Soul_13

Whoa Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Pathfinder guts. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Update from last post. Based on my tests and services the decision was made to drive it until it goes. Tranny gave out trying to get us to the oregon Bigfoot festival. Rip tranny. Before those hills(I knew it didn't like hills) it was a perfect beast of the concrete jungle. Would probably be out there roaming around still on that older tranny but the pathfinder wants to hunt, it doesn't want to be fed. So I dropped the transfer case, tranny, and a lot of other stuff lol. Not all was dropped though[emoji57], I managed to hoist on more than I took off, including rear main seal, new water pump, thermostat, front wheel well covers, new radiator, rear hatch button, etc. "The sightseeing stuff" if you will, while you're there you might as well check out... Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Having gone through some transmission issues recently, my thoughts go to the shift solenoids. Hard to really put all my chips on any particular path I might offer, but if you got a new radiator because the tranny cooler leaked, and or milkshake or worse was found in your transmission, if perhaps you don't know how long it had been running that way when you started having issues,(maybe you were on some logging road when it first gave out). I'm going to suggest you might need to have your transmission looked at. You can test your solenoids, and a host of other things which will cause you to learn a bunch about the true state of your aging Pathfinder and vehicle maintenance and diagnostics along they way. You could save time by taking it to a professional. If the tranny is the main concern, or perhaps tranny related, having them diagnose the transmission puts the job closer to a rebuild financially and physically so you might as well save/rebuild/replace. But of course you should have the evidence to support it. It's always tough to end up at such extremes, but if it needs it, it needs it and deserves concern. I thought it the best of both worlds from my recent experiences. Professionally rebuilt tranny/learned a thing or 22 about my current dd. (fsm also an "interesting" read. haha.) It's great when/if you can get on top of it, but mileage will vary. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

I will definitely look again for a breather line. I checked the transfer case and it was low. Previous owner took it to a place that put gear oil in(based on receipt) I drained it and put in atf. The gear oil did kinda sorta look like the stuff that poured out on the road. I'm going to drain and refill transmission fluid tomorrow. I'll probably drain the transfer case once more as kind of a flush. After changing front and rear diff oil, engine oil and filter, transfer case and fuel filter I took it out and put it in 4wd HI and LO and I could hear it engage and it seemed to be working properly. I got out several times to look underneath and there were no leaks. I know the cooler lines aren't kinked from being under there all day. I'll check for a clog tomorrow while it's drained and I'm replacing the transmission filter and whatnot. Turning out much better than my initial thoughts of a dead transfer case! Go Pathy Go! Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Well I just got back from making a fluid and parts run. I plan to check the transfer case for oil first and go from there. I've been reading the service pretty heavily this past day and I'm considering taking the Horde in to a dealer so they can see if there are any 4WD codes. Doing the on board diagnostic yielded nothing so I'm curious if theirs would be able to provide any info. Other items I will be getting on today include changing front and rear diff oil, engine oil and filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, and checking power valve screws. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Howdy, I am inclined to agree on the smoke. Possible leak somewhere. Dip stick shows tranny fluid upper level while hot. I don't like the color so I will be changing it very soon, I just want to check the transfer case first. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Yo, I'm not sure if it did. I know it has worked the past, like 5 weeks ago when we were last up there. Definitely felt hot from my crouching position but no indicator light so I'll be checking that. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Hey, The former happened. I engaged 4HI and had no drive. The smoke was white in color and was most likely the fluid hitting the exhaust. Is the breather tube on top of the transfer case the one you are referring to or does the transmission have its own? I looked at the service manual and couldn't find one but I will look again. Location wise it wasn't hot, mid 60's and it wasn't being run very hard, though I'm sure that was magnified by lack of servicing on my part. New knowledge will fix that. The only cooler is the factory one. Thanks for your insight. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

Testing upload of pics Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

On the mountain yesterday the 4wd would not engage, the engine revved but would not engage. Shortly thereafter I saw some smoke and got out to see what I originally thought was transmission fluid (from transmission) gushing on to the ground. I gave it some time to cool off, put it in 2wd mode and was able to drive home with no problems. I've scoured the net and joined this site and spent a couple hours under the area in question, completed the on board diagnostic for the 4wd system(1 blink every 2 seconds= no problems for the items the system tests for)and have come to this conclusion: take the transfer case out and replace the rear case to center case liquid gasket as that has possibly blown and while I'm in there check on or just replace the main oil pump. Due to the "blood splatter pattern" of the wet area underneath it seems to be centralized on top of the rear case. Originally I thought the air breather was the culprit (before learning what it was) because that hose was probably the wettest part around and the underside of the body right above that had fluid drops on some protruding bolts. Speaking of which should that hose have a clamp or zip tie? The tube is barbed. Trying to find some answers to this problem has really helped me better understand my vehicle. I now have a laundry list of items to check and oils to replace, not to mention checking on those engine screws. Is there a better course of action to diagnose the overall health of the transfer case that someone can recommend? Perhaps I'm overlooking something? Could the engine revving and not engaging mean a clutch is bad or tranny issues? Thanks for any and all insight.