feloniousmonk

Link to where you got the kit? I upgraded my harness, better but not the night and day difference I was hoping for. Brighter but still has uneven light distribution (hot spots). I suspect the OE lamps are to blame.

Upgraded headlight wiring on Sat. and on Monday night I noticed the backup lights didn't turn on with tranny in reverse (manual). Can't imagine the new headlight harness and relays having much to do with it. The only thing I can think of is the switch on the tranny. Any other possibilities?

From what I've read, no. But, you can modify to fit.

Would it be a good idea to to some pre-emptive maintenance and replace them, plus, take the opportunity to install a set of Thorley's headers? If so, OEM or aftermarket studs and where can I order them from?

If I disconnect the alarm brain under the seat, will I lose powerdoor lock features? That POS is just going off at will now. Even with the rocker switch set to "OFF", it will still arm by manually locking the doors.

Read the thread. It's a passive system. Within 30 seconds of opening a door, you must insert the key into the ignition and turn it to the ON position to deactivate the alarm. If you don't, the alarm will scream bloody murder. Whether the locks were replaced has nothing to do with it. If you need a remote, there are a few for sale on ebay. To program a new remote to work see this thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14318

You're better off calling a few shops in your area. The parts themelves aren't expensive, but labor rates vary from city to city. As for parts, belts and water pump can be had under $100 total.

I thought I had fixed mine... well, I did. But, now the rear hatch light won't turn on in the auto position. Oh well, I suppose it's something I can do without.

Perfect. Thanks.

I am looking for part numbers for the rear door weatherstrip, the one that goes on the body along the top of the door jamb and down ending half way down towards the back. Searched several sites and no luck. Also, are there any perfered sites to order parts from?

It turns out even with the rocker set to off, the alarm will still go nuts if I don't turn the key after 30 or whatever seconds. I'm tempted to just rip this system out and install a basic aftermarket unit. It is just plain annoying.

Fixed. Well, sorta. There was no fuse! Not knowing that amp rating the fuse should be I stuck a 30 in there for now. Any idea what it's suppose to be? 20? 10? I was refering to the door ajar warning lamp on the dash flickering. Fixed that too today by adding two washers under the latch. I also positioned the latch slightly forward by 2mm or so. Rear hatch closes nice and tight and no more flickering of the warning light. I've been on a lot of car related forums and this is by far the best! You guys are awesome.

With the rocker in the ARM position, is the shock/impact sensor still activated? I'm pretty close to the flight paths for commercial air traffic. Would be a major niusance if the alarm keeps going off.

Ha. No kidding. A fleet would cost a fortune just to park!

Where in LA are you? I think I saw the same truck on craigslist. You could convert it to manual? Just a thought. If you're willing to spend $3500 all told, you might as well take a look at this one http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/car/414455982.html

Deja vu. Same symptom on the fogs. Same on the door ajar light. LOL.

I have the exact same problem! Thanks for pointing the way to the hatch sensor and latch hoop. I will try it tomorrow and report back. Join the club! UPDATE: Adding two washers, one for each 12mm bolt, under the latch did the trick.

Just realized my fog lights aren't working. Haven't poked around the truck yet... been looking all over the FSM and there is no mention of a foglight fuse or even foglights for that matter. Is there one? Little indicator light on the rocker switch turns on, but nothing at the bumper.

Perhaps not. But it's safer, IMHO. I've heard of a few cases of fried instrument clusters with retrofits in other cars. Initial draw might spike higher than what stock wiring can handle. Cool. Looking forward to the pictures. BTW, for some reason my email notification doesn't work. I've gone over the preference settings several times and can't figure out why it isn't working. Any ideas?

See my post in previous page, #19. There are several dual beam HID solutions. Not sure which works best, a bit of marketing snake oil goes with each method. Low beam HIDs alone may be sufficient, but I find the ability to flash at other drivers too useful to give up.

Stock 05 headlight are way better than those on the WD21. I am guessing the diamond cut ones are closer in beam pattern to the 05 than stock. I might give those a shot next month. I have bulbs and upgrade harness coming. If new wiring and new headlights still don't cut it, I might try the HID route. Will need relay harness with HID anyway. BTW, HID kits routinely sell for $125 new in the groupbuys section on bimmerforums.com. One of the sellers, even offer a lifetime warranty for $25 more: replacement bulbs or ballasts at no additional cost. If anyone is intersted, I can pass on the email address of the seller. A 50w ballast version is also available (vs standard 35w).

Thanks. I will try to take some this weekend. So it's a definite yes that if I have power locks and alarm I should have keyless? Haven't had much of a chance to have a closer look at the truck. Been working like a dawg on some Nissan advertising. FSM = factory service manual? Thanks for the offer, I have both 94 and 95 on CD-ROM. If anyone is interested let me know. I can probably make copies. Great explanation. Thank you!

Looks great!

There are a lot of varieties of 9004 based HID kits though. Most of them are low beam only and the hi/lo versions... well, the operating principles behind them are questionable. To elaborate, I've seen ones that: 1. tilt the bulb/capsule up and down 2. shift the capsule forward and aft 3. uses shields that open and close (fan out) 4. piggy-backs a halogen bulb for hi beam Without doing any side-by-side comparisons it's hard to tell which is better. Glare is an issue with retrofits, and can usually be remedied by aiming lights down a little. Has anyone actually done HIDs? any pictures? I'm leaning towards upgrading the wiring + bulbs and call it a day.

95 XE 2wd 5spd