ryjaytay38

I finished the pump last night. I got my arm down in the tank and pulled upward on the middle tab of the pump bracket housing with a little more force than I had before and it released from the bottom of the tank. I found a few posts on a google search and the pics were exactly what I was dealing with. I've loaded them onto photo bucket but apparently I'm not as computer savvy as I thought because I can't get them on here. Once I got the housing released, it was clear sailing. It was a little tricky getting the housing bracket to line up with the bottom of the tank after replacing the pump but only took a few minutes of feeling around.

Hey Slartibartfast, Yeah, the pump itself is in a plastic housing which is clipped to the bottom of the tank. There are a few tabs at the back of the housing. Apparently you need to pull up on the center tab for it to release from the bottom then the whole thing comes out. I couldn't figure out if I needed to push down or pull up but after reading a little more and seeing an actual illustration from nissan, you have to pull up. One other guy said he pulled the whole housing unit apart(it's two pieces clipped together) and left the bottom clipped in, took the pump out without the housing. Since it's about 1030pm here, I think I'll go try my luck one more time. I'll let you know if I get it the right way or if the damn thing is coming out in broken pieces because this should not be this difficult.

Hey Guys, Can someone tell me the easiest way to get the fuel pump out of the bottom of the tank? I've been looking/feeling for a clip or some way that it's held down and I can't find anything. The last thing I want to do is pull too hard and break something. I figured there has to be something easy holding it into the little reservoir that it's sitting in. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!! Thanks!!

Hey Guys, Does anyone know an easy way to replace the alternator? I thought I had seen a shortcut on youtube at one point. I think the guy was taking it out from the bottom but I can't remember. Every way I look at it, it looks like it needs to come out from the top. Any helpful tricks or hints would be appreciated!! Thanks!

Hey guys, Last night I changed my spark plugs and ignition coils. Put it back together and now it won't fire, like it isn't getting any spark. What can or should I be looking for? I went over the vacuum lines that I pulled, all connections into the ignition coils and it looks like everything is correct. I can't figure out what I'm missing. Thanks in advance!

I took the front drive shaft off and what do you know? Smooth as can be at 60, 70 80. I will have to figure out the shaft though and get it back on eventually, but at least for now I can drive it and not worry about the shaft coming apart going down the freeway. There's a place here in Phoenix called Dicks Driveshaft that seems pretty reputable. Thanks everyone for you help and input. I'll talk to you all when I decide what other kind of sticky situations I can get myself into with this truck. Thanks again--

Wow! This has been going on too long. So I figured the shaft was probably bent and went and got another at the salvage yard. Put that one on since u-joints felt good. Same vibration at 60. Put new u joints in that one, same vibration at 60. I had changed out plug and ignition coil. That made it vibrate, but this is clearly drive shaft. What would happen if front shaft was it all together? I've owned it since 2010 and never used 4 wheel drive so I don't think I'm getting rid of much if I don't have it. just wonder if it will affect any other parts or systems?

Good call. I'll switch around and see what happens.

I'm going to change out #3. Is it cool to change only the one misfiring or do I need to do them all?

I've kind of put it on hold and worked on it when I can the last few days. One thing that I noticed the first night when it was vibrating was that when I slowed down, the engine was chugging. Last night I put the OBD meter on it and it said "cylinder 3 misfire". I looked on youtube for how to change the ignition coils. There was a video of a guy called, appropriately, how to change ignition coils 2001 nissan pathfinder. His name is jeff tryzbiak. In the end of the video he takes it out for a test ride and said it ran smoothly and solved his vibration at 60 mph. I did not pull the slip joint apart so I don't think there's anyway splines can be off. I pulled the shaft off again to see if joints were binding and they couldn't be more smooth. I painted lines before it came off initially and it went back on the same way. Is this a possibility that the engine misfiring could cause the vibration? I had my doubts because it seems one is mechanical and one is electrical. Any thoughts? I'm hoping ignition coil or spark plug is the answer but this guys video is the first time I've heard that it could be a possibility. Thanks as always!!

Ok, I got my u-joints, put them in, greased them, all seemed great until I hit about 45. At 45, it starts a vibration and by the time I hit 60, it's shaking big time. At low speeds it's great but at 60 it's scary as hell. What am I looking for? I did what Slartibart said and took it slow putting the u joints in, made sure all bases were covered and then thought of him saying he saw one come apart at speed. Doesn't sound like a lot of fun. I saw on another forum where someone switched theirs 180 degrees(back to front) and it fixed his vibration. Is that even possible? Going to take the other truck to work in the morning as I don't want to cause any damage if driving it is damaging anything. I doubt it's helping anything but hopefully youu guys can give me some more good advice and I'll be on it right after work tomorrow! P.S. The clicking noise is GONE!!! Thanks

Yeah it said "wholesaler closeout". There was another link on another forum with a guy talking about getting the same one from "the u-joint store". Neapco sounded pretty solid and reputable after doing a little research. I ordered two so I could do both

I ordered some new ones from Rockauto- Neapco #10449 for $3. I'll let you know after I put them on if that was the problem. Thanks for the advice!

Slartibartfast, if I change front u-joint do I need to change rear u-joint on the same shaft to make it "in sync" or does that not matter?

Yeah I've never done anything with the drive shafts or U joints but that's exactly where it sounds like it's coming from. When I accelerate and it seems to have some torque going to it, is when it happens. I'll give it a shot right now since I have the day off

It speeds up with vehicle speed

I thought maybe the 4 wheel was partially engaged but I've never used the 4 wheel

There is no vibration. It is uniform. Almost like a card in bicycle spokes. It only happens from stand still up to approx 25 miles per hour then dissipates

Hey guys, I've got a clicking noise under the front end on acceleration. It's been there for a while but hasn't gotten any worse. I thought it was CV joint, replaced the axle(s) still there, replaced the wheel bearings, still there. In the last year, I've replaced axles, wheel bearings and seals, control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar links, belts, and struts. Same noise is still there. It slowly dissipates as speed increases but I'm afraid that something is going to break in the middle of nowhere. Could it be drive shaft? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!!

Oh my bad, thats what you were talking about in your previous post.

Thanks everyone for the advice! onespiritbrain, that 55mm tool you have the pics of--I'm guessing that will lock into the tensioning ring? Where did you get that?

Hey Guys, I posted on here a while ago about having some "wandering" in my '01 Pathfinder. I'm going to install all new front bearings and seals and see what it does. I figure that 218k miles without a bearing change, it's probably due. Does anyone know of a step by step tutorial link or any little hints that I can use along the way to make the journey a little less painful? I just don't want to miss anything. Any help or hints would be much appreciated! Thanks!!

Very true. Thanks a lot for the good advice. I'll let you know what I find

So you think solenoid rather than sensor? I found the part number on another forum and when I put it in to different sites it says camshaftsensor/intake valve timing control sensor as if they are the same thing or one can be used for the other. Is that possible?

Hello guy, Does anyone have any ideas where I can get this sensor? Everywhere I look, the part that comes up is cam shaft position sensor. Is it one in the same? I can't find any sites to order anything that says "intake valve timing control sensor". I feel like I'm chasing my tail and refuse to pay the dealership prices. Does anyone know the part number I need? Any suggestions would be welcomed!! Thanks!!