feloniousmonk

I am out. Something has come up to set me back a bit. #1 MWS #2 Statutory Ape #3 Crazyhayseed #4 Island Boy #5 Ilovemypatty #6 LandShark #7 95shakinPF

Thanks for the heads up. I did have a battery die a while back and according to the date sticker the battery was only 2 years old. I replaced the battery a couple months ago and have been keeping an eye on it. What I don't understand is why the key would not turn if the battery is dead. Waiting to hear from the mechanic today.

I wish it had been that easy. I yanked on the steering wheel pretty hard and it produced no results. My mechanic said that from what he could see the previous owner had done some work in that area and didn't button things back up tight. The play cause some parts to be misaligned and break. This is the jest of what he said. I'm not quoting word for word. I was on my cellphone and reception was pretty poor. I'll have more details later.

Just tried it again. No luck. I guess it's taking a trip to the shop tomorrow. D'oh!

The factory original key I have fits that description perfectly. The copy has always worked. Unfortunate for me, I think the problem may be the ignition lock itself. Sun is just setting now, going to give it another try in an hour. If it still refuses to cooperate, it will be towed to the repair shop in the morning. Ugh. No feeling good about this at all since I just spent a bunch of $ to take care of some unexpected health issues. Thank you all for your help and suggestions.

I have a manual 5 speed. There is no "park". Went home for lunch, sprayed a bunch of WD40, tugged at the wheel and it still won't budge. I'll try again tonight since it was at least 90 degrees inside the truck. Can't even roll the window down to cool down the interior. The lock mechanism is definitely stuck.

I have a manual 2wd. Thanks for your help. I'll try spraying some WD40 in there and yank on the wheel some more. Been sunny and warm here. Something probably got expanded enough to get stuck.

When I bought the truck back in October I received two keys. One original the other a copy. The original key is worn enough where you have to play with it a bit to get it to work. The copy has been fine. I think the button is somehow jammed. The button has to be pressed in order to turn the key, correct?

Parked the truck Friday night, jumped in this AM to go to work and the key won't turn. Couldn't press the button either. Thought maybe it's the steering lock so I turned the wheel back and forth while working the key. The key still didn't work and I ended up engaging steering lock. Going to try again tonight once the sun sets and everything cools down. Any ideas or suggestions before I resort to having it towed to the repair shop?

They will fit 2WD for sure?

Why in the world are we talking about Pacesetter, over and over again. Does the thread title say Pacesetter? Count me in on the group deal. I don't care if it's ceramic coated or not, but I would like to see a better price. $350-ish isn't saving much over Summit's price of $360-ish. Also, I have a 2wd 5-speed, no lift. I've read the headers fit, but Thorley's site says no. What's the real story?

Your power door locks will not be affect by disconnecting the alarm, but you will not have keyless entry. To disconnect, remove driver seat and you will see a black plastic box with a factory paper label on top. If the label is intact... feel around the middle you'll notice there is a cavity. In the center of this cavity is a yellow square button that you would push to program new remotes. That's how you identify the alarm brain unit. Just unplug the harnesses connected to it. It should be obvious which one is the power/ground harness.

For the benefit of others and future searches, it might be good to include the model number?

Radio is not stock. Previous owner installed a cheap Blaupunkt unit. It worked fine until I changed the ground cable to something other than OEM. Headlight wiring is stock now. Aftermarket relay harness has been removed from the equation. I've looked at a few OEM parts sites now and the factory ground cable is about $55. Damn thing must be gold plated. Outrageous.

No one knows huh? Any recommendations for online sources for OEM parts?

Two weeks ago I started having intermittent problems with the headlights turning off on their own or not coming on at all. They were wired with a fused, 2 hella relay harness from rallylights.com. I noticed when the lights are not turning on the high beam indicator in the dash is dimly lit. I suspect the relays are bad, but open to thoughts. Haven't had the chance to get new relays. None of the shops near me stock them. Pretty strange. Lights work fine when switched back to factory wiring. Anyway, while checking and tightening all connections the negative clamp sheared right off so I had to replace it with a new cable from Pep Boys in the dark. That was real fun. I noticed the factory cable grounds at the block and chassis with one single cable. Figuring it wouldn't make any difference, I ran the new cable between the battery and block then added a 8 gauge stereo ground cable between battery and chassis. The weather's been good so I drove my other car all week and only moved the Pathy for street cleaning. Today was the first time I really drove it. I noticed that twice when I turned on the headlights the radio/CD player would cut out and always when I turn on the fog lights. Fog light wiring is unaltered, they can only be turned on while the headlights are on. Should I have attached that 8 gauge ground from block to chassis? Engine runs fine, only the radio's power would be interrupted.

If no sub is fine for you, then great. Immature to bash and completely uncalled for. It isn't just "ghetto monkey" music that has bass in the lower frequence range. Jazz with upright bass for example has bass that reaches down in those ranges. Regardless of speaker quality, a good recording of an upright bass will distort the speaker. Slap electric bass in rock will do it too. Even some classical music will do it too.

You can add a powered sub for bass.

So did the Kenwoods fit?

Yup. That site's been around for at least 10 years. Lots of good info. My 95 doesn't have sealed beam headlights. Blue blubs do suck. I got a pair just for the hell of it. Blue light (even though it looks white) does scatter and fall into the darkness rather quickly. Got a set of Sylvania Silverstars laying around, will give those a shot. Judging by what Stern has said, I doubt it'll be as advertised. The aftermarket lamps in the first post might yield better lighting since the lense doesn't have the "patterns?" of the OE unit to hinder light output.

That's what I was refering to. I always thought they were for 9004 as well... ? On your kit, how well does the high/low work?

Same thing happened to mine. Decided it wasn't a big deal to reach up and flip the light on if I need it. I'm guessing the added height of the hatch hoop might have somehow damaged the switch (or pushed it up so high that it jammed).

Hm, kinda what I expected (not saying it's bad) – a lot of glare/flare and hot spots. Not much you can do about that when dealing with stock reflectors. Plenty bright that's for sure. Curious if the diamond cut ones have better beam pattern but I don't think I'll be able to try it any time soon. Made Thanksgiving travel arrangements and it's going to take a while to recover.

Doesn't the 4wheelparts package include a steering stabilizer?

There is also http://www.autogeek.net/plastik-lens-cleaning.html Meguiar's Plasti-X and Plastic Polish, Cleaner and Detailer all work pretty well. Plasti-X is more aggressive. I've used all 3 products after wet sanding with 1000 and 2000 grit paper on a set of BMW headlights with good results.