. There 5 pieces in all I believe (per front door), 3 pieces that run the length of the window, and 2 corner 'L' pieces. They act as the first barrier between the rubber weather stripping and the outside. How do I remove this without damaging it?

Thanks, that's a great site! It says: "Stabilizer Bracket Sold Separately". What is this and do I need to buy it if my Pathy is stock?

So now for my last question: Where is the best place online or otherwise to buy Pro-comp shocks? What about in Canada? Also, is there a specific ES3000 part number(s) that fit Pathy's? Mine's a 94 XE.

How long did it take for you to install them? Was it easy? What tools did you need? Actually, I was wondering if someone could write a "how-to replace your shocks" (step-by-step). I need to do it but I don't want to get into the job and then realize it's too much for me.

What number are the pro-comp you speak of? ES1000? Which height should I get? 0-1.5' or 0-2.5'? What does that even mean? What advantages do I get by moving up in price; in laymens terms (40 bucks more for es3000)? Once again, I rarely offroad, but I don't want to kill the shocks if I do. Do I also need to buy the steering stabilizers? My pathy is all stock? One more thing. In the pro-comp .pdf, it talks about Nissan 'hardbody'. What is that?

Do you remember what size the nuts and bolts were? Might as well replace the hardware when I do it.

Sorry but the possible hijack here but: I've never done a shock replacement before. Would it be easy for me to do? What tools do I need? Also, I'm rarely offroad but I want my truck to be capable. What shocks are for me? $200 or less.

I did the washer fix and it worked BUT....Now the rear interior light doesn't turn on at all when the hatch is open. It turns on if you switch it on but not when the hatch is open. Is this supposed to happen when you do the washer fix?

Great topic. My 94 XE Standard has no cup holders at all. What are my options (other than the roll of duct tape LOL!!! )?

I didn't actually open the whole hatch tho, just the glass when it started happening again. Have you done the washer fix before? Do I just need one washer per bolt?

After a couple weeks of joyous driving with no door sensor problems, opened my glass on the rear hatch to put some stuff in the truck. I shut it kinda hard (hands were full!) and BOOM! Door sensor problems once again! I've read the topics about fixing the full rear hatch gate sensor by adding washers to the latch on the body (what size of washers did you guys use BTW?) but this is the glass sensor? Is this fixable? What should I do?

^ What he said. BTW, I haven't tried to fix it yet. I don;t know anything about ECU error codes. Could it be a dirty terminal under the hood? Where does it connect?

Okay, I check again (in the daylight) and saw that there is a sticker under my hood that says it was serviced at 186K. I'm at 216K, so I think I'm good. I so happy I don't have to repair this. What is the life of the timing belt (in KM's)? When should I get it serviced next?

What does this repair cost at a shop? Should I get my exhaust mani. studs replaced at the same time? Are 300zx studs the best to use and will the shop need to modify them at all to fit?

I keep reading horror stories about timing belts going and people's trucks being ruined - needless to say, I'm scared that my '94 Pathy with 215K could have this problem. How do I know if it needs replacing?

But what do you think is wrong with my tach (in your personal opinion)? Where should I start? Is it common? Should I even try to fix it?

Thanks for your help! I just went and pulled the hatch out and it was surprisingly easy. When I reinstall, what type of adhesive should I use on the hinges? Is the rear hatch lock as easy as the door locks to replace?? Id like to just take the lock from the old hatch and put it in the new one.

What do I need (tool-wise) to properly remove the rear hatch completely (hinges, wires, supports)? Is it possible to change locks from one hatch to another (without extreme difficulty)? thanks guys!

Do you have a pic of the rear end? We could swap!

I just noticed that there is a box, with a green light (and a red one but it wasn't on) underneith my front passenger seat. It also looked like it has a little adjustment knob on it too. What is this? What do those lights mean? The ABS is under the driver's seat right?

Can I get at the signal wire without removing the entire dash? How do I check error codes? I've never done that before.

This is all kinda new to me. How do I get good results from a home paint job? Steps? Preparation? Tools (sanding)? Or can I just paint right over the old colour (I'll be painting it black)? I have no painting tools, so I'd probably spray paint it with colour matching paint. What would a shop charge to paint just the rear hatch?

I'm just wondering what a good price would be for a good condition, entire rear hatch for a '94 XE? Particularly the hatch with the 3rd brake light/washer jet combo in the top-center. Anyone have a black one in good condition?