Jax99
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Posts posted by Jax99
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Good choice, this was my first upgrade. For fitment specs, crutchfield.com will be able to give you a list of all the speakers that fit in your car.
I do not run an aftermarket amp, just aftermarket stereo. I bypassed the factory amps that come with the bose system. I have a set of rockford fosgate component speakers for my front doors and the tweeters on the pillars.
The door and tweeter are connected with a crossover, etc etc. It sounds pretty good imo, although an amp would maybe get the most out of my system. Either way, I'm fine as is- its way better than stock.
How’s the ride quality though? My only concern was having the car rattle from having more power in my sound system
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Took a 99% amazing trip to Afton Canyon, the Mojave Lava Tubes, Kelso Dunes, and the Calico Hills. Mostly wonderful, exploring the Mojave Road and other trails nearby. Did bite off a bit more than I could chew doing the water crossing at Afton (P0130 and P01325 codes came right up), and may have overdid it on the clutch trying a slightly too difficult section of road in Calico. Looks like I have some more work to do on Hermon!
You’re crazy on that water crossing
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I’ll be back with some actual pics from canyon lands in a week
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So as everyone knows, the journey of upgrades never stops and I’m now in the market for replacing the speakers and assuming I’ll need to change the amp as well.
Does anyone know the dimensions for the factory speakers ? I know they’re 6.5” but not sure about the depth.
Also if anyone has done a swamp can you steer me in some good speakers and a amp? I’m currently thinking about doing some 6.5” focals and a 5-6 channel amp. Not sure what i can do with the mini speakers on the a-pillars (not even sure what those are called)
Nothings wrong with my current factory system i just want an upgrade.
Thanks, Jax
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I thought it was the horn behind the battery?
I’ve done some trigger tests and it seems that the “lock hack” that jj did for 8 months works well. Never triggers when i test it but we’ll see in time
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So checked all the doors. It seems when the red light turns solid then it activates the security system but if it doesn’t then it’s not activated.... to my understanding. And from reading jj ‘s post. If i lock the car and unlock the driver door and then relock it manually from the inside then that red security light never turns solid and in this case i should be okay?
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Yes, check the switch on the door jams. Also, does the alarm cut off after 30 or so seconds?
It goes on for like 30 seconds but repeats again
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As jjonez mentioned, it's likely one of the front door switches. Set the dome light to "DOOR" and close the doors. Gently push and pull the lower rear corner of each front door away from the jamb to see which door triggers the light. If the light goes on and off, then the button on the door switch isn't pressing deep enough to prevent it from connecting intermittently. You can remove the door switch from the body, being careful not to let the wiring harness fall into the body, then remove the rubber covering over the switch. Insert something like a pencil eraser into the bellows so that it rests between the button and the inside of the bellows. This will effectively lengthen the switch, causing it to depress more when the door is closed. Reinstall rubber covering onto switch, then reinstall switch in door jamb.
Which door switch? The electric lock, the handle? The actual locking mechanism on body of the door?
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I bet it's the same issue that myself and another member have had with our alarm system. It's probably a bad connection with a door jamb switch. Search my post history for an overly-detailed explanation. For me I tracked it down to the switch for the front passenger door and disconnected it. I've had zero problems since.
Edit: Here is the link to my post
Sounds like the exact same issue that i have!
So to get this straight just for the night....
1. Unlock my car and before i leave my car i lock all doors with the manual key
2. I use my remote key to unlock just the driver door.
3. Use my manual key to lock the driver door
This should fix the alarm issue and have all doors locked?
Issue is just like yours where it only happens at night due to change of temp
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Maybe your Pathfinder is equipped with an aftermarket alarm? Does it just beep the horn or does it also make a siren sound?
Nothing aftermarket. When I drive I occasionally see the interior lights go on and off as if the door was being opened but i just turned those off. Literally the wind can shake the car slightly and the alarm goes off
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Hey there! My alarm is ridiculously sensitive and it goes off in my complex multiple times a week and multiple times a night. The Christ like residents are becoming upset and are sure to retaliate soon as I have already drawn complaints
Does anyone know a loop around to disable the alarm?
I hear if i lock the car and use my key to unlock the trunk then it disables the alarm since the car is unlocked. Not sure why it’s so sensitive but I’m looking for a quick fix to pull a relay or leave something unlocked to avoid the alarm. I am not worried about theft in my area but still do not want all my doors left open
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Joshua tree
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Aaha I’ll just use my obII port for now.
Just popping in as well for anyone reading, been at a standstill with any posts or replies as I’ve nothing new has happened due to school and sports goin on now. Still active daily (usually late) and keeping updated on the Forum
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Just a little random heads up for anyone in the same position... if you have bad cat converters and your engine light is on. Get a code reader off amazon and clear that light before drives.... kid you not I added almost 100 miles to a tank driving long distance. Went from 97 miles at half tank to about 158.
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I guess we're due for an update, right [mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention]?
Things are moving along! Albeit, a little slower than we anticipated perhaps, but we're still at it. SFD designs and costs have been our primary focus, but we've not limited ourselves to discussions about other great ideas. We're making some initial hardware and material purchases over the next few days, as we're both anxious to get some prototypes made now that designs and numbers on paper (er, digital paper). We've given a significant amount of thought to the strut spacers in particular; I was tweaking the CADs for them tonight, actually. They're definitely a departure from what many are expecting.
Behind the scenes, we've been in contact with several members who've expressed interest in kits already, and we're stoked about that and absolutely appreciate the support!
We've also added a new tool to our arsenal (it arrived today actually!): a finger brake press. This will allow us to put some structural bends into plate, which opens the doors to a few additional design and product options.
Lastly, we've been mulling over a company name since the end of December, but one particular name has grown on us and we've been informally using it. Can't share it yet, but I can tell you it's not HawDawgs.
Excited to see what’s been in the making!
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[mention=37543]TowndawgR50[/mention] just helped me install some front trailing arm skids on my Mom’s T4R. It gave him ideas..... I think this pic should only serve to reinforce them.
Boy those new links he made look nice!
Definitely, the time will come to replace the oem parts. I highly suggest you guys give these two guys a shot at making you an awesome pair. Easy lifetime maintenance, you can’t go wrong.
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I am on the same path and looking at the LR NRC4305 for the rear. When looking at the Bilstein 5165s there are different valvings. What would you recommend?
https://www.shockwarehouse.com/news/bilstein_5165.cfm
Honestly do not know. The picture showed the same swivel fittings for mine too but they didn’t come
With it. You could get the bilstein 7100 as the parts are interchangeable because it’s rebuildable.
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This thread reminded me of this....
Whose wife did this !
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Jax99
Joshua tree
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Once everything came down we put in place the new arms. The zirc fittings aligned perfectly for easy grease points
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Install went well but slow because of the torqued up bolts. Took about an hour per two arms to come off
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Moving on from the Locker. We got our package from TownDawg right on time and tore into the new set of arms
Packaging came all the way from up north and got here in good shape. None of the parts were loose or protruding from the box and brackets holding the arms in place were a solid Idea.
Taking a closer look, the paint looked clean and nothing was scratched through the shipping process.
The welds done on these arm amazing, definitely well built and worth it. They’re also thicker than the oem bars including the panhard bar.
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For the ar32 ARB lights, I have an ARB Sahara bumper with pre placed mounting points for the lights. I began pulling the wiring from the cabin back into the engine bay and from the underside of the bumper, lacked picture of this but it’s pretty simple and self explanatory. I’ll try to mock up some drawings Incase anyone’s curious on doing their own lights.
Anyways once all the wiring was pulled and the lights were taken off all i did was repeat the process by mounting the lights, wiring and running the loom along the brake line and into the cabin.
From the inside of the cabin we ran a power wire back up into the engine bay again and tucked the wire by the battery to save any future installing for a light bar.
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Random picture of your R50
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Twins again
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