sentra368

Thank you once again for your kind and generous offer, but i think i have the metal valve covers sourced. I just have to find time to go get them. Yes, shipping to Canada is a bit of an issue, but on a positive note, i am about 90 minutes from the Montana border. I can have the items shipped to a town close to the border, drive across, and pick them up. Ever since the Covid border closures and the restrictions, i had avoided crossing, as it had become just too inconvenient. Work is a little busy right now, and that's why i haven't been able to spend the required time on the project, but i almost have the list ready. Scouring many threads, in which helpful guys like you have contributed, has helped.

hawairish, thank you very much for your R&D and the detailed response. It is really helpful. I live in a small town, with nearest not-so-well stocked auto parts store, in another small town 50 km away. A larger city is 115 km away, so being able to pop into the store to buy a part is inconvenient. That's the reason for being risk averse and planning everything, so i do not run into any issues that cause long delays. I am in the process of gathering up a parts list, which i will post into another thread, so others in my position, or generally, can benefit. Getting some of the molded hoses is going to be challenging. They will have to come from US, and with shipping charges being what they are nowadays, i know this job is going to get a bit pricey, as there will be multiple shipments from different locations. You guys are pretty lucky.

Doing some research, it appears this guy was able to install metal valve covers, using 2001 ignition coils and also has the mounting screws in place: https://forums.nicoclub.com/vq35-valve-covers-t607238-30.html#p6719430

Let's say, against your advise (because i am being stupid), i got the metal valve covers. Would the below help me get the job done: (1) Get the 2001 ignition coil for the #1 cylinder; and (2) Either one of (a), (b), or (c): (a) Buy ignition coil boots for #2-#6 cylinders for the 2001 and install them on my 2003 ignition coils. Maybe that's not physically possible? (b) Shave off some material from the tips of the ignition coil boots for the #2-#6 cylinders on my 2003, so that they seat properly. I could use one #2-#6 cylinder ignition coil boot from a 2001 as a reference for length. (Both (a) and (b) do not solve not being able to use the mounting screws issue, though, correct? Would longer or shorter screws work?) (c) Buy 2001 ignition coils for the #2-#6 cylinders. Would i still not be able to use the mounting screws? I feel like taking this job on and document it, so others can benefit.

CamperDan, thank you for the offer, but a few hours after my last post, i got a lead on a set. if it doesn't pan out, i will get in touch with you.

Dbot, thank you for the photos and the information. During my research, i came across some G35 owners using R50 metal valve covers to replace their plastic ones. Some modifications had to be performed, however. Was 2001 the only year that came with metal valve covers?

The QX4 is parked for now, as it's a second vehicle. Since you say that the seals may start leaking once valve covers are removed, i am have no choice but to get new covers. I just do not want to take a risk and then be forced to do the job again. My string preference is for metal valve covers, but if i cannot find them, i will go with OEM plastic ones. Just bought an after-market plastic valve cover for a friend's 2002 Sentra, and it doesn't fit. The spark plug tube seals aren't wide enough, and an OEM cover is needed now, which are very hard to find and pricey.

Thank you for the response, hawairish. The vehicle has 195,000 kms (102,000 miles) and is in pretty good shape. I only thought of the valve covers, because i thought while i am in there, i better take care of that, too, so i am not coming back because of leaking spark plug tube seals.

The other question i had in mind, should i just go ahead and the use the existing plastic ones? I have no evidence or reason to believe right now anything is wrong other than the valve cover gasket.

I have a 2003 QX4 with plastic valve covers that are leaking and require a gasket replacement. I was thinking that i replace the plastic valve covers with metal ones while doing the gasket job. My question is, can the metal ones be found with some effort, or should i not bother? A quick google and forums search wasn't very helpful. Also, did 2000-2001 QX4s come with the metal covers, or did the Pathfinders have them, too?

PrecisionX, can you provide an update?

This thread with photos that has given me some ideas, but i am still not sure.

Hello guys. I have seen a number of posts here on the front subframe drop to lift R50 Pathfinders. Can the same process to be used to remove the existing subframe and replace it with another one, without having to use an engine hoist to support the engine? If yes, does it add much complexity to the job? Please provide your comments.

Also, check the pulley. Get a stethoscope or a long flat-head screwdriver and listen if pulley is done.

I agree with EXPLORx4. Start with tightening with belt. If that doesn't work, consider replacing the belt. Three years isn't that old, but who knows, it may have wore out. Which brand is it? Earlier this year, my 2002 Sentra had almost the same symptoms as yours. Given the age of my vehicle, I also thought that my power steering pump was done, but when i checked the belt, it appeared a bit loose. I tightened the 5-6 year old Gates belt and haven't had an issue since then.

Thank you for the response, guys. XPLORx4, you referring to the washer that goes into knuckle?

I reckon the hole in the knuckle from the back would need to be plugged up to prevent dirt and debris from getting it.

I needed to remove the inner tie rod, and didn't have the tool typically used. You know, the one with the hollow pipe and crowfeet adapters. So, i got one loaned to me from the local parts store (Canadian Tire), but the it only had 3 adapters, all of which were too small for the R50. I searched on Youtube and the found the following video. I didn't think it would work, but decided to give it shot. Well, i am pleased to report it worked great in removing the inner tire rod. It actually bit on the tie rod too good. I cant seem to get it off now, although i haven't put much effort into it. I haven't installed the new one yet. I didn't use as many extensions as the guy in the video did, just a 4 inch extension and a 1/2 inch ratchet, and the job was done.

The welding work looks good; got the job done.

What issues could i run into if i were to drive a few hundred meters (or kilometers) in the city, on a paved road, with the front passenger-side CV axle completely removed? I have looked at it closely, and given my rather limited knowledge, i can't see any issues. Please share your thoughts.

My apologies. I was wrong earlier. I had looked at a ACDELCO tie rod end, which was a 555, not a lower ball joint. The part 555 number is: Sankei SB-4842. A pair is available on Ebay.

Hello. From my research, Sankei 555 may be the better brand. Made in Japan, but a bit more expensive compared to others. The other day i was looking on RockAuto, and the ACDELCO ball joint was a 555. Have a look.