BobLoblaw

Once the pathy is warm, it doesn't hesitate anymore. It drives regularly, except it is too rich (does feel like 'limp' mode once it's warm). Could it still be a MAS? Are those relatively easy to replace? Also, are you talking about removing the Mass air flow sensor and cleaning it with brake cleaner or the IACV?

It idles fine all the time. It revs fine for about 5-10 secs after initial startup, then begins to do this stall-out when the gas is pushed until the engine is warm. Funny you should mention that (the rich smell), because I have been getting about 200km per tank these days; I was getting 350km before winter/this idle problem. I expect to lose some fuel economy in winter and using 4wd but that is ridiculous. I replace the water temp sensor so I know it's not that. I hoping to attempt a code retrieval after New Years when it is supposed to get warmer. Car problems are killing me right now; I have a Maxima that is screwing with me too! Happy New Year Everyone!

No, I haven yet. My bad. the holiday season is so busy. Here is the volt meter I am looking at: http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_...fromSearch=true If there is a better one, please let me know, especially if it is cheaper! This might sound daft but once a get this meter, how do I properly test the current. I want to at least do it properly!!

Well, thanks for the help guys. Do you guys know how to bleed the heating/cooling system? I might try this before I make the thermostat change but I think I'm going to try to change the thermostat tomorrow because it will only be -5C. It has been -25 --35C for about 3 weeks; I'm not doing car repairs in that temp with no garage! But if you know how to bleed a system, please let me know. I only want to change the thermostat if I have to. Are there any standard steps to follow when changing a themostat? Should the car be cold? I've never done one before but I can't image it would be that hard.

No I did not - I've never done it before. As soon as the temp gets a little warmer, I'll try it with the instructions in the 'garage' forum. BTW, what is 'CEL'? Is there a chance the IACV is just stuck and needs a good whack to loosen it up?

I really appreciate your help man. Thanks for the pic. I found it but haven't taken it off yet. It's pretty busy around here these days! As a update of sorts, I let the Pathy run until it got warm and the stalling went away. I had the hood open and just kept revving it a little and eventually it was just like normal. It's sounds like it probably is the part you said, indigent. At autozone these IACV-air regulators are $130-160 US!! Maybe someone here has a spare working one.....or this one could be fixed! Does this part only function in the extreme cold? Oh yeah, and the phatg20.net site doesn't work for me. Did it move? Is the manual a .pdf file you could send me? Thanks again. Merry Christmas.

Thanks for your help! Do you have any pics of the location of this regulator, or a precise description of where it is? I'm not going to be able to find this on my own. Do I need a volt meter to do this? I don't have one.....yet. Will any generic o-ring do? Does anyone know the diameter? This problem is a crippling blow to me at this time of the year; I'm stranded!!!

I started my 94 Pathy XE this morning to warm it up; leaving it in neutral. Everything seemed alright. 10 mins later, I went to back it out (in 4WH) and it stalled. When I tried to restart it, it wouldn't go. I popped the hood, checked to see if anything was leaking or any smells - none. Then I tried to start it again, it fired up - blowing a huge cloud of dark smoke out the exhaust. I was so happy that it started as I had to get to work.....until I tried to back it out again. STALL. Left it for a few mins / started it / tried to drive it forward back into my parking spot - STALL. So it will idle, but stall if regular gas pedal pressure is given, or alternatively, will almost stall then rev very high if I just stomp on the gas while trying to move forward or backward. I went behind the truck and pushed it back into the spot. That's when I noticed a gas smell; either gas ot some very rich exhaust (it was belching smoke after all). It seemed to be coming from the back end somewhere. It has been really cold here for a couple weeks (-20 -30 C). What does this problem sound like to you? My first guess was fuel pump, but I'm not sure.

Thanks for everyone's help! Okay, I did a bleeding of the system it didn't appear to change anything significantly. I hope to replace the thermostat soon and I'll let you know how that goes. Do I need some liquid gasket to do this job properly? Is so, is there a certain kind that is best?

Yup, the temp gauge is fine. It's pretty frustrating. It's getting colder and I'm driving with minimal heat now!

Hey guys, I posted this problem at another Nissan site, but you guys are more reliable so I thought I'd ask here too. My 1990 Maxima does not seem to be pumping out heat the way I want it too. [Definitely nowhere near as hot as my Pathy!] Is there anything I can do to fix this? What could be wrong? I should also mention that the Maxima has auto climate controls and they seemed to work fine in the summer with the A/C. Now that it's cold, I turn it up to 32C (which is max heat), and it just comes out moderately warm. Please help!

I'm just too scared to do anything with the actual wiring. I'm bound to F it up and then I won't have any lights!!! I guess I'll just try taking the headlight switch apart. So just to be sure, I take the switch apart and make sure those contacts are firmly touching each other (do I bend them a bit?)

I saw many of those posts, but honestly, there were too many! Is there a definitive headlight switch/DRL module repair topic somewhere? I also noticed today that turning my highbeams on causes the left light to go out as well. I assume this is b/c of the switch too.

Okay, great. So you think that part is the problem?

The problem is, is that I'm completely useless when it comes to wiring problems. Why would this start now? I've changed nothing in the truck. Where should I check first? And where is this elusive DRL module? I can't find it.

Sorry for the delay. Here's a pic. It's a cell phone pic but you'll see where it is. The thread pokes out from the steel part of the hatch, and the nut goes on it. How can I fix this?

Hey guys, I've got a headlight issue. First off, my daytime running lights only work on my left side. That's not such a big deal. 75% of the Pathy's I drive by are "winking" at me too. I heard that there is some kind of module (I haven't located it yet) that is the cause for this problem. Is this correct? Will a good cleaning of this module fix it? Here's where the real problem begins. Recently, when turning my low-beams on, the left light has not come on. Usually, if I flip my lights on/off a few times and the both come on normally but it's a little troubling. Sometimes, I'll hit a speed bump and the left one will go out. It usually comes on if I hit another bump. What's going on with this headlight system? How do I fix this low-beam problem?

I just finished replacing my rear hatch!! I was soooo happy. My XE now has a near mint SE hatch with the cool LED brake light and a working wiper. So awesome. Anyway, I was finishing up and tightening the 2 dome nuts that hold the strut that holds the rear window up, when SNAP!!! It busted off. It was the lower of the 2 nuts on the right side. It was the only F#@$ up of the 5 hour project (other than some linkage issues - if you've done this you know what I mean). I was crushed! Will this broken bolt/nut effect anything that much? How does one fix a break like this - the thread is sticking out of the hatch and the dome nut screws onto it. Is it expensive?

Biodiesel just got here but it's rare. There's nothing fishy about the job. You are an owner operator for a package delivery company. Essentially it's your own business. You work a particular 'route'. This particular route requires 130-145kms a day - which to me sounded like a lot. The company gives you about $18 buck a day to help with gas. My question was exactly what you stated: What are the gas mileage (KM's) of a diesel cube van? Thanks for your google results tho. I want to be able to do the math and figure out if it is worth while buying a van and maintaining it for the money they are offering (roughly $60-63K). The price of gas makes me worried as it could go up to astronomical heights. I was hoping that someone here would have experience with these vans, and be able to tell the maintainence costs and the fuel economy (they calculate the new fuel economy in an empty van, which is completely different from what I'd be driving). also, the vans for around $10000 are high KM's and not as fuel efficient as the ones you mentioned in the tests. I do appreciate all your help tho. Keep it coming if you find out more. It's a pretty big decision for me.

Hey guys, I have never had to remove the ceiling panel of my Pathy before. What is the best, and easiest way to remove it without breaking anything? Is the ceiling panel 2 pieces? Keeping in mind that I really just need the back of the panel removed. Also, not ceiling panel related, what is a good adhesive to use on the rear hatch's main hinges? When I removed the donor hatch from the wrecked Pathy, I noticed that there was adhesive sticking the hinge to the truck as well as the 2boltsx2hinge fastening it to the truck. Thanks

Hey guys. Recent a 'route' came open near my home town for a package delivery service. They require me to buy and paint a 14-16' cube van. The job seems to pay fairly well, but with gas ever on the rise, and team that with repairs, it could make the profits much smaller. What kind of gas mileage does a 14-16' cub van have? The route requires up to 130-145KM's a day. Is propane a better alternative if available? I've never been an owner operator or owned a cube van, so anything anyone could tell me about the job or the van (especially) would be appreciated. Thanks

Hey guys, I own a '94 XE Pathy. I have 2 SE donar hatches that I'm using to replace my rusted out one (gotta move a few parts over from the green hatch to the wanted black hatch). Anyway, There seems to be alot of motors and keyless entry stuff on the SE hatches that might not be on the XE hatch (my gf has taken it out for the next few hours so I can;t check). Can any of this be removed? Have any of you done this before? I just finished snaking a good wiring harness into the new black hatch - that was a kick to groin, but it's done! Any advice or tips would be appreciated for the rest of the process. I'm going to have to reconnect all those metal tube pieces that open and lock hatch/glass too. When my gf gets home, I'm going to try to switch locks and install the 2 latches (glass and hatch). Is this easy? I just don't want to F$@# anything up too bad to start the week off. Any help is appreciated.

Is it faster or slower by 4mph?

Is that 3 or 4 mph (so 5 or 6 kph in my case then right?) faster than normal or slower than normal on the speedo? How is the odometer affected?

Here'a another noob question: How do bigger tires (I'm going from P235/75/R15 -> 31"/10.5"/R15)(not a big change) change the ride/handling/fuel economy of the Pathy? If they do at all.