Wacky_Pathy
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Posts posted by Wacky_Pathy
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What viscosity level do you use?
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Yea you is right about it being hard to find.
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Makes sense to me. I was a little confused by it so thanks buddy. I guess I'll take my happy ass down to autozone later tomorrow after my final tests and get some.
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I'll have to PM you if that is the case. I have one other question regarding tranny fluid. I've read all the threads on it. I bought Lucas 75W-90 and it says it EXCEEDS Gl4 and Gl5. Safe to use or take it back?
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Looked at the ECU and got a code 51 aka Ignition Circuit ???? RIP
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Upon further inspection, the #5 injector housing will come off, but the actual system stays on the spark plug. It is running super rich and when I'm driving its all good but idling is a little low and struggles a little bit when taking off
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Holy balls. As a 17 year old senior in high school, I think I'll keep the stock ones
I am going to beldine this sucker though and completely black it out. Her new name is Cash if you get the reference -
Ok thats what I was thinking. Thanks brotha. I was asking about the two lower links and if anybody makes drop downs for them.
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Hang on a second I'm getting confused. I've hear references to a pan hard rod as a track bar. Just so we are clear, we are talking about the two track bars that are connected to the axle?
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Thanks dude. Does anybody make different trailing arm drop down brackets? I've looked and looked and can't seem to find any. I may go with the springs, won't sag and cheaper in the long run.
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It got a new starter in January and new Exhaust in February. Odometer stopped at 152k so I'd say at least 180k. It is all of the sudden and random. If I do a pull through all 4 gears up to 65, it won't do it for about 10 minutes.
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Anybody?
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It's a 92 MT
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It's always something with these trucks
My engine has been stuttering when I'm coasting in a low gear, and has been wanting to stall at idle. I've checked the injectors, spark plugs, and I turned the ECU idle speed up a tad but I'm not sure that it will do anything. I also adjusted the throttle cable because the throttle response was lagging a bit but that was before this incident. Any ideas on what the issue may be? -
Hey yall. So I'm contemplating on whether to get spacers for the stock springs, or get the Cherokee springs. What would you recommend?
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I never said nor implied that they were.... and you just validated my point.
If I had been referring to a Cherokee I would have mentioned that. A generic reference to a Jeep in an off road discussion is not about a Cherokee. Also, a little applied (un)common sense... and given that I referenced a design intent to run without doors, eliminates Cherokee's from the possible Jeep models I was targeting with that example.
But anyway, the intent of my original post was simply to bring up safety concerns to the original poster, not to open the door up for and get the
moving on now...Wouldn't a generic reference be any Jeep model though? If you are comparing a Pathfinder to a Wrangler, those are way different. And most people that I wheel with have Cherokee XJ's so I was confused. I didn't know there was supposed to be a specific model when it is generically referenced. Have a good one man.
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Pathfinders doors were not designed to be removed in any case but service or repair situations, nor do they have roll bars/cages from the factory.... bud
Neither were Cherokee doors. Wranglers are a joke for college boys imo. I'm working on tube doors right now and they aint too difficult to build.
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Couple things....
- Unlike Jeeps, Pathfinders were designed to have their doors on.. they are part of the structure. Without them (or suitable and properly built tube replacements) you run a higher risk of serious injury in an accident.
- Your ECM is on the floor under the passenger side front seat, if you get a freak rain storm, it could be compromised.
Doors on Jeeps are a part of their structure too bud. But yea I'll second the ECM thing
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I had a very similar problem a few months back. Turns out it was the starter. I seriously hope it isn't that in your case.
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On a similar idea, I wonder why people actually buy new cars? I don't want all the gadgets new cars have, and I could have a perfectly restored older car for much less! I think of this like an investment; if I put the money into fixing the rust, and then maybe in 5 years I have to do the drivetrain (suspension is already almost done), I'll still be in it far less than even half the cost of a new truck.
Dude I'm thinking the same thing; and I'm 17! I have loved working on mine since July when I bought it. Everything is super simple, it being 26 years old and all. I'm debating on registering it as a classic car.
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Alright guys! I got one on there today and it sounds beautiful. Removed the Cat, 2.5" piping with a flowmaster FlowFx muffler. Has a nice deep tone to it and doesn't sound like a rice burner.
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Hey everybody, So I'm looking into getting my exhaust leak fixed and getting a new muffler. I already have a Flowmaster super 40 on it but I would like to do something that doesn't make it sound so much like a ricer. Any suggestions?
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Please tell me you are putting in a different rear driveshaft
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There is someone on this site that sells rear spring spacers if you want to go the cheap route. Here is the link - https://sfcreation.com/products/rear-spacers
I have a 3 bl and 3 inch suspension. I used 3 inch rear spacers and heavy duty torsion bars from AC. You can go you're own lane on this one but I have no complaints with the spacers. They don't ride rough surprisingly.
Wanting to Stall
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by Wacky_Pathy
Yea it wasn't. Thank yall for all of yalls help. I read them all couple times and I feel much more educated than I am in school