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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1994 SE, bought on Oct 2, 2016 to join my collection as daily driver when the differential bearing went out in my 85 Maxima.
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Location
    New Mexico
  • Country
    United States

Vern_K's Achievements

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  1. or you might be able to find a rubber grommet that would be the right size at a hardware store, or give the dealership a call they might have some on hand since it's something they should have had on hand for doing timing belts
  2. ok can't edit yet I guess but it goes on the bottom out side of the reservoir, just went and looked at mine, will post pixs for you in a min
  3. yep reservoir level plug, if you have a cheep aftermarket reservoir it might not have one or wasn't pluged back in after master cylinder change it should plug in on the bottom of the reservoir on the inside side, doesn't look burnt just like old electric grease, more then likely it will clean up with a small screw driver and some carb cleaner then put some fresh deletric grease and your set. If it was burnt you would see more warping and such.....
  4. they are hard to get a hold of, I have tried regarding my 200sx project thats using a VQ ECU, I don't think they do anything with the non OBD2 ECU..... yep just checked and they don't list anything older then a 2003. I think about the only options for VGs is remove the chip and have a socket put in or have Nistune put a daughter board in, with the VG you should be able to use a supported ECU (i.e. 300z) from another VG car, I know that the 300z ECU will plug right into a 2nd gen Maxima, not sure if you would have to repin for a Pathfinder
  5. depending on how tunable you want to get, but you might want to check into this https://www.nistune.com/index.php/nistune-shop/nistune-boards
  6. ok yea thats right the only things that came with a A/B were Maxima's and 300 and the first year of VG30i, I also don't remember what VG30E have the long crank snout been a while since I was looking into such things. I think I have been cramming to much VQ engine info into the engine file.....
  7. might be just a WD21, but if you have CV shaft bolts that the impact won't break loose this is what I did passanger side, big pry bar Drivers side a little simpler
  8. finding info on VGs can be kind of a pain at time so I will help you a bit early VG30E= A-B block also includes the VG30i which is the single injector throttle body. W block VG30E is from 86-87 on, not sure of the switch date. mixing and matching A-B block and W block heads can be done with a little extra work but some combos don't work. ​the VG30E is found every where all the blocks were made with mounting bosses for both FWD and RWD so a Maxima engine will go into a pathfinder by switching the mounts and such..... VG30DE= no use and trying to put the head on a VG30E block, to much work switching timing belt stuff just use the whole engine VE30DE= 92-94 Maxima SE only engine, based on a VG block with DE timing chain heads, it is kinda a baby step between the VG motor and the VQ VG33E= late VG motor lots of info on here about them..... those engines will bolt to your transmission without a adapter, oil pans and pumps and such might could be a issue with some of them....
  9. what is really fun is when you run about 1/3 E85 and they do the tail pipe sniffer and wonder why your old engine is running cleaner (not that a decent running VG ever runs dirty) then most new cars
  10. she has 235 on so that could be it, for some reason I was thinking it had over size on it already......
  11. Thanks, got to do some work on the pathy yesterday, oil change, cleaned up around the starter had exposed wires, so pulled them out and cleaned them up and recovered them, raised the front end, zipped tied a couple relays that have seem to lost the mounting brackets and were just laying around. Things on the too do list include CV shafts and gear lube change, timing belt, flushed hydraulic lines. Might do a oil fliter relocation kit on so I'm not dumping oil on the starter every time I change oil. She does have a broken exhaust stud so will have to get to that sometime and suspension bushings. For the most part shes in good shape other then a few things that other people have messed up like for some reason the speedo signal has been tapped into, no wires going any where just a clip on thing on each of the wires, the speedo is off so the sending unit might have been changed, she is about 5 mph off at 40 mph and about 10 off at 70 mph. She shakes a bit at highway speeds think most of it is the cheep tires that have all kinds of balance weights on, and or bushings. She must have been hit in the rear or backed into something, the rear bumper is bent up to the point of the hitch mounts bent a little and the hitch is missing.
  12. Oil change, cleaned and recovered starter wires, brake and clutch fluid flush, raised front end to where it should be.

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