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Jax99

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Posts posted by Jax99

  1. Been browsing the forums for awhile and haven’t found much info on the topic but was planning on installing a compustar 4900s remote start system.

     

    Anyone have any clue if I’ll need a bypass module ?

     

     

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  2. Looks like you had a blast! Not too much smoke from the fires either?
     
    My 5160's were for an early 2000's Ford F series truck with a lift. I think if I had gone with a set that was for a less lifted spec it would have been perfect. Maybe bilstein can provide the flex line with 90° fittings on both ends by itself? 
     
    We'll get you setup[mention=40800]RainGoat[/mention]. There has to be a model with the 90° fittings for that ride height. Might just have to contact Bilstein and ask.


    Fires didn’t affect us much up by calico. I was thinking of swapping the fittings but that’s what brought me to mention the 7100 series because they’re rebuildable as opposed to the 5165s. I wouldnt see how to properly pressurize the shock once again after swapping fittings... again if swapping fittings was even possible.

    I think mine was from a 2013.


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  3. Yep[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] has exactly the same things to say about his LR Spring & Bilstein 5165 experience. He loves their firmness & really notices their resilience in comparison to his 5100s. That’s how he convinced me. However, I’m looking at a 3-4” SFD with a total lift about 4” so neither of your 5165s will work for me. Now I’ve got to get those smarter than me to figure out which ones I need (ahem,[mention=36148]hawairish[/mention] &[mention=37543]TownDawgR50[/mention]).

    In the for sale section I’m selling my 5100s maybe finding specs for that length will give u an idea of what size 5165s you’ll need


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  4. Imo that showed some pretty decent flex and the shocks still didn’t touch... however not saying they would not touch with active driving or rocking motions.

     

    For those considering 5165s... [user]towndawgR50[/user] and I both ran into different issues where as his shock mount had to be relocated to accommodate longer shocks. My shock mount remained at the oem location and I ran the appropriate size for my 6in lift... the difference lies in our reservoir hose. Towndawg’s reservoir hose has a low profile 90 degree swivel while, obviously from pictures, mine is stationary and sticks outwards.

     

    Our shocks are mechanically the same but yet structurally different in regards to the reservoir hose.

    So why not just get a 90 degree swivel like TowndawgR50? Well bilstein designed 5165s for fords and various Chevy trucks whose mounts and shock lengths are different from our R50s. From my findings.. there are no 5165s with a 90 degree swivel that match the collapsed/extended length to fit the oem mount location.

     

    Now bilstein sells a model ‘7100’ its a reservoir shock too and it’s rebuildable... i didn’t get that one because I don’t know how or plan to rebuild shocks. They may have 90 degree swivel hose mounts ?¿ I’m not quite sure as I didn’t do much reading on those but for anyone whose 100% diving into reservoir shocks, take a peak at those and let us know what you find please. It may or may not be a solution.

     

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  5. Now for the fun part
    .......... the reservoir hose ...........

    to save any searching for anyone wondering my part ## again
    .......... #25-261400..........


    As we were initially worried ([user]hawairish[/user]). The reservoir hose will touch under extreme flex... pics to follow....

    During these pics the hose did NOT touch. Never did the reservoir hose graze against the side wall this entire trail run. However in these following pictures I feel if i had added anymore flex, or me jumping in the rails, the hose and tire would definitely have touched. That’s just imo but I feel the pics justify that.

    I apologize in advance for the annoyance and bombardment of pictures but it was difficult reaching certain angles and so I’d like to just give you a free for all of whatever i took. That way you can possibly see various angles and answer any questions you have.

    IMG_1239.jpg
    IMG_1233.jpgIMG_1261.jpgIMG_1271.jpgIMG_1254.jpgIMG_1253.jpgIMG_1243.jpgIMG_1235.jpgIMG_1252.jpgIMG_1260.jpgIMG_1263.jpgIMG_1265.jpgIMG_1276.jpg


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  6. 196559efb94036e702acd798dd99e873.jpg

     

    Shocks were worth every single penny. I’m beyond pleased with how well the truck ran the trail today. My main focus today was not to test my trail limits in terms of technical difficulty but to really test the shocks hard to find their limits.... rough/rocky washboards and uneven terrain was not a problem and definitely no longer will be when I’m over-landing.

     

    Ran calico trails today between 25- occasionally upper 30mph runs on roads i would have previously taken at maybe 10- lower 20mph. I felt notable differences that instantly validated the $$ for the shocks and rear combo with the HD LR coils... absolutely love the set up and would recommend it to anyone whose considering to run bilstein 5165s and the HD LR 9448 coils. Again imo it’s worth every penny, I would have been bouncing around in the 5100s i had previously.

     

    Went downhill/ straight, etc over terrain that definitely had some deep potholes or ditches that also gave the car some various basic flex terrain. I cant properly explain just how smooth the ride was, as if gliding practically. Took various corners at higher mph and the truck felt nice and firm all through out with no rear ended drooping or swaying (hats off to hawairish’s sway links). Trail time was just over 2 hours and the stocks responded well the entire time. 2 hours may not seem like a lot of time on trail but mind you it was practically a two hour stress test.

     

    520ff7e96a650e278b0d5621f3e9fed1.jpg

     

    c77ae6cfa517946b299dcb80ba27877a.jpg

     

    f72b1999fdb19256b7ba87159650ab31.jpg

     

    947aa9428da97bd51fc42c3c68e93e2d.jpg

     

     

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    • Like 5
  7. Summary list of parts used for this past weekend build with part #s

     

    - bilstein 5165’s

    #25-261400

    - viair 485c stealth black

    - LR HD coils

    #NRC9448

    - custom sway links (hawairish)

    - custom viair mounting bracket (hawairish)

    - custom fuse box bracket (hawairish)

    - (4) 8ft x 3/8 rubber hose (central pneumatics, harbor freight)

    - 5mm air tubing

    - 6mm air tubing (between air manifolds)

    - (2) quick connect coupler

    - 5 port 3 way air manifold block

    - 4 port 2 way air manifold block

    - HFS solenoid

    - Pressure switch On: 90psi Off: 120psi

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ8NJGO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_P.P5BbCKH2JHZ

    - ASME pressure valve 125psi

    - (3) 1/8 90degree push to connect

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H7X4QFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q8P5Bb7HYF8K4

    - 30 amp fuse

    - viair air pressure gauge

    #90084

    - Heart Horse 3 way carling switch

    #B01EFIZP2A

     

     

     

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    • Thanks 1
  8.  
    Sounds like a pretty good setup, but when does somebody fit some upgraded control arms and fancy shocks on? 
     
    Out of curiosity, what are you running for front struts and coils?


    OME HD front coils
    KYB struts.
    Warren hubs

    I had an issue I stated earlier with not having a missing link and having a repair done... the welds I have on are solid I wont probably be messing with the front until I am ready to do a SAS in the future


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  9. Man, somebody needs to get crafty with the front end of an R50, because all you wizards have the rear end setups dialed in!  That looks super slick [mention=41792]Jax99[/mention], can't wait to see what you guys do with the rig next!
     

    My front end has a 4 inch lift with a 3inch subframe drop. More to come in time, tough to do even what we achieved in this past weekend haha


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  10. The air gauge & switch in that drawer is brilliant. That’s a pretty worthless space & putting your air controls where you don’t always have to look at them is perfect. Brilliant idea.

     

    Super happy to hear the 5165s worked well with those LR Springs as[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] & I were planning on doing that to my rig. Sounds like I know which ones to use now. Definitely need those other part numbers for the bushings. I’m definitely going to need[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention]s assistance with that.

     

    I want to keep my rear sways but it looks like I can use the OEM links for now but will need to figure out an answer for when we put the SFD in place.

     

    I see you kept the AirLifts. Was that just because you were already plumbed for them? Both[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] & I had them but he discarded them with the LR Springs & I was planning on doing the same.

     

    The onboard air looks great. I was planning on putting my breather bracket in that location so now I think I will put it elsewhere to leave that space open for that option.

     

    Thanks for the pix & write up. Man, that white & black sure looks good!

     

    For the sway links. You’ll need to have those lengthened, I know towndog and hawairish know a few brands that sell them but as for mine, they were quickly fab’d up over the weekend when we saw that the oem ones wouldn’t fit. So if you get the 6 inch lift... no doubt you’ll need new extended sway links

     

    For the 5165s mine clear with about a quarter inch space between the reservoir hose and the tire.... although not sure yet if i was to go through some extreme terrain if the hose would rub or not...... towndog’s are perfect although his were done with a refitted shock mount. I’m assuming his 5165s have a different reservoir hose mount because they must be for a different model ford (mine are for 2013-18 fords, and their shock mounts are designed different then ours so the reservoir hose wouldn’t be an issue for fords). I went with the ones I have because i didnt want to use a shock strap or go through refitting the shock mount... so they fit perfect for the 6 inch lift but the hose placement can be seen as a possible issue. Though through some flex tests and me at 255lbs jumping on the car... the hose had about a quarter inch still from touching the tires... imo I’ll be okay for the overlanding and any wheeling i plan on doing. Although I’ll definitely update in the future if any issues do come up..

     

    The combo is great and I definitely notice a difference in ride quality, I gifted [user]hawairish[/user] with a pair of bushings for the shocks in hopes that we all convince him to get a pair of 5165s Set_2_wink.gif!

     

    I kept the air lift for the sake that we already had them installed and if i ever choose to tow xterras outa trouble if they break down on any green trails. *jokes* but in all honesty I kept them for the sake that they were already installed and fitted, all that needs to be done to reinstall them to the LR coils is to just shove them back in and reconnect the air line..... soo i figured why not, took a few minutes.

    Now to admit and drop a hint on a future upgrade.... the air lift may have slightly help stiffen up the rear since I have a bit of death wobble from bore out bushings on my trailing arms (oem) which are only a year old! Safe to say trailing arm updates are bound to come next.

     

     

     

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    • Like 2
  11. Some extra pictures....

    88028748652e6126ac5c7fad1865d1dc.jpgf6d099a03f67a1bf049be88e7b88a290.jpg0b87ac116a45bec2c83f999f345d8b17.jpg95b1746bdb9c904d1b829433c20f92bd.jpg05c029cb8ff34574286df529d3daa29a.jpgdecdf4ff562058b70f47c5f1f7e6ee5e.jpg
    15e7bf839e28d86af78d57d777b1df49.jpg329128bfee9e6a8661f1845f3f4e7ade.jpg
    Again any undercarriage hosing routes you see were tied down and cleaned up, just tryna give a reference as best as I can as to how it was all done. On the passenger side of the car Nissan runs various cables underneath the car with a wire/hose clamp/bracket?¿ you’d see what I mean if you look under the car. Anyways that clamp has one extra unused slot which i used to hide and organize the air hose all the way through the rear.


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  12. The interior aspect of the build turned out really clean. Underneath the driver side air vent and above the hood release there is an empty box compartment978dee877c20070ab025d972441c29c1.jpg
    .... turned that into d3ac3c0a455744b23a694f2ec9e83fc1.jpg
    The drawer still opens and closes with the switch and pressure gauge clearing. The switch is also wired to the power cable on the off-road lights which allows the compressor to be ran while the car is off if.

    I feel that a couple posts can’t even justify exactly how much work happened this weekend not only in labor but also fabricating and brainstorming the entire set up. Im extremely grateful hawairish was willing to take on such a huge project with me and help me out a ton. This wouldn’t have been possible without him. It’s an awesome set up that turned out perfectly.

    With so many hours thrown into this build I’m sure my mind is scattered and missing something I haven’t mentioned yet. Shoot away any questions about it or pictures you guys would like to see.


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  13. I’m sure it’s not only the links but the shocks and coils too that feel much tighter on turns as opposed to the OME and 5100 set up I had prior. I read what towndog said earlier about his set up not having as much droop in the rear and and I definitely notice that improvement in my ride quality. Courtesy of

    [user]hawairish[/user] for the bad ass sway-bar links he designed and fabricated. 3ff8e18ddbdce4545bc258a1d6f314d4.jpg7056a5c6e06ab9dafa1ea5a1250dac80.jpg

     

     

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    • Like 4
  14. The air compressor was definitely the biggest part of the project that required custom fabrication of mounting brackets, which came out top notch thanks to [user]hawairish[/user]. There was a solid 40+ hours into the compressor install which I’m sure hawairish can fill in more about than I can.

    8852916cace3af859e4405d59f88f730.jpg

    dfdba3d0b787f80f3624d984b6bd67ca.jpg

    My engine bay is that of an 02 pathfinder which I believe should be identical to 00-02 pathfinders (i may be wrong). We initially drew up all the prints to mount the compressor in the rear underneath the car but then playing around with the engine bay we saw a possibility to mount it on the right side and re-align the fuse box.

    I have a viair 485c compressor, we took off the factory mounts and repositioned the compressor to its side where we have atleast a quarter inch clearance from the hood when fully closed. There is a custom bracket that mounts two of the legs on the viair and then a third leg is supported by a inch and half or so spaced where there’s a bolt and a washer keeping it mounted.....
    b2599622d0c7610011185c62a206b5d6.jpg
    I’ll do another update where i unmount the compressor and show the actual brackets on both the fuse box and the viair

    Mind you we used factory mounting points and drilled no new holes into the engine bay or anywhere else in the car.

    A four way air manifold is connected to the compressor hose and fitted with the solenoid (which clears the air box perfectly), and then air’d to the front bumper quick connect and a second air manifold by the air-intake box.
    7c3e4412929c3d65173fa8daf400c051.jpg

    The air manifold was mounted to the intake box (no other place had clean enough and large enough fitment to run everything smooth and easily, keep in mind that all this is fitted for easy dismounting and assembling if ever in need of a possible repair) in pneumatics dozens of things can go wrong which leads to possible needs of repair. With the way everything is mounted, fixing possible leaks or wiring is extremely easy.
    a876ac247778d3caab20172c08ae299a.jpg
    ec21f53a99fa62d016cc2854c3101581.jpg

    The power and air hose is ran around the engine bay to the battery followed by the air hosing routed to the rear of the car. *the hoses you see in the pictures were during the install and were zip tied and fitted to the body.
    bcf55f02680b7a25d164bf5383154078.jpg04178b206d1472ef73065e87ea946655.jpgee690ea796cf43e17db63cb50fd62c16.jpg71069459d077d7b4f94dac1826a2514a.jpg
    a16d5d16def8511fab7416260789ccb3.jpg


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