BobLoblaw

Thanks man. Here's another question: My current tires are P235/75/R15. I've seen tires measured another way (e.g. 31x10.5 r15). How do these tires compare? Most importantly, what is the largest/normal/smallest tire size that will fit on my stock 15" steel rims, and a stock body/ride height? As you can tell, I know very little about tires.

Thanks for all the tips guys, I have put a blanket over it for now. The reason I can't really do the tinting yet, is because I'm planning on replacing my rear hatch (anyone got a good BLACK rear hatch?), and I want the glass from the donor hatch (maybe the rear defrost will work on the new glass!!!). It was definitely amateur night with this robbery. The guy stole just the faceplate, the change in my ashtray, the sub (left the amp which was screwed to the back of my rear seats), and put a couple cigarettes out on the carpet. My gf swore she locked all the doors, which I believe, but I think she left one of the rear windows down partially. Her mistake cost me another $400. If only this happened near Valentine's day or her birthday, I might be able to salvage this situation in a positive way and say that all the new equipment is a "gift". BTW, if anyone ever come across a Panasonic CQC5305 faceplate, let me know!

Hey guys, some $%^$%!#@$ got into my Pathy a few days ago and stole just the faceplate (why? I don't know) and the sub, and a few other things. I have recently got a new deck and sub. My question to you is: What is the best way/place to screw down the sub box so that it can't be removed easily or quickly? I thought that some of the spare tire mounting points (they aren't in use right now) could be used but I wanted to see if you guys had experience with this stuff first. I also heard there was some 'velco-straps' that could be used, but I'm not sure about that. To tell you the truth, car stereos are not my strong suit. I just want a potential thief to see that the sub ain't going anywhere!!! Any tips on this would be appreciated.

I gotta get some new/used tires for my pathy, but I'm not sure what to get. I have the stock, steel Pathy rims (15inch), right now she's got P235/75/R15 on there. It is almost entirely used on-road. Will a certain tire be noticeably quieter? There is a set of used Traction Kings near where I live: http://classifieds.castanet.net/showproduc...6302&cat=37 What are your thoughts on these, all things being equal? Does siping make the ride louder? Is siping always a good thing?

Hey guys, I was down at the Nissan Dealership, and I asked the guy about the imfamous DRL module that causes near every Pathy I see to 'wink' at me. He said it was $140 bucks (ouch) and that "I couldn't miss it behind the battery". Well, I must be weird because I can't find it unless it looks different than I think. I found a series of fuses that had the 'fuel pump', ; 'L&R Head Light' fuses and a few others but this isn't the DRL module. Where is this thing? Anyone got a pic of their engine compartment? thanks

I used to have a 93 T-Bird, but it wasn't the SuperCoupe model. It was a great, reliable car. Now, I'm thinking of getting a 92 T-Bird SC and was wondering if they shared the same reliability as the normal T-Bird. Have any of you guys and gals ever owned/worked on a T-Bird SC? If so, tell me about it! Thanks

Okay, I'll try that. This problem is really weird. When the engine is warm, it'll start and run like normal. If left idling, the idle will progressively get worse.....but not so bad that it stalls. The dash lights will flicker. The part that baffles me is that it would run properly at first. The white smoke that I saw (that started this topic) hasn't come back at all. Thanks again to everyone who has posted. I really do appreciate everyone's ongoing help.

I did a compression test with a mechanic friend of mine and each of my cylinders checked out at approx 140psi, which are good test results (anything lower than 110psi is bad I think). That's what makes this problem so weird. Where is my coolant going? Why is the idle so poor, but not poor enough for the car to completely stall?

My Pathy is pretty hard to shift into first gear (e.g. at stop lights), even when it's warm. The rest of the gears are fine. What could be causing this specifically (syncros?)

Hey guys, Thanks for you help. I am a member at zcar.com but you guys have been more helpful that the Z guys!!! I sure am happy I bought a Pathy! NPORA 4 life. I just wanted to say that when I started my car up today there was no white smoke at all. I let the car cool down then just started it again 5 mins ago. Once again, no white smoke. This problem is really starting to bug me. Why won't this $#^$#!#$ just run properly!!! Could it be a failing fuel pump? How do I test if my fuel pump is working properly? Would a valve problem cause a rough idle and loss of acceleration? Any other theories on what could be wrong are welcomed with open arms! Have a good weekend everyone.

So the failed head gasket is the reason for my poor idle? Just wondering, what does a head gasket replacement cost at a shop normally? Is there anything else I should do while replacing the head gasket (e.g. valves). Ghostpath, do you have experience with L28 engines? It sounds like you know about them a bit. Could it be anything else? The white smoke is just here until the car warms up. Someone told me (not a Pathy person) that it could be my PCV valve. Is there any chance of this?

My '81 Datsun/Nissan 280zx has been the most reliable car I ever owned. Just recently, the engine has started to miss and 'pop' a little bit, and coolant has been disappearing slowly. The car has been hesitant, and jerky since the idle problem, and will nearly stall at stoplights. Sometimes it will idle fine, but more often than not, it's rough. I replaced all the fuel injectors and check the connections: everything seems like it's working well (in theory) but the bad idle persists. This morning, I started it up and noticed that there was white smoke coming from the exhaust until the car was at operating temp, then it went away. My guess is that it has to do with my loss of coolant (smoke didn't smell like burning oil). Could this be the cause of my rough idle? What should I do to fix this? I should also note that I have cleaned all possible connections with a file and alcohol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

Fueler. I have never done this before, so please bear with me (I'm extremely noob when it comes to car stereos). Where would I get the universal wiring harness you speak of? What do you mean "make a new harness"? I did get a different brand (I got a Panasonic and I have a Clarion installed). Are the wires connected with a special type of connector? I can get it installed by a shop for $55. Should I just save myself a headache or is this a do-able job, even for me?

Here's another question. Because I already have a deck/amp/sub installed already, when I replace the deck, will the speaker/sub/power etc. plugs fit into the new deck? Are most connections "universal" for all decks?

Would you guys recommend a Bosch or a NTK o2 sensor? Bosch is $20 cheaper if that helps you decide.

Topic. I only want to replace it if I have to. So far I have no 'check engine' light coming on in my 94 Pathy XE.

Wow, thanks for the diagram! I'll be sliding under my Pathy tomorrow (in the snow) to check it out. I was going to replace my current o2 sensor with a NTK (Part# 24157), $86.00. Is this the best option or are their better/cheaper o2 sensors?

Okay, I'm finally getting to take a look at the pathy and I can't find the bloody o2 sensor. Mind you, it is -20C almost and pitch black (other than my . Where is the o2 sensor located and what's the best way to attack this thing?

Hey guys, I'm fairly inexperienced with car stereos and amps/subs so bear with me... My Pathy (94 XE), came with an aftermarket deck, amp, and 1 sub. The deck has been acting up and I want to replace it without losing the amp or sub. What should I be looking for in a deck to keep my current amp and sub? I know that preouts are the key thing to look for (I think). How many sets of preouts should my new deck have in order to keep my current amp/sub working normally? If you need more info just ask, but be sure to tell me where to look as I have no amp/sub experience. Thanks

Overall, would you say it's a pretty easy job though (if it's not spot welded that is!)?

I read in another topic that the newer model Pathy ('96+) needed a special tool/socket to be removed. Do I need a special tool to remove/replace my o2 sensor in my '94? Any tips for easy removal/replacement would also be appreciated. I got to deal with a few feet of snow here!

K, thanks. I know they are different. I just thought I'd ask in the same topic because I knew you'd check this one

Ghostpath, have you replaced your o2 sensors before? What kind of o2 sensor did you use? How many o2 sensors are there on WD21 Pathy's? Sorry, I don't have a Haynes manual and my g/f has the truck!

Sorry, I should have posted that I'm in Canada, and Autozone doesn't ship here! Damn them.

Could some one please tell me the part numbers for a 94 XE Coolent Temp Sensor? Where is the best/cheapest place to get these? Also, If there is a better plug/wires than NGK for my Pathy, let me know. I've always found NGK to be the best for Nissans (NTK for o2 sensorws).