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KiwiTerrano
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Posts posted by KiwiTerrano
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On 1/10/2019 at 6:28 AM, Mattmill91 said:
After closer inspection of the video it does appear that right rear is spinning... much like every one has described.. evidence being some dirt being tossed back from that tire..
So everything should be ok functionally.
But it seems like a pretty lame system... tightening up the lsd.. appears to be some work. Think I have read somthing about adding shins to the clutch pack.
So the rear end clutch pack is just allowing the tractionless wheel to spin while the weighted one doesn’t? If I am following correctly.
Don't feel too disheartened - the LSD is way better than no LSD. One of my mates has a Terrano exactly like mine with no LSD and I can outwheel his with ease. It makes a lot of difference so long as your rear wheels can both touch the ground - it prevents all the power going to one wheel if it momentarily goes onto looser ground. I'd recommend fitting some longer shocks eg Bilstein or Procomp ES326500, and removing the rear sway bar. Cheaper, easier,much nicer to drive onroad and arguably more effective most of the time than just shimming the LSD up.
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On 1/10/2019 at 6:21 AM, Mattmill91 said:
It is a 97 se. And has a LSD in the rear.. with a manual tranny and manual hubs up front. I didn’t check the other side.
LSD has been making some odd engagement sounds when going from stop to hard turns..
I have been stuck on a snow bank before with only the front left and back right spinning..
Thanks everyone y’all rock!!Yeah, the R50 LSD is good, but if there's no weight on one rear wheel or it's on an exceptionally slippery surface then it won't work as the breakaway torque is lower than that needed to push the vehicle forward.
The LSD in my R50 makes some pretty bad clunks & other noises sometimes. I've given up worrying as it hasn't got any worse in the 25,000 km I've owned it. I figure it's the differential as I've replaced every single bush in the rear end, the shocks, and have no sway bar.
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I agree with the above posters, I think you've just cross-axled it and are getting diagonal wheelspin. I would be very surprised if there were only one wheel spinning, as there is no way of getting power to only 1 front wheel in any of these vehicles, being primarily rear-wheel drive.
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There's actually 2 relays in the in-line fusebox. I only took a picture of one as they're identical.
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22 hours ago, Mrelcocko said:
Wow!!! Wiper deicer? Front wiper? Thanks man so appreciated. I'm kinda confused as to why theres 1 relay located in your main fuse box and then the other one in the single file hid fuse box. If that makes since. I know the system only calls for 2 relays I'm just wondering why they didn't put both of them in the single file fuse box either way I'm sure there's a reason for that. I've got mine wired up just like the diagram shows and it works so I'm happy I'm just glad now I kind of see how it's done from the factory as far as the layout of the relays and fuses.
Mr Cox 96R50-97JR50
Yeah, it did originally have the de-icer but it doesn't work now as the truck has had several new windscreens. I don't need it anyway as NZ doesn't get cold enough, although there was that one time the wipers iced to the screen at the skfield... Would have cost me $$$ anyway.
I think my truck was factory fitted with a cold weather pack - it's got the de-icer, twin batteries and the rear LSD.
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Here's the other fusebox. Nothing HID-related in it.
My truck also has factory remote unlocking.
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Christchurch New Zealand (although I can be found between Queenstown, Dunedin & Chch usually). If you're ever over here be prepared to see a LOT of R50s - because they're basically all diesels and as such are practically unkillable. The TD/QD series engines are some of the most reliable ever made IMO. Known for doing half a million+ kms on basic maintenance alone. The rest of the R50 usually falls to bits before the engine haha. I've even seen numerous late-model R50s with blown ZD30s that have been QD32 swapped.
Fuse box cover
Fuse box insides
HID relay box cover
HID relay
And a shot of the factory twin-battery HID-equipped QD32ETI engine bay... It's very busy and actually quite cramped to work on. Changing the HID bulb - nightmarish.
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9 hours ago, Remus92 said:
I have the same size all terrains on stock wheels with no issues. According to the manufacturer my 31 inch tires actually measure at 30.5.
Yeah mine are actually only rated as 30.5" too, goodride SL366
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Yes, a wider offset rim will worsen the rubbing by increasing the radius of the turn. My father uses the stock wheels. I'm running 31x10.5r15 muddies on OEM wheels with no rubbing.
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Interesting to note that the LHD models have the tyre further to the left than the RHD models.
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It's doable. My father runs this size on his stock Terrano Regulus RS-R. They only rub on full-lock downhills.
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Firstly, the hubs are Aisin brand, not Asian. Secondly, these hubs will NOT fit from a Suzuki Vitara (aka Geo whatever they're called in the states) as the stud pattern to bolt onto the hub is completely different, least not due to the fact that the r50 uses six mounting studs (not five like on the Vitara), for both the hubs and wheels.
Aisin hubs are OEM on a number of Japanese brands and are very strong, better even than Warn - however I do not know if they make a hub for Nissan.
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On 12/3/2018 at 1:57 PM, AlabamaDan said:
Could a brace be inserted between the rails to strengthen that? I know in the Jeep XJ community folks are often finding ways to reinforce the uniframe.
Yes, I intend to brace the radiator support, would not be difficult at all.
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16 hours ago, RainGoat said:
Not sure the LRs work up frontLR springs won't work up front because the front springs are tapered
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4 minutes ago, RainGoat said:
Just be careful of lateral snatches. Also, making a bridle that runs straight from one to the other has been known to crunch the radiator support
Yes, yes it has... my truck is a prime example of that. Lateral snatches should be okay with this design as it's braced underneath at 90 degrees. I've already bent my radiator support getting snatched around a corner from this situation using a bridle...
If you look at the points closely, you'll see they don't quite point straight - I calculated the angle at which my 4 metre long bridle will sit at, and mounted the points at this angle to further reduce the inwards force on the lower rad support. As well, the front of my skidplate (4 mm alloy) mounts on the lower rad support with 4 bolts to further support it.
I'm going to brace the radiator support between the two lower bolts with a section of 50x50x5 mm angle iron I'm getting from a mate to stop it bending any more. However, I'm currently in Dunedin so it'll have to wait until I get back to Christchurch.
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14 minutes ago, AlabamaDan said:
Nice looking job. I'd love to do that on my QX4.
Wasn't expensive. Total cost $45NZ (after selling my leftover metal back to the scrappie haha). Although I did use a number of tools etc my father and I have collected over the years eg high-speed drill, bits, jigsaw, and a bench grinder with wire wheel.
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Done! They look good and seem pretty solid.
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2 hours ago, RainGoat said:
You might want a keeper on them, especially if they end up upside down.
Don't worry, I have the keepers. Just didn't put them in the photo
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6 mm plate steel is tough stuff to cut and drill. These points are a bit over-engineered IMO.
Cutting & drilling:
The finished pieces:
Pieced together as they will be installed:
Will fit them tomorrow morning and take some pics then.
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I've been working on a little project over the past two days - namely fitting rated recovery hooks to the front of my Terrano. This project was done to bridge the gap until if/when I get around to fitting a bullbar.
The mounts are constructed out of 6 mm angle iron, 125x75x6 mm. I purchased a 1.2 m length for $13NZ. Very cheap.
Next, I traced the standard tie down loop pattern onto the side of it and drilled it to fit.
I then fitted it with the 125 mm section facing up vertically, and the 75 mm section out laterally, on which I have mounted the recovery hooks.
To brace the bottom, I have cut a section of 6 mm plate and braced it to the original bolt hole on the bottom of the radiator support.
I also plan to cut a section of 50x50x5 mm angle iron to brace the front of my radiator support.
Pictures will follow.
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I would just rebuild your current TD27 or as you've done find a good one. The TD engine is one of the most reliable on the planet, but they are prone to overheating if the cooling system is neglected. I'd buy a new radiator or have the old one flushed properly to avoid blowing the head on your new engine.
I have the QD32ETI in my R50 Terrano and it's a great engine, heaps of power.
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Sorry to hear too. On my father's pathfinder we just bypassed the radiator and ran the tranny fluid straight to the factory external cooler.
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On 11/24/2017 at 11:04 AM, XPLORx4 said:
The Russian R50 rally team retrofitted or modified the suspension with beefier rear links and stronger front control arms. I'm also guessing that the struts are also not something you can get off the shelf at your average auto parts retailer. For rally competitions, the entire interior is gutted and retrofitted for rally purposes. Weight reduction is key, because they're adding back a lot of weight with spare parts, etc.
That engine looks like a Diesel power plant, not a petrol engine (VG35). That's also a very nice radiator!
I reckon that's a VG33. You can see the two cylinder heads on either side, and the intake manifold seems to match. It's definitely not a TD series diesel, looks nothing like those, and the turbo should be where the air filter is.
Bilstein 33-185552
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by KiwiTerrano
They will fit but again need to be mounted upside down.
However, this is entirely doable. This is because firstly, unlike the KYB, the Bilstein is a monotube shock and will work inverted, instead of having no damping and eventually failing like the KYB will.
Secondly, the Bilstein has no steel shaft cover, so will not fill with water/mud. I would still recommend using a rubber cover to avoid grit damaging the seals.
Lastly, I actually recommend mounting them upside down on the pre-facelift anyway, as some longer shocks will hit the panhard rod and become damaged if installed with the body down. The altered mounts on the facelift solve this problem by moving the bottom of the shock further out.