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KiwiTerrano
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Posts posted by KiwiTerrano
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Go on trademe.co.nz and find one off a grey import jdm terrano. They're on every other r50 in New Zealand.
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23 hours ago, FUELER said:
I have a homemade plug and play harness for my nissan terrano regulus headlights. I did not make this harness myself, but I can give you pictures so you have an idea. It was made using Nissan relays, the HID headlights get their power from the battery but power is triggered by the 9004 sockets (qx4 used 9004 sockets from 97-99... 99.5-00 use a different plug)
Everything is powered except for the auto leveling, I do not have the plugs or switch for leveling but i would love it!!
I want to upload a picture of the harness but I do not see an option to upload photos? Is this outsourced photo hosting only now?
Yes you have to have a third party site and insert the link. I use tinypic.url
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My diff whines and has done since I purchased the vehicle. Hasn't gotten any worse in 35000 km. I've changed the oil twice in it.
My flatmates terrano also has a slight diff whine.
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JDM HID lights are fantastic. The low beam HID are extremely good, especially when paired with good aftermarket bulbs. I'm running Osram Nightbreaker D2S in mine and the light output is unbelievable. Better than any other vehicle I've ever been in. The high beams on the JDM lights are also great, they're shaped like driving lamps and output a good amount of light even with factory bulbs. Am contemplating getting a set of nightbreakers for them too in halogen form.
My light output is on a par with all my mates with massive light bars haha
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I deleted the second airbox, and used a flexi hose from supercheap auto and a 3" PVC elbow from Bunnings to connect the snorkel to the standard airbox. Plus lots of silicone to seal it all up.
I also run the snorkel head backwards now, as I found that the ram was introducing too much crap into my airbox. Opened it up and found that one side of my filter was coated in "mud" (from where water had wet the dust) and insects and the bottom of the airbox was full of water. Looked like the ram head hadn't been ejecting water properly. Runs much cleaner backwards, I'm only getting dust now & no water.
Also check your air filter fits the airbox, the previous owner had fitted a filter that was 3 cm too short and so heaps of crap was getting sucked straight past it onto my MAF... I had to replace that as it wasn't running right. Luckily the turbo seems OK.
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Nice work! Love those lights.
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Removing the glow plugs would do it for two reasons. One, it will be difficult as hell to start with no glow. Two, there will be no compression at all, and so it won't fire. I'd also recommend removing the fuse for the fuel pump and unplugging the output hose from the fuel filter in the engine bay to avoid spraying diesel everywhere. Although you will then have to re-prime the fuel system. Probably a good idea to change the fuel filter anyway if it's been sitting (or at least after running it for a little bit).
Good luck, the TD is a great engine.
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42 minutes ago, colinnwn said:
It's almost certainly because in a front end collision the engine is designed to drop down and slide under the vehicle instead of being pushed into the cabin. A missing link prevents that from happening.
Having said that I went ahead and installed one because in many other accidents it would probably help or have no impact.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Surely in a high speed collision however, the force of the impact would be sufficient to shear one or both bolts holding the link in place?
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Yes, to me it makes no sense why Nissan never put a link there. From looking at the design of the suspension the rear of the crossmember is under huge stress.
A missing link should make no difference to your CVs.
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16 hours ago, spicyheckboi said:
so do we think that shock would be good for at least 3” of rear lift, as in there too big for two inches of lift?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYes.
From looking at the photo, it appears that on the compressed side, the shock is fully compressed but the axle is not sitting on the bumpstop, meaning you definitely need to extend the bumpstop. It also looks like you're about to get coil bind on the compressed side, again meaning you need to extend the bumpstop.
Looks good overall though
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5 minutes ago, 02_Pathy said:
Yeah that's what I have the 33-185552, and for our lifts and springs being 14.8 to 15 inches in free height they probably have the most down and up travel for the current springs
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
I would agree, I trawled through a lot of shock options to try & find a better one & couldn't.
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4 hours ago, 02_Pathy said:
I have some Bilstein 33-185569 sitting around (same length and compression of shocks you linked just different valving 255/70 over 170/60) even though they'll work I did some quick measurements with the vehicle flexed (new shock not mounted using the old Bilsteins I have on now (33-185552)) the new shocks might be 1 inch too long which will cause the coil to unseat with 3" of lift. Even though you can add a bumpstop which will prevent anymore up travel, it won't stop the axle from the down travel. Also with the additional flex of that set up (longer shocks), you definitely need to extend brake lines and the breather tube. Again I'm not certain that the coil will unseat but by doing the measurements it's going to be close and again might be a tad longer. I'm going to test it with the new shocks in this weekend and flex it to max hopefully. It's just something that I observed with the longer shocks and the coil setup.
Yes, when fitting longer shocks you need to measure the length of your spring and then use trigonometry to calculate if your shocks are too long.
Personally I would recommend either the Bilstein 33-185552, which works on pre or post-facelift, or the Procomp ES326500 (cheaper, but only compatible with post-facelift, as you can't mount them inverted and the body interferes with the panhard rod on pre-facelift). Both shocks have the same mounting design.
The above shocks give the maximum downtravel without having to lower the bumpstops (to avoid damaging the shock under full compression), and work with 400 mm long springs or longer.
Here's a table of shocks I have compiled.
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46 minutes ago, PathyDude17 said:
And it’s also worth noting that the shocks don’t go straight up and down, so the higher up you go, the more your shocks can be extended beyond the height given by the lift
Yes, on my prefacelift r50 the shocks make the hypotenuse of a right angled triangle, which allowed me to use trigonometry to calculate the maximum shock length for my springs.
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5 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:
Ya I would extend rear bump stops on mine, and my spring would be double the height of yours in terms of lift. I’m looking at 3” spring lift
That all sounds fine, so long as the springs are long enough to remain captive at full droop.
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Should consider a diesel swap if you're concerned about fuel economy. My QD32 powered factory diesel R50 does about 10 L/100km on the open road and around 12 L/100 km around town. Great truck.
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Throwback to just after I had the front end rebuilt and fitted my custom recovery points
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3 hours ago, Bax03SE said:
Stock springs are soft, but they still shouldn’t be bottoming out over speed bumps unless you’ve got several hundred pounds of weight in the back. Before messing with the springs I’d investigate everything else in the rear suspension. Get under there and start pulling/shaking everything you can get your hands on to see if anything is loose. Check both upper and lower trailing arms, the sway bar end links, and even the spare tire to make sure it’s nice and snug. I suspect the sound you’re hearing is something else that is loose or worn out and not the actual springs bottoming out.
Nah, the springs in my R50 with 220,000km were bottoming out going over speed bumps. Have since replaced with Ironman springs. World of difference.
I'm interested to see someone use a different spring to the 9446. Am considering going to a 50+ mm lift myself, and am thinking about getting a set of NRC2119 springs. I prefer a longer softer rate spring for maximising travel.
http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html
Link to the table of rover springs. You have to use "front" springs as rear are wrong diameter.
If you're carrying that much weight the 9446 is a good match I'd say. Although using a longer spring also allows you to use longer rear shocks without retention issues.
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5 hours ago, PathyDude17 said:
Is 29” too long of an extended length for 2-3” of lift in the rear? Stock being 24”
Yes. I'm running Ironman 35 mm lift springs which are 400 mm in length (rear). I have procomp ES326500 shocks which are 15.94" compressed and 27.07" extended for travel of 11.13"
This is basically the longest shock you can run for several reasons. Firstly, the compressed length is barely short enough for the bumpstops to work properly & avoid ruining the shocks at full compression. Secondly, if the extended length were any longer the springs would drop out. I did some trigonometry to calculate the max shock length before purchasing.
For a 400 mm long rear spring, maximum length from the centre of the bolts on either end of the shock is 27". Otherwise you will have problems with spring retention, and the compressed length of the shock cannot be greater than 405 mm or so (16"). Preferably <400 or <15.9". I am pushing the limits on both compression and extension with these shocks, but the results are worth it.
If people are running a front subframe drop and are prepared to extend the rear bumpstops to allow for a shock with a longer compressed length then of course you can run a 29" extended shock. I have built my truck to flex as well as possible with minimal lift.
I have attached a list of various rear shock options, OEM replacement and various aftermarket.
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7 hours ago, Sjackson2 said:
with only a two inch lift this shouldnt be an issue. if he wanted the longer shocks though you could go with bilstein or procomp. could always run some f250 shocks also...just have to swap the bushings
A 2" spring lift, when used with standard shocks, will reduce your downtravel by 2". This may not sound like much, but when you consider the standard shocks have only 8" of travel, and are usually setup for 4" uptravel & 4" downtravel, you are essentially reducing your downtravel to 2"...
Therefore, if you want to actually use the vehicle offroad, I dare say it would be an issue. Fitting longer shocks absolutely transformed the capability of my vehicle offroad, as did removing the RSB. Maximising wheel travel is critical when one does not have lockers or traction control.
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KYB struts for the front. Rear use something other than KYB as they're too short if you're lifting it - you won't get good travel as you will be limiting the downtravel severely. I'm running 11" travel Procomp rear shocks with no RSB and the flex is ungodly.
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Watch the mighty car mods episode on plugin tuning chips.
If you want a real difference you have to spend real $ eg unichip
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See this thread
Also, I love my JDM projectors... Also the rest of my JDM diesel R50 haha
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Onroad manners are fine without the swaybar. Marginally more prone to understeer but nothing drastic. Removing the front sway bar is what causes dangerous changes in handling. Many vehicles do not have a factory rear sway bar but very few have no front sway bar.
I'm also running polyurethane bushes front and rear which really helped roadholding too. Not cheap though.
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10 hours ago, Bizzle said:
Thanks!
When you say mounted "upside down" do you mean the plastic shock cover side on the upper mount or the metal body side on the upper mount.
Cheers!
It's generally accepted that the correct way to mount a shock is with the body down -- ergo, upside-down is with the body at the top. Only do this with monotubes.
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1999 ZD30 power loss/EGR
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by KiwiTerrano
Unfortunately the zd30 is one of the worst diesels Nissan ever made, a far cry from the earlier TD series diesels. I deliberately bought an earlier qd32 powered terrano not a zd30 for that reason.
The zd30 is known for melting piston 3 and blowing turbos. It's regarded as a matter of when, not if, it will give you major grief, usually around 170,000 kms or so. Unfortunately this is not a cheap fix and I have seen several NZ Terranos with blown zd30 diesels that have been retrofitted with a qd32 or td27 diesel.
If your boost pressure is fluctuating I'd be worried about the turbo. Could be worth taking the intake side to pieces and checking nothings loose. Does it blow any smoke?
Also try offroadexpress.kiwi for more info.