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SkipHarrah

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About SkipHarrah

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1990 Pathfinder SE-V6 4DR
  • Place of Residence
    Sonoma, CA
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    45+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1990

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sonoma, CA
  • Country
    United States
  1. I found upgraded Knock Sensor wire (shielded single conductor) from Z1 Motorsports. My mechanic installed the new wire from Knock Sensor connector 111E all the way to Engine Control Harness connector 102E, repaired the bad clip job on Injector No 6 connector 113E, and did a beautiful job of adding new wiring loom to the old Engine Control Harness. He left my temporary Condenser replacement as is. The old 1990 SE ran beautifully when I picked it up and the first five miles of my six-mile trip home. It lost power, belched white smoke out the tail pipe and died on a steep grade approaching home. I was able to roll backwards down the hill into a neighbors driveway. Upon lifting the hood I could see a portion of the main harness smoking. It was later determined to be the black wire to the distributor ground 56M that originates at the Condenser 105E via 70M/101E connector. I'm in the process dissecting burnt/melted harness and restoring/rebuilding one wire at a time. I'm hoping to get a new OEM Engine Control Harness from MegaZip's Japanese Warehouse, but it's beginning to look iffy. Ordered/Paid on Oct 5th and hasn't ship yet. I'm expecting to get word they can't deliver, just like all the other Nissan parts distributors I've contacted. Next stop will be the wrecking yards I suppose.
  2. I'm curious to know if there has been any progress on your injector harness project? I've got a harness project of my own. I ordered an OEM Engine Control Harness [24078-14G00] from MegaZip.net Japanese Warehouse on Oct 5th; it has yet to ship as of today Oct 13th. I'm beginning to think they really don't have it/can't get it. Anybody have any experience with MegaZip? While waiting for the new Engine Control Harness, I'm rebuilding the injector leg/branch (70M) of the Main Harness [and the leg/branch of the Main Harness that includes the ground wire to the Distributor (56M)]. The ground wire lit up like the filament of an incandescent light bulb and cooked everything around it. I've carefully dissected that portion of the harness and now reconstructing with new wire. Hopefully the electrical event did not cook the ECU.
  3. Thanks for the post. I'll go over the details with my mechanic in the morning. I'll post results when I have some.
  4. Well I got the missing/burnt capacitor/condenser piece installed well enough to do further testing. I left the resistor piece alone (other than removing and cleaning) since it tested just fine. The Code 34 continued to show up as before. Also I began getting a Code 51 immediately. Subsequently found out that the connector on newly installed #6 injector had worked it's way loose, bad clip job. We also have learned the shielded wire going to the knock sensor has become compromised/broken midway from the knock sensor connector (111E) and Engine Control Harness Connector (102E). The rest of the harness and connectors are in reasonably good shape. We are currently searching for replacement shielded wire for the knock sensor. Does anybody have a spec on that shielded wire? And a place to get it other than the wrecking yard. I have a bunch of heavy duty shielded audio/speaker cables. Why wouldn't that work in this application?
  5. I'll give these a shot, since I've got no cap at the moment I got these two caps @ $5 a piece. I can keep an eye on both the cap and resistor where they are located. I also noticed (by testing with the multimeter) that there is clearly a positive and negative side of this particular "non-polarized" cap. I'll mount the neg side to the black wire and pos side to the black w/white stripe wire just for good measure. Might be able to salvage the socket side of the blob, we'll see. This will be my project for the day. I'll post my results when I have some.
  6. Now, I'm getting confused. Tested all five several times. Got readings of 1.622 through 1.629 initially. Put fresh batteries in my Multimeter, then got readings of 1.653 through 1.657. Color band codes on the resistors (red, red, red) indicate 2200 ohms with silver band (10%) tolerance. The RadioShack package label reads "Carbon Film Resistor 2.2K-Ohm 1/2-Watt 5% tolerance". You think I should try again from somebody else? P.S. Never mind. I learned how to set my Multimeter correctly. New readings run from 2.165 to 2.176. So we're good. P.P.S. Just got the Capacitors. Another RadioShack item. I'm worrying a bit about the stated Operating Temp of -40F to +185F. The low side is not an issue, but the high side at 185F sitting on top of the WG30E seems to be pushing the limit. The Resistor packaging does not provide an Operating Temp range. I don't think RadioShack anticipates using these products on things other than radio equipment, e.g. the caps are spec'd for speaker crossover: 8kHz at 8 ohms.
  7. On my 1990 SE VG30E Engine Harness layout (page EL-93 and EL-99) 87M is the Main Harness female side of the connector and 22E is the Battery Cable Harness male side (I think) . The picture above doesn't seem to match up exactly like the connector on my 1990 SE; mine is two terminal but more square. Just my two-bits worth. Do you need both sides of the connector? Or just 22E or 87M?
  8. I just got my supply of Resistors thru Amazon. I ordered the 2.2K ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistor 5-pack. It appears I got 10% tolerance instead, judging by the Silver band on the end. Would that make a difference in my application? I'm still waiting on the Capacitor which is coming separately from another supplier.
  9. Thanks SpecialWarr. I'm hoping I don't have to go down after the Knock Sensor again. I got some great help from Slartibartfast under my Topic 1990 PATHFINDER SE-V6 4DR. The repair parts for the Resistor and Condenser (Capacitor) arrive today. We'll see if the Code 34 and Code 51 disappear by fixing that component first.
  10. Amazon yes: I found a single 2.2 uF 50V 20% Nonpolarized Electrolytic Capacitor 9000Hz for $5.00 and two different 2.2K ohm 1/2W 5% Carbon Film Resistors; a 5-pk w/longer leads for $10.46 and a 10-pk w/0.028 in (0.70 mm) leads for $5.78. Resistors seem to be more plentiful than Condensers/Capacitors. I didn't find a polarized capacitor at all. I'm an Amazon regular and saved a number of items in my private shopping list. I thought of using the Solder Seal Wire Heat Shrink Butt Connectors for install. Yes; I corrected the second wire tested to the B/W. Further testing today I learned that the B/W goes hot when the Ignition Switch is turned ON; which means 12V would be going through the condenser/capacitor to the B wire to ground at the Distributor. Does that make sense? I wasn't expecting that. My original 1990 Ignition Key Switch and Inhibitor Switch were replaced in 2002. I wonder if that is when the thing melted. The B/W wire goes only to the Coil and branches through the knock sensor connector (102E)<->(71M) main harness connector then to the Ignition Switch (221M). I checked for continuity on the B wire and got 0.8 (or 0.003) ohm reading. Continuity for the larger B/W wire tested 7.3 (or 0.013) ohms. Would that be because it's a thicker wire or a problem at the Ignition Switch?
  11. Wow...Thanks for the post. Where should I shop for new stuff? Fry's maybe? The 8115 code you found on the end of the module looks very much like a manufacturing date format used by early garage door operator makers, i.e. 15th week of 1981. I looked at my blob closer today and found it's the (B) - Black wire that is completely detached from the plug-in module (the terminal is gone) but still attached to the harness side of the blob. The Black wire appears to remain intact all the way to the Distributor grounding point (56M) via 101E : 70M. My circuit tester lit up by clipping the exposed piece on the harness blob and touching the battery positive terminal. Got the same response by clipping the exposed B/W wire also. Can't figure out how it is reaching ground that way (through Ignition Coil maybe?).
  12. Thanks. I found a less busy diagram on EF&EC-100 with the same info you describe. Also an image of the "replaceable" Resistor/Condenser plug can be found on EF&EC-152. Diagnostic Procedure 6 for Ignition Signal (Code No. 21) asks to check for continuity from the Harness Side (H.S.) of the 105E Connector, while also checking for resistance between terminals (a) and (b) of the Resistor plug without clearly identifying which terminals are (a) and (b). Of course I can't test anything since the four-terminal Resistor/Condenser plug and harness connector are a single melted blob on the end of four wires. I'm going to inspect the blob more closely with some magnification to see if I can determined which wire is broken completely. L = Blue, B/W = Black w/White Stripe, B = Black, W/G = White w/Green Stripe. Do you suppose I can manufacture these items separately. I think I might be able to fit some butt connectors with the available wires. Might even need to split open the harness from which the blob is protruding. I've got a lot of left over wiring loom from other jobs. I've got a lot of old, and new, radio controls (transmitters and receivers) used in the garage door opener and automatic gate opener business. I wonder if these particular resistors and/or condensers/capacitors might be found on a radio control circuit board?
  13. Thanks. I really appreciate your help. That wiring foldout is a real challenge. I have to project it onto my bedroom wall in order to see it completely & clearly. I wonder if the image could be converted to a large blueprint? I just tried to upload an acrobat.pdf of the 1990 Circuit Diagram (p 1529) only. It's too big.
  14. SpecialWarr : Do I understand that you were able to create a tool to remove the harness retainer clip and connector from the Knock Sensor without removing the Upper and Lower Plenum?
  15. Thanks Slartibartfast for the post. I see that you have a 1993 SE but referenced the '95 FSM. Are the '90 thru '95 SE and FSMs the same or nearly so? I've got a '90 FSM if you're interested. As ugly as the thing looks, it doesn't seem to be affecting anything. Although I'm consistently getting a Trouble Code 34 with no CEL even after replacing the Knock Sensor with a Hitachi OEM part. I got rid of a Trouble Code 51 by replacing all the Injectors and the old VG30E is running great right now. I've yet to get a Trouble Code 21. I'd like to repair the Resistor & Condenser unit in the harness to see if that magically makes the Code 34 go away. I don''t relish the idea of chasing the harness all the way down under to the new Knock Sensor.

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