systemf

There are different rotors sizes across the board for R50s. Not to mention the obvious 99/99.5 rotor size difference: It looks like there are several size breaks for early R50s to 99 10/95 - 08/97 have one size part number 40206-0W001- 08/97 - 12/98 have another size part number 40206-1W200-

I have beaten the crap out of my rack and it has 200 miles on it and no problems. My intermediate steering box has some play, but I have a replacement.

I have had the bushings around the rack and pinion go bad causing a clunk.

Use a Digital multimeter if you have one. Also the coil can be tested to see if it is good or bad. Let me see if I can find the numbers. Okay, this is easier if you have the FSM, but.... From the little 2 prong terminal on the distributor you should have .5 to 1.0 ohm between the two at 77 degrees F or higher. From the right prong (plug disconnected with the tab on top facing it) to the coil output (distributor cap off should have a spring in it) you should have 12k ohms. If both of this is true then the coil is OK The way this works is the ECU controls a power transsitor (in the distributor) that turns the coil on and off. The FSM has all the information for testing this setup, but more than likely your problem is much more simple.

It could, but not likely. Have you removed the distributor, while removed pluged all the connections in, put the cap on, hook up a plug wire and get it close to a ground, turn the ignition on, and then turn the distributor by hand? Not only should you get a spark but you should hear all of the injectors firing while you turn the distributor. You can take resistive measurments on the distributor to check if it is ok.

If the distributor is that far off it could be sparking but it will not fire making it seem like it has no spark. Also, the camshaft position sensor controls injector firing and if the distributor is off injector firing will be off as well. After my first timing belt I put the plug wires on wrong and I thought something was really wrong. The engine would just crank and nothing would happen.

Yeah gawd forbib *sarcasim*

Comparison of R200 high pinion and R200 low pinion ring gears

Note: H233b is the model number of all pathfinder rear diffs (except maybe 4cyls) We all have 3rd member diffs. WD21 95 and earlier pathfinders have 31 spline diffs and the lock rite will fit into the carrier of an open 31 spline diff. R50s 96 - 04 have 33 spline diffs with larger shafts and the lock rite will not work for an open diff although most are lsd The arb for 96-04 33 spline H233b diffs replaces the ENTIRE carrier so it will work for a LSD diff or an open diff. Here are pics of the arb diff. The 3rd member empty Here is a picture of the carrier, this is the front diff NOT the H233b but similar, notice how the ARB IS the carrier, it doesn't use the existing carrier...so since it replaces the carrier it can go in any axle designed for regardless of the type of carrier (lsd or open)

Does your timing belt have marks on it? If so when the engine is at TDC just put the belt on correctly dotted line on passenger side, don't worry about cam marks to back guard they are always a little off. Put the cap back on and make sure you are pointing at #1 on the distributor rotor. I know it sounds stupid but make sure your wires are on the right place on the cap. Check the cap for cracks, this can cause it not to fire to each plug sometimes. If it was working before it is almost ALWAYS something simple.

You probably already know this, but bleed the hell out of the porportioning valve first, assuming you have one. Otherwise the pedal will be spongy.

Forgot to mention: THe manual has lower gears and drives much better on the highway with greater control of the vehicle. 96 and later manuals have taller gears. 95 and earlier have lower gears but a hole must be drilling in the bellhousing for the crankshaft position sensor if you install this on a 96 or vehicle. Anything I say about the conversion ONLY applys to the 3.0/3.3 VG motors.

To reiterate: Nope, like the other's said the R50 has an R200 up front, but not like WD21/22 D21/22s it is a reverse gear cut (stronger on the front end). Technically for all US made 2004 and earlier Nissan trucks the R50 has the strongest front diff due to its reverse gear cut. The R200, although unlike any front diff Nissan has made, does have the same carrier as a WD21/22 D21/22 and will accept the same ARB air locker (Dean you know this). Unfortunately 4.6xx is the lowest gears we got as the 5.14s for the WD21/22 D21/22 are standard cut and won't work in a reverse cut diff. Tony says "HI"

I did have full synthetic and believe it is the only way for the auto, but for the engine due to inconsistencies in oil quality have gone to fleet diesel oil (15w-40 delo 400 or Rotella-T) since fleet oils keep a consistent quality . I do my oil changes at 2k miles, also, since this is best for engines that have lots of idle time.

correct, it will work after checking this out and I am pretty sure an R50 auto with a tx10 will work on the QX4 with the ATX14 since the output adapter for each t-case will interchange and the QX4 lists the same model for the auto. Thanks for the welcome If i have a 4x4 knob or lever won't matter as that is in the xfer case and the tranny to t-case adapter will bolt/unbolt from tranny to tranny. What would matter is my engine, and I do have the VG33E.

ats are generally teh suck in the mud. I run BFG ATs 33x12.5, will go with the 33.10.5s in the future as they handle more weight and a higher preasure not to mention less rolling resistance. For the trail I run a very agressive tire as the ATs don't handle the muck well.

NGKs, go one heat range cooler to prevent detonation. I think it has the 6 in the part number vs. the 5.

Dumb questions, but did you put the dotted line on the passenger side? plug the coil connection back in? cam shaft position sensor plug on the distributor?

That is without a doubt one of the best looking rear R50 bumpers. What is it made of? did he use plate for the curves? Mine is similar in shape but doesn't have the nice curve and clean look, although I had to build mine out of tube so it would double as an air tank. I am really thinking of rebuilding my bumper copying that style.

Done it, wrote a manual for 96 and later using a WD21 tranny. Is pretty easy and earlier models should convert just about the same. If you have a donor car it is absolute cake and cheaper than an auto rebuild. http://overlandtrucks.com/system-f/Transmi...anual_final.pdf

I Have had tons of starts problems on my R50 as well (same starter) with AutoZone starters. When turning the key I would just get a click when the start was hot, when it was cold it would start most of the time instead of just clicking. It turns out the solenoid was engaging, but no juice or not enough was getting to the starter. I took out the new AutoZone starter with the problems and took apart the solenoid. Then I removed all of the grease in the solenoid and replaced with WD40, yes I know not a lubricant but it enhances conductivity and repels water. I reassembled the starter and haven't yet had a problem (knock on wood). It seems that most of the AutoZone starters have crappy solenoids. Note: I had already replaced all cables and the starting battery.

I am pretty sure that the QX4 auto is the same the tranny in the R50s? Will this shift kit work in our electronicly controlled trannys? The model listed in the FSM is the same as the kit. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=11862 ALso, does anyone know if the t-case adapter that bolts onto the end of a 4x4 auto with a TX10 and be unbolted and replaced with the adapter for a ATX14A if they do have a different input bolt pattern?