Jax99
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Posts posted by Jax99
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Next step was drilling the air fill hole into the body of the housing.
Once the hole was drilled and threaded we placed in the arb unit
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We put all the pieces back in place and torqued the bolts using a floor press as a mount.
I cant seem to find pictures of the bearings we installed. Those were installed however using some lube and a floorpress. We had to purchase Timken bearings however and arb also by chance explains that in their manual.
****Part number****
Timken Bearing #32010X
As far as the install, we began by throwing the car up on jack stands and removed the diff from the housing,
@hawaiirish made a custom bracket that aligned with the housing holes and aided in keeping the diff in place from rocking left or right during the install.
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Its finally here! Sorry for the wait but here we go. Christmas Weekend we did a four day run from Friday-Sunday (Monday to wheel) and covered an RD135 ARB locker, AR32 ARB Intensity Spot lights, adjusted a radio fitment for a double Din media display, light bar pre-wiring, and custom fabricated Static Poly Trailing arms and panhard bar done by
[user/]TowndawgR50[user]
Beginning with the locker, I intended to purchase a TJM Airlocker during Black Friday. They were priced around 770 and I've read nothing but amazing reviews on them. Literally not a single forum review I read had anything negative to say about the TJM brand locker. I was set on what I wanted and placed my order on JustDifferentials.com only to get a message a few days later that they did not have that locker in-stock or in the country and gave me a blackfriday offer for a fullpriced ARB locker (so not really a deal then). I ended up getting them to match 4wheelparts.com and I ended up with a
-ARBRD135 Nissan H233B 33 Spl Air Locker $846.45 /shipped
picked up again blackfriday weekend, most sites were surprisingly sold out and had to take orders for shipments to come from the factory. fortunately mine was in warehouse and got delivered in about 4-5 daysI heard some concerns on the first gen ARB lockers which made me consider the tjm, however, looking at the second gen locker it seems as if they created a redesign that tackled any of the faulty issues they had in the past.
starting with the packaging
Now for the actual inner assembly of the locker...
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16 hours ago, threetoedsloth said:
They’re new OE springs, so basically worthless. Haha... I wish I’d bought some heavier ones. I’ll probably end up pulling the spacers out and measuring my gap, then shaving down my spacers if needed. The bags were riding up a bit inside the coils, so I’ll probably swap those around as well.
sorry for the late response even though Im sure Hawaiirish's clarity will be much clearer than mine. On first glance I was confused on the picture until I realized your spacers were on the bottom rather than top position. Also sorry for the lack of vocab on my part but Im assuming OE springs are Old man Emu springs? or Original Equipment. If you're running O/emu springs as I initially did then placing the spacer on top gave roughly 2 inches of breathing room or slightly more for the bags. I never really had a spacing issue, they kinda just fit in perfectly and stayed put. Ive always had much more than a half inch space between the bottom and top of the of the coil and spacer.
Your coils seem shorter than even my emu springs so assuming you're riding with oem coils..... you should get a heavier upgrade. The point of aid the airlift will give can't over shadow the slack the oem coils will have when carrying a heavy load off roading or trailering. The negative of getting the larger O/emu coils would be new shocks to accommodate the given lift if you kept the spacer as well. I guess to answer your question more simply though... no Ive never had spacing issues during or post instal between either my Oldman emu coils or my LR coils. In both instances I placed them towards the center point of the coil and they stayed put throughout. Id see some scraping marks from standard compression/decompression of the coil but the bag always stayed in place for me
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I wonder if the salesperson meant to say they dont offer the 90° fitting by itself or if they dont manufacture 5160's with a 90°. I hope he doesnt mean the latter becuase they definitely manufacture 5160's with a 90° fitting, just like my current set
That’s what I was going to reply because they have a whole size model with a 90 swivel lol.
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Also quick update on what bilstein told me on my repair issue. I havent had time to reply or research part numbers yet but here’s a response for anyone wondering on how they would modify the shock
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Sorry for such a delayed update to all those anticipating the weekends updates. Trust me I’ve been thinking daily on writing up a review and believe me.... I will get to it. Now for the excuses, joking but not really , I’ve been swamped during the holidays planning last minute notices with my college coaches and they have me finally set and squared on coming down now. Between all the back and forth interactions and then packing to now moving I haven’t had a moment that I’ve felt I could write up a decent update.
As of the moment I’m driving down for 10 hours will a full truck (note I’m still raked even with a full load!) I’m hoping I’ll get the time to do something this weekend.
To spoil it a bit without giving pics or build deets yet... hawairish and I installed and RD135 arb airlocker/ arb intensity ar32 spot lights/ custom static trailing arms fab by towndogR50! These things are bad ass and I’ll be doing a picture reference post on everything from the packaging to the install and 2400 mile use I’ve already put on them. Stopped my death wobble permanently and easily maintainable through easy access grease port zirc fittings. If you’ve read along so far on my thread you’ll know that I love my truck and only wanna put the best option out there on it. OEM trailing arms have been a repetitive issue for Me and hopefully my review will give anyone interested in a pair a good taste of what I mean when I talk about the quality and detail TowndogR50 and Hawairish put out into the market for us. Definitely know you guys would be stoked as I am to save yourself from oem replacements and permanently better your drive quality. Knowing they’ve had some prior adjustable arm installs I opted for the static variant since I don’t plan on doing any increased lift and they’re lighter, Their line of trailing arms are top notch, totally a must for the r50!
Thanks to all for being patient I’ll get back to the write up asap.
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Man, I just saw you on Sunday! I’m surprised you didn’t take a look at the 8” bolts sticking off the side if the rack. I believe the ubolts are 1”. My rack isn’t yakima. Its a generic ebay one. Also you had asked what soap I use to wash it..
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Thanks for the pics for reference! Lol sorry man I remember but the picture angle looked awfully like a Yakima haha
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What’s the diameter of the Ubolt? It looks like you’re using a Yakima rack, I am too coincidently.
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Anyone have an max trax that they’ve mounted ? Curious for any ideas as I’ve just bought a pair
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Awesome! In the end it’s good you have that. I’m still confused why my bro had an arb bumper before a missing link
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Time has come again and during my favorite season of them all! Will be back in hawairish’s shop again over the weekend. Have some really exciting stuff planned.
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I only use Mobil 1 full synthetic and a Mobil 1 oil filter on my vehicles. That's what I've been doing for the last twenty years. I try to change the oil every 10k miles, but sometimes it goes further. I've never had an issue with the engine oil such.
I used to use whatever the quick oil change place did until I slung a rod in my Sentra. Since then I've changed my own oil and used high quality items.
U change every 10k!?!? Damn i run through a quart ever like 3k
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Respectfully valid. - agreed ^
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Look at[mention=40509]Pathy_02[/mention] Rola V-Tech with Extension. I believe Delta50 has it on one of his Pathys too. I am also mounting one.
Rola V-Tex 59504 (by Draw Tite)
RolaV-Tex 59505Extension 18 3/4”
74” bottom center to bottom center with extension
48”x37.5”x5” OUTSIDE
46-48”x37”x4” INSIDE
Bars: Top 1.5”, Bottom 1”, Cross 3/4”(6+5+6)
Screws #10-32 Self Tapping (Quantity#12)
Ext +15”
50#(35#Rack +15#Ext)
130# Capacity
5yr Warranty
http://www.rolaproducts.com/support/installation/N59504.pdf
http://www.rolaproducts.com/support/installation/N59505.pdf
(888) 521-0510
PATH DIMENSIONS
71"Front to Spoiler Up
54.5" Sunroof to Spoiler Up
41" Wide
Might have to swap out the Yakima for that.....
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You deserve a medal, grateful for the post and will come into play for me in time once I can get my hands on a pair! Thanks!
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Not to thread jack but wanted to chime in on my rig too since your post actually inspired me to do the same set up.
Obviously as you stated it’s not difficult to do and relatively self explanatory. I still need to clean up the line route and add some heat sink to tighten up the wire ends. However, with the install done for the night I thought I’d just show some night pics and give a brief review on those led light strips
I went with the 24 inch, as you did, perfect fit imo
Again I’ll need to clean up the route and add some tie downs and heat sink tomorrow morning when there’s light out.
As for the strip. Great quality and good bang for the buck. They’re definitely silicone coated as stated and connections between the wire and the strip are of good quality as well. I’ll have the truck up in utah soon and I’ll be comfortable with these lasting.
Thanks for the post and link for the led strip, definitely the visual pictures and write up you posted inspired me to do the same.
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A 50 may be wider than the truck. Mine is a 42”. It’s about 39” from center to center in the OE rails.
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Rough estimate..... got the bar too cheap to pass up soo I’ll run with it
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Your fitment looks good. Ima gonna hook up a 50 inch bar soon, figure a 40ish woulda been better but I got toooooo good of a deal to pass it up.
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Well dangit, you're gonna make me go and buy another R50! This is really cool, can't wait to see your guys' products.
Maybe it’s a calling that you should
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LR coils are HD, I had medium duty ome (old man emu) coils and 5100s recently. It really depends on what you plan on doing with ur truck how far you wanna go with it and how rough the terrain wil be that you plan on going through. Nothing wrong with the 5100 and MD ome set up and I never had any issues but the 5165s and LR are definitely a worthy upgrade to me that have noticeable differences in feel and performance.
Again just kinda depends on what you plan on doing. IMO, if you’re gonna contemplate on doing that ‘later on’ then I’d just do it now and not waste money on a set up with MD and 5100s that you’re gonna get rid off sooner than later for the LR upgrade if that’s gonna be on your mind.
Tons of posts on people’s takes on the set up and in the end they’re both way better than stock lol so it’ll be up to you on what you want.
Nice call on ordering a link... definitely first priority to get that done before anything else. I slap my head to this day on not having that earlier.
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Another update coming in the works. Decided to join the family and get an air locker. I’ll be installing a TJM air locker and officially be fully locked on front and rear!
Also roughly another 6000 miles added since my rear set up (I know I drive a lot even for a DD) still in love with the handling and performance I’m getting. Would do it over all again if i had too.
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Lmfao that roof rack does look like my Yakima !!
Before I got more interested in wheeling and doing bigger overlanding Trips I mostly hiked a lot and went from trail head to trail head which basically meant i only needed the truck to take me to some basic remote trail sites/ campgrounds . During that time i ran bilstein 5100s and MD ome coils in the rear. Was a decent set up at that point which I was pleasantly happy with... however, night and day differences with the 5165s and HD rear coils if you decide to change in the future ... but won’t be necessary unless you wanna do some more strenuous trails and climbs.
Have fun with the build and keep us posted. Watch the wear and tear on your lower trailing arms (as I’ve consistently had issues with bearing wear on oem arms). As for the bumper there’s a post by rain goat on nothing but bumpers for the r50. I know two very detail oriented members here [user]TownDawgR50[/user] and [user]hawairish[/user] who do tons of fabrication work for our trucks. Literally, they put thought into every cut and bend in their products and i can contest first hand that their quality is matched or even superior to arb brand products. Truly built to last quality and reliable performance parts.
I hear they’ll be vendors here soon. Having some of their work on my truck and seeing it on other trucks here on the forum, I’m excited to see what else they come up with. Definitely check them out when their shop hits the forum and do some binge reading if you haven’t yet already. Tons of awesome things you can do with your truck and places you’ll be able to go.
Welcome to NPORA and good luck towards the rest of your build.
Btw if you haven’t already seen threads regarding a “missing link” I highly recommend you get one of those before you hit any trails. It’s a vital but missing part on your subframe crossarm that Nissan for some odd reason never included. IMO having that sooner i believe would have saved me from doing a costly subframe repair that had made my car undrivable. There’s tons of posts regarding these and i believe it’s even in one of the general tabbed “topics”.
Awesome truck, I love the black. Once again welcome and best of luck. Don’t stay up too late reading all the threads i know they’re addicting hahaha
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Heat dry and concrete/metal caulking on the holes.... clean trim the edges and paint once dry???
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02 Pathfinder (R50) Overland Build *UPDATE
in General Forums
Posted
Now came time to center the unit and adjust accordingly for backspacing. Hawaiirish knows more on this than me but I recall the range for backspacing was between .12-.16.
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