GhostPath
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Posts posted by GhostPath
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:tonguefinger: atleast more mods lol
Cherokees are unibodies, and therefore they are CARS.
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ouch,
should have bought a nissan!!
The coroner's best guess was a heart attack, at which point the unguided Jeep went off the road and into the very tall grasses in the non-mow area. While the area was searched repeatedly when he was reported missing, the grasses had sprung back and the Jeep with its contents was only found by accident years later. IIRC, he'd been missing for 8 years.
From the pictures I saw of the scene, unless he'd had a 15' tall whip antenna with an orange flag on top deployed when he was driving down the road, nobody would have found *any* vehicle in that grass.
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Yeah, that happens. They found the body of some Austin guy just off a main highway in a grass copse, still in his Jeep, a couple of years ago.
And then there's this:
http://www.wishtv.com/global/story.asp?s=8039063
Body found in Jeep identified as missing Plainfield man
Posted: March 19, 2008 09:13 AM
PLAINFIELD, Ind. (WISH) - The body found in the Jeep recovered from a Glen Haven subdivision retention pond has been identified as Harold Brad Hensley.
The ID was made based on dental records.
According to the Hendricks County coroner, the initial autopsy revealed no evidence of significant injuries or trauma but no cause of death has been determined at this time.
Brad Hensley was last seen leaving his Plainfield home in January of 2006.
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Except that if he buys an LS1, he'll get two or three times the horsepower and it won't spazz out and die at high angles like carbed engines do.
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Yeah - but I'm a little pressed for time. It's in the archives - do a search for "timing belt tension".
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Let me guess - no mudflaps, right?
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Not having a deflector sucks! I cant keep my window clean, even with the wiper.
I'll trade in a heartbeat.
Try replacing the wiper arm and spring along with the wiper blade.
The entire rear wiper arm is **$15** or less at the dealer.
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I think you set your timing belt tensioner too tight.
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I need some info on VG30E crankshaft keyways.
Are they single or double? What does it matter if the pulley and timing sprocket slip over the same place? Does it depend on what year pathfinder you have??
The one on my 85 Turbo Z and the one on my 93 Pathfinder both had double key slots, in line behind each other.
It does matter, because if you don't have both, nothing's stopping the unkeyed one from rotating freely.
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Um... I don't see a fuse anywhere in there. Please tell me you have some sort of fuse in-line there!
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For obvious reasons, the WD21s are the best for offroading. The current F-Alpha based Pathfinder has equal promise, but right now it has *no* aftermarket at all and may never have one.
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What purpose does it do... seems a lil goofy to me :coffee!:
also how could i swap it? seems like every pathfinder has them... even yours.. im trying to break away from the stock look... took off the fenderflares, mudflaps, i needa get rid of the bug shield and the rear wing doohickey...
I'll take the fender flares and mudflaps if you don't want them. I can swap you for some "wingless" type hinges.
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there are camera jammers out there.
Active jammers are illegal without an FCC license (which, to be honest, is rather easy to get). Passive jammers are just plain ineffective.
Some of the new cameras reportedly have "pic on jam" features so they just start snapping pics when they get jammed. Pretty easy to figure out who had the jammer then.
A better way of dealing with it is judicially. If you have the time, money, and a lawyer, fight the ticket on civil rights issues and get photo radar banned by the courts.
Here in Texas, we didn't bother. Automated unmanned photo radar, as of the last legislative session, is permanently banned in the state of Texas.
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I had a magically disappearing coolant issue with a Chevy truck, before I left the States... I ck'ed... a couple of my buddies ck'ed and nothing... then the magical teleprotation of coolant increased... and finally there was a small puddle of coolant in a dimple of the engine, in odd location at that... re-ck'ed... nothing... the dimple started overflowing and dripping... re-ck'ed... nothing... I finally ditched work a few min's early one day and I showed my mechanic and he glanced in and ck'ed (quickly)... nothing... my mechanic mentioned it might be arcing from anywhere and told me to bring it back the next day for a real inspection... I decided to change the hose... problem solved... turns out there was an invisable pin hole that lost its magical abilitiy once disconnected...
Either learn how to dispel magic or do a really really really close inspection...
Good Luck
Yes, but this person is reporting that it's magically getting MORE coolant.
My guess is a cracked head or head gasket.
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How about a P&P betwen the 2 manifolds and at the bottome leading into the true "lower intake manifold"?
Port yes, polish no.
The intake tract MUST be rough.
The reason the K&N does better is because it's not stuffed in the restrictive airbox that came from the factory and can therefore flow more air.
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I have taken my 2 upper mannifolds off my VQ a total of 3 times...everytime I note how rough the inside of the manifolds and runners are (and how much PCV blow-by opil collects here)...this leaves air just tumbling around inside, not sliding right in. I suspect that the roughness, smoothed out would deliver some added benefit, and not be too expensive. After all if a K&N adds a 14.46 dyno WHP due to less pipe restriction and open element, then smoothing the inside of the intake manifolds m-u-s-t provide something huh?
My first thought was to have it powder coated inside and out....but that won't really smooth the inside, just fill some nooks...so I am seeking real answers here! Honing? Polishing? Sanding? Mail it out to a pro? Hook me up!
I would love to think that defeating the variable runner gizmo might help, but that may also reduce some torq/MPG, as that is what it is supposedly there for. Lol, that would also entail removing those power valve screws
...eliminating any problem there huh? 
The variable length manifold trick, if defeated, will destroy your low end torque.
Contrary to what the old hotrodders thought, smoothing or polishing the intake runners will actually HURT power production. As computer flow modelling has shown, you need turbulence in the incoming air stream to help create the swirl in the combustion chamber. To do that, you need some roughness in the intake runners.
In this era of tight emissions standards and tighter fuel economy standards, if polishing the runners was going to provide any benefits, you'd see makers doing it. Not even Ferrari polishes the inside of their intake manifolds.
Do try to keep up with the latest in engine tech and research will you?
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hey everyone
i have a 1988 pathy v6 shes got 149,000 miles on her i just put a brand news transmission and clutch in along with wires rotor cap and plugs and adjusted the timing yet in order to shift gears i need to pretty much red line her from idle to 1st if i dont rev her to 4,000rpm's and let out the clutch slow its bogs down and dies also if i some how going downhill with the wind to my back get her in 4th the rpm's drop no matter what and the truck lunges forwards little on and off until i down shift the 3rd i just wanted to ask what you thought before i did a compression check and everything i checked the codes and nothing came up did a real time diagnostic with the ecu and tried to pull codes yet nothing came up again she does this one flat ground and with even the slightest incline theres no smoke no water or coolant in the oil she doesnt over heat the plugs are gapped correctly the erg valve when i have it idle and push the diaphragm the hanes manual says it should bog down or die yet it stays the same also i have trouble starting her cometime hot or cold she starts up and idles for a second then dies unless i give her gas even when i up the idle switch she does the same, and when idling if i give her to much gas she bogs out and dies the fuel filter is also new and in the right direction
please any help or ideas would be very much appreciated
thank you
When did you last do the timing belt? This sounds like the timing belt jumped time.
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both my 95 and 93 have the vents under the seats.......
oh ya the 95 is an xe and the 93 is an se if that matters
Pics, please. I haven't seen any 95 US WD21s down here with underseat vents, and I've seen plenty of them in the boneyards.
Not saying yours doesn't have it, I've just not seen them and I want to see what they look like.
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For some reason I was thinking of my 03 pathy which has them under both seats but you are right Ghostpath there is not one in the 87-89's
There isn't one in the 90-95's either, so I think we can conclude that the WD21 never had it in the US.
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is it under both front seats or one and is it easy to locate.
There's no factory air ducting to the back seat, what they're talking about is the floor rusting out and letting cold air in.
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what do you guys think of them?
Yes, it's been covered already. Long story short, use the NGKs that Nissan specified for best results.
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I bought a non Nissan water pump when I did my first timing belt. It went bad a couple of months later and there I was doing the T-belt/Water pump change again.
Now my rule is if it's deep in the engine, or a pain in the ass to R & R, I'll go with a Nissan part. Of course I've never ever had a problem with other jobber parts.
My thoughts exactly. If a non-Nissan accessory belt goes, it's not the end of the world. If a non-Nissan water pump goes bad, you get to redo everything on the front of the engine...
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A Nissan unit isn't much more than the $50 Autozone ones. Now, I'm being unnecessarily paranoid, I suppose, but since the timing belt is critical and a bad waterpump can lead to a broken engine when the timing belt snaps, I tend to go genuine Nissan for that.
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You either have a short, your fuel pump has an obstruction that it can't roll through, or your fuel pump is screwed.
Take off the access panel and check it.
Help, please. Need advice re. timing belt issue.
in General Forums
Posted
Unless you just messed up the belt while changing a water pump or some such, you're out of luck; you have a 99.999995% chance that you smacked a valve into a piston. It's not even a question.
Both mechanics are correct. If you dismantle the front of the engine down to the point where you can replace the timing belt, you're also at the point where you can replace the pump, main seal, tensioner, and most of the related parts with little or no additional labor (or cost).
But if you do all that labor, then even partially assemble the timing stuff to do a compression check, you're going to have to tear it all back down again if it fails. And it probably will.
The second mechanic is trying to save you more money, IMHO.
Either way, you are looking at a head rebuild/replacement as a best case scenario. You may be better served by putting a used JDM engine in the truck instead, of course.