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GhostPath

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Posts posted by GhostPath

  1. Check your tension/compression rods in your front suspension (one per side - if 4WD, they form the trailing side of your lower "A-Arm" setup). One or both is probably broken; or at the very least you've got missing bushings on one.

  2. No need to be rude , you are the first person who brought any usable info as to what may be wrong other than the guy who called it a pos , so we wont count him. Thats all i wanted was what this guy posted . But in fact it is not just frikkin selectable. That makes it sound like theres a switch . I looped the orange wire back together and now i have a normal blow up at 6450 pathy like everyone else here.

     

    It *is* selectable. It just uses jumper wires instead of a switch because the Autogage line is the cheap one for Autometer.

     

    Autometer's top line gauges sometimes have a switch on the back; Sun, VDO, and Stewart Warner almost all have switches on the back or inside the back housing, too.

     

    Check out this manual for the top line Cobalt Digital tach by AutoMeter: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1222.pdf

    You configure it via buttons, even!

     

    Oh, and when you post stuff like the below, running down someone else's truck? Don't expect a real friendly welcome, no matter what the provocation. I'm surprised more people weren't ruder.

     

    So that means your pos 6450 rpm pathy sucks and mine has a cam and some mods i didn't know about. {snip} Oh and fyi the monster tachs (and all others other than the old cable drives)run on a signal from the coil. It makes not a ******* of difference if it is a 4-6- or 8 .

     

     

    As you have just discovered, some of us *may* know a thing or two about hardware that you don't. I'm not the most knowledgable person on WD21s in here, but I'm okay on PF-specific stuff and good to excellent on general automotive (I build monster Jaguars for *fun*).

     

    Unfortunately, I think you just insulted some of those people who are much, much better than I am.

  3. yeh but i'm old so your rambling doesn't affect me. It's not like i'm an 18 yr old newbie. Well any of you washington guys can see it for your self sometime. I will travel for a good run. That is as long as its off road and not some gravel road like the king county guys call 4 wheeling. Oh well let me go buy an imaginary selectable tachometer now . I do know that if anything is wrong with it, It is the fact that its last home was a yota and its used to being part of a failing team. haha

    Maybe tonight after work i can make a video from in the cab dogging the truck through the higher rpm's and put it on. If any one does have an old cluster laying around, i would like to buy a needle for my stock tach.

     

    I've refrained from getting deeply involved in this, but you just asked for it.

     

    Hm. "Imaginary" selectable tach?

     

    Let's see.

     

    You say you have a "Monster Tach". That would be the AutoMeter-made one, right?

     

    Here's the instructions for it: http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1076B.pdf

     

    And, oh, look, here on page 1. A section labelled "CALIBRATION" with instructions on how to wire it up so it reads accurately for different engine cylinder counts. So, yes, it's selectable for the number of cylinders.

     

    Congratulations. **********************************************

  4. You'd need to have a JWT, Stillen, or Nismo ECU - unless you got NisTune, then you might be able to change it, but Nistune hasn't been around for very long. And it's pretty obvious if you have any of those three aftermarket ECUs.

     

    Thing is... the only people who ever use that kind of stuff are the boosted guys - the VG30ET and VG33ER powered cars and trucks. The VG heads just *can't* flow enough while normally aspirated to make much power over 5500 or so.

  5. Um... your Monster tach is off, probably by not an insignificant amount. Do you have it set for 4, 6, or 8 cylinder operation?

     

    You WILL slam valves at 6500 (if not before - but the DEATH FOR SURE RPM is ~6500) unless you have installed lighter valves and/or higher pressure valve springs.

     

    My guess - you have it set to 4 cylinder operation and it's reading more RPM than it's actually getting.

  6. Courtesy's lookup is like FAST...

     

    Only slower, dumber, and with obfuscated part numbers. And it's a lot less accurate.

     

    It's like comparing a Little Red Wagon (not the Dodge) to a Hardbody. Same general idea (something to haul crap around in), but one is a lot better.

     

    No substitute for FAST. I've used better systems, true, but FAST makes Courtesy's catalog look lame.

  7. Flowmasters suck - they all drone at highway speeds. My call (and this is what I'll be doing next year after hearing one that was configured like this): Magnaflow freeflow cat, Magnaflow muffler, all in 2.5".

  8. I know it's possible to have drum/LSD - seen enough of them in the junkyard.

     

    Dunno about disk/open. I'll be scavenging the junkyards for a rear disc axle soon, so I'll see what there is to see. I suspect it was possible - say, an XE special ordered with discs.

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