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KiwiTerrano
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Posts posted by KiwiTerrano
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15 hours ago, Woots said:
Aha! I wondered if there were any active Christchurch members. Some people say my truck is too tidy..
Mine isn't a limited either, the leather came from a wrecked facelift R50 in Dunedin. Fun fact - I owned the full leather interior well before I bought the truck, knowing it'd be hard to find a good, tidy diesel limited. Well worth it 'cos I can't stand the cloth interior haha. Now to find some HID headlights and digital climate control.
I'd have to agree though, great trucks. Have also only ever had basic servicing, the previous owner had it serviced every WOF, and she owned it for 10 years or so. Does have a bit of a shaky idle though, probably because of the aftermarket engine mounts. From 3k to 340k is impressive!
I think the idle is just a QD thing, dad's has always been rough.
Here's a pic side by side
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3 hours ago, 01Pathmaker said:
I had one years ago on an s-10 blazer. I had what would've been a minor accident, I rear-ended a Ford pickup at very low speed. The guard folded back, creased the hood, both front fenders and broke the mounts on both headlights. Without that "guard" I'm sure the damage would've been minimal. We joked afterwards that the grille guard actually did it's job, as the grille wasn't damaged at all! Lol
Needless to say, unless it's a strong fabricated unit, I'll never have one again.
I love what@KiwiTerrano
has, any info on that? (But I'm sure it's not available here)
It's an XROX bar. They're Aussie made, ~1300AU plus shipping, will hopefully be fitting one to my R50 in the next few months. They're airbag compliant and also have mounting bolts for recovery points on the side of the winch cradle.
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That won't do much. You really need a full bar like this
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JDM. Also on my truck (which is entirely JDM with a diesel
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That is incredibly tidy! Another Christchurch-based R50 owner here myself.
Mine's the Terrano G3M-R Limited, also with the QD32 and 4-mode lever + dial 4wd.
Mine's also nowhere near as tidy as yours... although it has been modified and used offroad so that's my own fault.
I have a (cheaply and quickly) made rear shelf setup with a hinged lid to keep things from sliding around when offroad, but no bed setup like yours.
My father has a Regulus, a 1996 model with the QD32. His is the basic RS-R, not the Limited with leather like yours. He bought it in 1997 as a fresh import with 3,000 km on it! Has now done 340,000 km with nothing but basic maintenance and suspension. Great trucks. Mine's done 240,000.
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Just a random pic to show off the insane JDM spoiler/wing.
Here's one of the situations I got snatched from... Note the rear tyre is off the ground! Diffed out hard...
And a pic of the XROX bar
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7 hours ago, TowndawgR50 said:
Ouch! Thats rough. Any photos of the damage? @KiwiTerrano
It's not very spectacular, just about a 3 mm kink right in the middle of the lower rad support. You'd hardly notice it otherwise.
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6 hours ago, hawairish said:
Great insight, but bummer on the damage! As soon as you had mentioned the distribution strap, that's exactly what came to my mind...the lower support buckling. You absolutely had the right idea to distribute the load, but the problem is that so many spots on unibodies are simply made from thinner steel that is layered or laminated and not fully boxed/welded, and it's function is to be rigid, but also to collapse upon impact. The few spots that must bear excessive loads constantly (like the subframe, strut towers, and spring perches) use thicker gauge stamped steel.
Be sure to post up some pics of that XROX bar if you get it. I think they're great looking bumpers, wish we had them here.
Will do. Hopefully will have it early Jan sometime. I like the XROX design because it will transfer the load from the recovery points basically straight into the fake chassis rails, rather than being attached to the subframe/lower rad support like the factory points which also sit a bit low for when you bury the nose in mud... Ask me how I know haha
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Have done some reasonably aggressive 4wding in my Terrano on 31s (a bit out of its depth) and had to be both winched and snatched from the front several times. The first recovery I was stuck at a slight angle around a corner. All pulls were done using a 4 m 4000 kg rated distribution strop between the two front eyes with rated bow shackles, and then a 9 m 8000 kg rated snatch strap for the snatch.
The first snatch, there was a nasty "bang" sound from the front end... I thought something had broken but it looked ok at the time. At home, I noticed that my lower rad support had buckled very slightly in the middle at the front, and that the two points were now slightly bowed in. I reckon if I hadn't used a distribution strap I would have pulled one of the points off.
However, they still held up to another few tows and one winch.
At the rear I have a bolt-on recovery hook, designed to open out if overstressed, on the towbar.
I plan to fit an XROX winch bar, which has mounts for two rated recovery hooks same I have on the back, on either side of the winch cradle.
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Looks great. So that's with Fleury's 50 mm spacers all round, to give 2.5" of lift? On standard springs?
Can't wait to see what mine looks like on 50 mm front strut spacers with a ~1" diff drop (just diff not subframe) and 2" lift springs (combined 4.5" total front lift). Rear will have Fleury's 2.5" spacers on 2" lift springs too. Might upgrade to 4" springs if the front end works okay later on.
In theory, that should mean my CV angles are safe at maximum downtravel (2.5" lift from the 50 mm strut top spacer, minus the diff drop to keep them a bit under 2" "total" spacer lift), and give me the same strut droop as a 2" spring lift, with an extra 2.5" of clearance (albeit 1" less under the diff). Total lift will likely be a bit less than 4.5" anyway as I have the QD32 ironblock turbodiesel, factory twin batteries and I'm going to hang an XROX bullbar and 12,000 lb poly-rope winch off the front too.
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On 10/8/2018 at 8:47 AM, Jbaird313 said:
Thanks for explaining in more detail. Will I experience any issues, I only plan on staying on the highway for now. Until I get my new tires and wheels. Then I was gonna have it re-aligned. Should I wait till I get it re-aligned again? Or put the camber bolts on ASAP?
The problem only arises in the last half-inch of downtravel. SO as long as you stay on road and don't "top out" the struts (especially when putting power through the CVs) you should theoretically be OK.
I would recommend an alignment with camber bolts (you may need them in both front strut bolt holes) ASAP as without an alignment it'll drive like crap and chew through tyres.
A diff drop can be done later without needing realingment as you don't need to take the front struts out for that, just unbolt the axles & drop the diff. BUT this isn't an easy proposition and very few have done it on an R50. I haven't done mine yet but have the 50 mm spacers to go in once I get it done.
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The maximum front spacer you can run is 35 mm without having CV problems when fully drooping the suspension. This gives 2" of actual lift.
The 50 mm strut spacer gives 2.5" of lift, which is too much for the CV axles without a corresponding 0.5" diff drop to compensate.
Note that the diff drop referred to above is not a subframe drop, which is a whole nother kettle of fish.
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If you run a skinny 33, ie a 10.5 not 12.5 section, or a 255/85r16 they'll fit better than a 12.5 or a 285/75r16
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On 9/7/2018 at 4:59 PM, ferrariowner123 said:
Yeah! Another JDM headlight brother!
Question, how are you going to get the fender lights to work without the fenders?
-Kyle
Would be easy enough to cut a hole for them. Can provide a photo of the hole shape if you need from my JDM Terrano. With factory HIDs
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Taking this one step further, I was having bad thoughts the other day about fitting 255/85r16 tyres...
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Also, if you're getting his spacers remember that the 35 mm spacer gives 50 mm (2") of lift in the front - the 2" spacer gives 2.5" lift which is too much for the CVs to handle.
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I'm afraid even the genuine R50 snorkels require chopping rather a lot of the front subframe out... I was not happy about that. If I were to do it again I'd buy the D22 version and try that first.
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On 8/1/2018 at 10:54 AM, jtchal said:
Hey mate, you might be sorted now but I've just landed on a gold mine a few days ago.
Megazip.net.It's super handy to locate OEM part numbers for our Terranos.
This link might be handy to you, it'll show you the assembly of your HID headlights along with the OEM part numbers.
You can then use google to find alternate buying options.
Megazip seems to be alright though, I've just bought 4x OEM strut bearings from them and they've turned up without any issues.On another note, we should meet up and talk Terrano stuff!
For sure, also have another mate with a tidy R3m-R, snorkel, lift, 31" Coopers etc... Handy hint for installing snorkels - DON'T! Huge PITA. Mine was an absolute mission. He paid to have his installed. Smart move.
And thanks for that link, it clarified exactly what I thought about how to change the bulb. Great community here, very much like the Subaru forums I used to frequent.
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No idea sorry, I just drive the thing and do maintenance. ORE is your best bet.
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3 minutes ago, Buzzliteyear said:
Thanks KiwiTerrano, that makes sense as the pressure to move the lwo range arm on the T-case is more than id expect a actuator to do,
The 1999 one is what i was after..... if i could run it without the control unit ? and then a Non electric Auto from early model with short removable bell housing
then a series LD engine from my C32......thats the plan......
Kiwi are you on the offroadexpress forum ? my old password wont work and no reply from admin
yeah I am on that forum too, different username though
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Think I've found what I need (the part number) - D2S Xenon bulb Now, to find a cheap one to order and then test-fit... Pulling the back off the projector looks to be the hard part (it's actually bolted on, by the looks of it).
https://powerbulbs.com/eu/store/category/xenon-hid-bulbs-d2s-d2r-d1s-d1r/fitting/d2s-85122
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20 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
The trucks with the ATX14A have a heater knob looking deal on the dash to control the transfer. I assume hi/lo is just a servo controlled by the transfer case computer. The TX10A trucks have the lever through the floor. You'll have to do some bodging on whatever actuator you go with--AFAIK there was never a factory electronically controlled TX10A, so you're looking at some custom work to get something mounted up and then to figure out how to control it so it stops in the right places.
As for the pictures, unfortunately the only way to get bigger pics is to host elsewhere and embed or link them.
Not quite, the early 4-mode trucks (such as my 1997 JDM G3M-R with the QD32) have the knob/switch/dial to select 2wd/auto/4ed lock, and the lever to select low ratio (which also automatically locks the centre diff if you leave the dial in 2wd). Only the post-facelift R50 from 1999 on had all 4 modes on the dial and no low-range lever.
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Noticed tonight that my left low-beam headlight (factory HID) has turned a pink colour and is nowhere near as bright as the right one, which is still the original blue colour. I have no idea what the part number is for the HID bulbs, as my truck is a Japanese import to New Zealand.
If anyone could enlighten me as to the part number for factory Nissan HID bulbs, and even where to purchase from, that would be great. Cheers.
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Also MCC make several styles of bar to fit the R50, not sure if these are available in the States though.
What would be a good diesel engine for the '91 Pathfindr?
in Diesel Engine Discussion
Posted
TD27, QD32, 1KZ, 3L or 5L. Or an Isuzu or mitsi.