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racaron

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Everything posted by racaron

  1. Is the fuse blowing all the time or only when is raining?
  2. I had a smiliar issue a while ago]. One of the headlamps went out, then the tail lights, then the instrument panel lights leaving only the left headlamp working. After researching on the net (at that time I didnt know about NPORA), I took the headlight switch out, cleaned the contacts and the lights worked for a while. Then it happened again, cleaned again, they worked again. By the third time I decided to replace the switch and voila! No more issues. Now the issue my Pathfinder is having, is a short at the clearance lights (tail and instrument panel) wiring that I havent had the time to check, we will see.
  3. It is time to replace the headlight switch.
  4. Thanks, so far has been working pretty good. It was pretty cheap as well.
  5. This is the radiator I bought for the truck, although mine has a manual tranny it came with the lines for the auto tranny. So far has been working pretty good. ftp://madmudders.net/npora/racaron/radiat...%20radiator.jpg And this is a pic of the old radiator cap, you can see that it had a major rust issue. http://madmudders.net/npora/racaron/radiator/rusty.jpg
  6. mzxtreme: Although is a good idea to have an extinguisher in my old truck (and in any vehicle), it wont be necessary at this time because I had the short issue isolated. I replaced the headlight switch myself and did a very clean, straight-forward job with no wire butchering, but by only unplugging/plugging harnesses. Thinking of when I replaced the switch (long time ago), now I remember that when I first tried the lights after installing the new switch, the fuse blew. I replaced it and it blew again, the only other fuse available at the time (from the ones that are at the fuse box lid, along with the "tweezers") was a 25A one. Today while showing the fuse remains to a friend of mine I noticed it was a 25A, not a 10A (hence, the whole melting thing you guys saw in the pics), and remembered the aforementioned initial fuse issue. At this point I think I might have a malfunctioning new OEM headlight switch. Next Saturday will TS it with another friend of mine (an electromechanic), hopefully this will be the issue and will solve it by buying another switch or simply by trying to repair the switch if this is possible. Mr. Pickles: I do believe in good karma. Once again thanks. Even if the problem is only at the switch, those diagrams are going to be so useful for me while enjoying my old truck. As I said in another posting, I am about to install a stereo system (head unit and 4 speakers, nothing special) and I will need this diagrams because the previous owner had some kind of system installed w/o using harnesses, but by cutting all the wires. Not good. I noticed there is a pair of Monster cables maybe 8 gauge, maybe for the rear speakers? We will see. For now I am centrated in this short problem, but hopefully will solve it soon and will move to the next. unccpathfinder: It will take some serious rubbing to take the insulation out of wires just by friction. Anyway, hopefully it wont happen (burn to the ground). I like the idea mzxtreme gave to me, down the road will buy an extinguisher to have it at the Pathy. You never know what can happen in an older vehicle electrical system. The wear and tear can be dangerous. As for the fuse box, I decided to once the problem is fixed, will keep it and will jump the two "clearance illumination" wires properly fused with a 10A. I might give away or sell the one that I bought. I must say, has been so much fun bringing my Pathy back to life, I really needed this toy!
  7. Any links for a good high flow cat I could use for the Pathy? Would be nice if I could keep the OEM cat protector plate.
  8. I already PMd my address. Thanks a lot!!!
  9. Here are some pics of the fuse box and the 10A fuse remains... http://madmudders.net/npora/racaron/fuse%20box/ If is a PITA to re-wire (only because of the soooooo uncomfortable position to work down there) I might pull the parking lights wires out of the box and will jump them using a 10A. Of course this is once I found out where is the short at.
  10. At lunch time I went to my truck and TS a little the "smoking" issue. Found that more than likely there is a short somewhere in the parking lights wiring . The fuse box is melted at the "clearance illumination" fuse slot, but only at that slot. The 10A fuse was entirely melted and it even dripped! I already removed all the debris and had the slot cleared/cleaned leaving only the two prongs "hanging", but I made sure they are isolated from e/o. Does anybody know if is a PITA to replace that fuse box? I am talking the one to the lower left of the steering column. I guess I am going to have a lot of fun TSing where the short is at. Any ideas? Last question, how can I remove the cover from the lower left side, where the fuse box is at? By removing it I will have more space to work with the wiring and the box. ***Bought the fuse box, anyone knows where can I find a good wiring diagram for the fuse box? Also found out that the corner is not a separate part, but part of the entire dashboard panel. It sucks.
  11. Now that I had my Pathy back on the road, I am using it frequently. The other night I was coming home and I smelled the typical electrical-burning type of smoke. I thought it was from the outside, but later on I realized that the smell was coming from my truck. Not good. I turned on the courtesy light and noticed a tiny "line" of smoke coming from the inside of the steering column (undeneath the steering cluster panel). All the gauges were working fine, all lights were OK and there was no malfunctioning in any of them. I turned the headlights off and the smell was gone (and the smoke). This morning I did some testing and turned on the parking lights only, it took some time to feel the burning smell and then I turned them off. After a while I turned the headlights on and almost immediately I felt the burning smell. Tonight on the way home I turned them on just for few seconds and this time the instrument panel light flickered just a little (not the headlights) for a second or two and then it stop flickering. Saturday will troubleshoot the issue, so far I am thinking of checking the wiring harness that goes to the headlight switch (burned wires, discoloration, wire temp, etc). I also was told that the issue could be in the headlight switch itself, but this one is a brand new OEM switch. Any ideas for troubleshooting?
  12. uncc: I will replace that sensor you mentioned to see if this will solve the issue. Seems simple. Do you know where the sensor is at the tranny, exactly? Mine has a manual tranny. Thx!
  13. I work for an insurance company and have tons of vendors at my disposition. PM me.
  14. Same with mine Bad Ice, no reverse lights. Not that I need them, but will be nice to have them. I was planning to have one clear fog light installed at the rear bumper, back up sensors or cameras will take the fun out of the little truck! Texas: Are you getting the switch?
  15. Thx for the info! Any mileage gained?
  16. 95shakinPF: Thanks 95!... Do you need an instrument cluster panel? Roost: Yeah, right after my new task with the radio/speakers installation I will be replacing the H2O pump and t-belt. At that point I might also replace the rest of the belts. As far as headers goes, I dont think I will be installing them, but I cant say I am definitely not doing it. I dont think they will make much difference as far as power goes, besides I am not really looking for having more horsepower in the Pathy. Down the road I do plan to install a 3" suspension lift-kit and maybe get better tires for the mud. But for now, the radio/speakers installation is priority.
  17. Today I replaced the radiator (soooooo easy to do) and this solved the overheating issue. Need to say that the coolant reservoir had maybe 3 cm of rust-dust at the bottom. Very nasty. Last Friday I flushed the system and added the Prestone cleaner, today when I dumped the water it was brown! There was so much rust inside that thing!!! The old radiator was the OEM (all metal) and apparently it gave up after so many years (a lot of them with the truck parked) with mostly sure the wrong coolant/water mix inside. Or maybe when coolant gets too old is like having plain water inside? Well guys, let me tell you that I am a happy fish now and will move to my next task... installing the radio/speakers! BTW, the timing belt and water pump will be done after the radio/speakers. Thanks for all the help and ideas you all gave to me!
  18. Hey Mark/95shakinPF: Got a radiator locally through one of our vendors for 80 bucks. Not bad. This week has been way busy for me, but I cant wait to have it replaced next Saturday. Going to get rid of the old one and will flush the engine side of the cooling system before installing the new one. Hopefully will be the end of the overheating. Ah, forgot... Although I already cleaned the lines to/from the coolant reservoir, will take it off to rinse it well.
  19. I am not sure if I paid 30 something or 50 something (I don't recall exactly) for the new part. I am an adjuster (insurance) and through one of our network shops got a good deal buying it. Maybe you can get someone down there in the "business" and buy the part with a nice discount. While, at night use the emergency lights to avoid getting rear ended.
  20. If cleaning it didnt solve the problem, you might have to buy a new one. I cleaned mine and it worked for a little while, but eventually I needed to buy a new one. Maybe you can get a good used one, but in my opinion is better to buy this kind of parts new.
  21. I have been thinking about what you just mentioned Mark. By flushing it I might clean some of the lines and maybe they wont be totally cleaned. I am interested in having a very reliable cooling system and definitely avoid worrying when it will give me issues again. At Advance Auto I can get an AM rad for $125.00. I have been browsing online and have found them for as little as 100.00 plus s/h, making the Advance Auto the one to buy.
  22. Yesterday, before starting taking parts apart, I used an infrared thermometer; -Upper hose 205F -Lower hose 195F When I aimed it at the radiator panel is when I realized that the issue was there. I was having temperature variations for as much as 40F while taking readings along the panel. Water is flowing in certain areas and apparently not as much, or not at all, in others. I flushed it again, and temp gauge at the panel stayed at half after an hour of heavy traffic. I bought a radiator cleaner http://www.prestone.com/products/coolingSystemTreatments.php to see if I can make the radiator to work properly again. If this doesnt work, new radiator it is. I kept the t-belt and H2O pump I bought, regardless of correcting the overheating issue by cleaning/replacing the radiator, I still going to replace the pump and t-belt just for the peace of mind.
  23. Sorry to hear about your job. The situation in SoFla has been pretty tough in the past few years. Hopefully you will get something good soon. I am impressed that you can do so much stuff with the truck. I wish to have more time to be more adventurous with mine, but my job is pretty demanding and I barely have time for my toys. Now I will try to install an electric fan on my task to solve the freaking overheating issue. Good luck with the job search!
  24. 95shakinPF: I have been browsing my Chilton's on the timing belt subject. Doesnt seems too hard to replace, but I am leaning toward checking the fan clutch first. Although I already flushed the rad, I am also leaning toward flushing the engine side of the cooling system. There was so much crap inside the radiator, that even the hoses for the coolant reservoir where all clogged with a nasty reddish sludge. RedPath88: Thanks, I will do my research on the electric fan installment. msavides: Thanks for the advise, but I already have replaced all the hoses to make sure they will last a while. I am taking the truck off road and want to make sure everything will work properly once out in the middle of no-where. gillj: Next weekend will be working on the rad again. Although I have already flushed it, I want to make sure that is not clogged inside. Also will buy something to disolve any dirt remains that might have inside and will do the same thing with the engine. On the electric fan subject, will be heading to U-Pull-It (a popular junk yard down here) to get a nice one.
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