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StatutoryApe

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Posts posted by StatutoryApe

  1. Conserve momentum. Inflate your tires. Reduce your weight. Accelerate slowly. Use cruise control when possible on flat ground. Do a tune-up. Clean your MAF sensor and throttlebody. All these things can help mileage.

     

    Google "hypermiling" for some more ideas.

     

    what's cool is that i already drive like that before i even read about hypermiling. it's just common sense to me :tongue:

     

    another thing i do is take corners kinda fast to conserve my momentum/speed. you gotta let off the gas when you come up to the turn, brake a lil bit just before the turn, and accelerate outta the apex. if i can, on a right turn, i'll go really fast and swing out to the farthest lane to the left so that i can keep my speed and not have to slow down just to stay in the farthest lane to the right.

     

    basically drive like a race car driver--efficiently. and by that i mean try to keep your speed (and thus, momentum)

  2. nice one sean.

     

    ok, so it's set........ SATURDAY THE 10TH FRANK RAINES.

     

    please let me know who will be meeting at my house (so I know how many eggs to buy lol!)

     

    i figure 8:00am at my hacienda....... 9:00-9:30am in Patterson? or is that too early for long distance travellers?

     

    who all wants to stay down here on the Friday night so they don't have to get up at 3am to drive?

    and i am more than likely going to take the friday off.... especially if i can't get a free exchange on the starter, then i have to buy a new one pay day (Thurs) :FartExplode-vi:

     

    i think i'll just meet up at Jax and eat on the road to save time/ sleep in more :tongue:

    Patterson is less than 2 hours away for me too

  3. Good list Slick

     

    Might I add, I like to test my alternator and give it a good pre-spray to prevent mud and dirt sticking to it. Also, don't forget to let people know where you are going and when you should be back. NEVER GO ALONE unless help is close by!!!

     

    don't forget to check you spare tire pressure too!

     

    pre spray with what? i'm curious.

     

    i hope there's no mud at raines. i hate mud :thumbsdown:

  4. Still have to tune mine as well. need to borrow my friends swr meter.

     

    FRS is only better since most people have them or have enough of them to give to everybody.

     

    yeah, i forgot what that was called. but mine's around 1.75 :crossedwires:

  5. for sure...along with all other "engineering/physics" in the real world...they teach you these BS equations that aren't true in real scenario's and you go to get the real world calcs and you have to make the right assumptions to have a valid analysis and then you have to convince someone else it's true...they've got me doing loads reports and stress analysis' here at work and I hate it b/c I suck at making assumptions and I'm either super conservative or I make one wrong assumption so I can do the calc and it's not applicable according to the boss

     

    yeah, the only way to get real information is to do a field test, mythbusters-style.

     

     

    and to actually contribute to this thread:

     

    try to coast for a while before completely stopping. say you come up to a stop light and you're about 100 yards away. just let off the gas and roll to a stop. best-case scenario is by the time u get to the limit line, the light will have changed to green and you still have some momentum so that you don't have to start from a stand-still.

  6. Remove the shifter ball, put a jack handle on the shifter rod. and bend it forward. That is what I did with mine. It is also possible that you could remove your rubber dust cover and you can get into 4wl without it until you get the other shifter. Hard body shifters are longer so it will still be at the same height as prior to the body lift, but I think you might still have to bend it, not 100% sure.

     

    Mark

     

    i'll definitely have to try that

     

    This gps location on google maps. the green patch. Frank Raines Park

     

    37.420443,-121.372495

     

    you just reminded me that i have a gps unit! (it's new, that's why i didn't remember i had it)

     

    and just so everyone knows, i don't have too much trail gear (i'll go out and buy some recovery straps tho)

    since i'm new to wheelin and all

  7. sorry to thread jack...but yea I think we both agree that tire pressure in this application isn't going to gain fuel mileage :deadhorse:

     

    actually, in my last post i said that less air pressure = less air in the tire = more heat = more energy loss. so by that reasoning *which was the theory suggested to me by my physics professor-i don't know how it works in the real world* less tire pressure means less fuel economy. but i'm no expert.

     

    well all that different friction theory sounds way too complicated for me anyway. lol.

  8. ok your right on my terminology but yes contact patch does have a lot with the force of friction being resulted into the system...This is why dragsters have wide tires and not some regular street tire on the back of them...If the same compoound/dia were used for a dragster but one was half the width of the other and everything else in the system remains constant the one with half the contact patch will slip more...it's also a function of the rubber compound (a stiffer rubber will provide a lesser resultant force than a soft "sticky" tire

     

    A tire to the road is much different than a block to sandpaper or a book on a slope as typical statics's problems portray them...so yea my terminology was fuzzy but the concept is true...we talked a lot in RVD (road vehicle dynamics) of how rubbers and adhesives do not typically follow standard equations of friction (which is not 100% true its a matter of finding the equivalent coef of friction for the specific tire and applying it to the equation)

     

    but any how tire pressure is insignificant to loosing MPG's

     

    no chit? i guess if different rubbers don't typically follow the standard equations of friction, then i don't really know what i'm talking about. lol.

     

    and i'm just going off of what my physics professor said. he also brought up the question "why do dragsters have wide tires?" he told us it was because since the tire is bigger and has more air in it, it's harder to heat up. and since energy is lost as heat, it would be a good thing to have a big tire that's hard to heat up.

    but i could be mistaken. i can't remember 100% of what my professor said because i was spacing out at the time.

  9. more surface area contact doesn't = a rise in the coefficient of friction (the coefficient stays the same. the CoF of rubber on asphalt is 0.5-0.8).

    the amount of force that friction exerts is equal to the coefficient of friction times the weight of the truck. the amount of surface area in contact has nothing to do with it.

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