Citron
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Posts posted by Citron
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For $25 buy a code reader.
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I had one with a mild turbo and it was still pretty gutless.
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Stock the 3.8 is pretty gutless. You would definitely need to take advantage of the aftermarket. I have always wanted to see a Ford 300 straight six put in a pathy. Talk about low rpm torque.
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Sounds like a good excuse to buy a cnc table.
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Word.
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First step to electrical work is to buy a multi meter. You could test for voltage at the blower on hi setting, then work your way back until you find voltage. Then you would know which component was fried.
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Also interested to hear peoples input on this as the RR ones are especially expensive if you live in Canada
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Yet another reason not to live in Canada.
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Fiberglass the hole.
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So glad I don't need to pass emissions test here.
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Micahfelker
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Check spark.
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I don't know if you have ever watched The Red Green show, but it is classic. This is an ad he did. Look up red green handyman's corner on YouTube. Like he says, if women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.
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Yes sir. Both of them.
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Took my metric tool bag out of the finder so I could use the tools to pull the engine on my wife's Subaru.
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I have always had flyweels resurfaced at a machine shop. Never felt the need to replace one.
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I have noticed the same thing with postimage. It must have a time limit on keeping pics.
Nice pic btw.
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Yes, distributor is ignition timing, camshaft is valve timing. If it is at TDC and the distributor rotor is in the general direction of #1, then you are on the compression stroke.
Then, get the cam dimples as close as you can, but don't have to be exact, to the dimples on the backplate. Put on the timing belt and make sure the marks on the timing belt line up with all of the dimples on the cam gears and the crank sproket. Make sure you have the right number of teeth between the dimples, and you should be good to go.
Oh, and adjust the tensioner to spec so the belt isn't too loose and slips.
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The marks on the backplate are guidelines. The cams don't need to line up exactly. Get them close, then make sure you have the correct number of teeth between the dimples. With 1 at TDC.
As far as compression, your timing is probably off. If the valves are open even a little in the compression stroke, then you will not get anything. Basically a repeat of what Slarti said.
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Beat out some stiff competition.
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It does make it a bit easier to pull the wires off of the plugs later.
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I am at 265000 and also run 5w30. I only get ticking on start up.
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Never knew about the yellow dot.
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In preparation for a run this weekend, I pulled it into the shop to give it a once-over. Checked belts, hoses, fluids. Loaded gear. Did a light check and found that both front blinkers were out. Fixed one, ran out of time so will work on the other tomorrow. Now that I moved from the forest I only drive it once every few months.
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Ecu issues
in 2005-2012 R51 Pathfinders
Posted
They will read all of the obdII codes, which should be all of the check engine lights. What the won't read is the manufacturer specific codes, which usually relate to manufacturer specific equipment.