mjotrainbrain
-
Posts
2,770 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
101
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by mjotrainbrain
-
-
That's really unfortunate! I'm surprised you're having this issue as far south as Tennessee!
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, R50_QX4 said:
Sorry for bringing up old topics again, brought this up in another post, but any suggestions on what camber bolts to buy? Been trying to read old forums and can’t find much. It’s for a 2002 qx4 with 2” strut spacer lift. Doesn’t look like the camber in off but must be a little bit because tire is wearing fast on passenger side wall. Also how do you know what to set bolts to for 0 camber?
Thanks
All I can say is DON'T use camber bolts from Advance Auto. I had several fail on me (although that was probably due to the alignment shop grossly overtorquing them; never broke one that they'd never touched.....)
As far as getting the camber exactly to zero, there are some tricks you can do for a DIY alignment but a proper alignment at a shop will be your best bet, just make sure the tech doing the job knows you've modified the vehicle to have adjustable camber and explain where the bolts for it are.
-
Sounds like you've got a pretty sweet ride that drives nicely now!
-
Finding taller gears for the front end is going to be difficult, they never really made many varieties OEM and all the aftermarket ones I know of (and those are very rare) are lower. Your best bet would probably be to source gears from overseas from an Pathy that was originally a diesel, it may not be as high as you'd like but it'll be at least better matched for the engine.
-
Broke away from Micah's thread since it's unrelated.
-
Broke comments about camber bolts off into their own thread.
-
2
-
-
4 minutes ago, Astrorami said:
Definitely change it. Parts are less than $200. If you can do the work yourself it’ll save several hundred dollars.
Mjo: I’ve been trying to get a hold of you for a few days. PM me!
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkJust replied.
And agreed about the level of work. I'd never done more than suspension and brakes prior to this job and didn't find it difficult to do on my 4Runner, just a little time consuming because I went slow and careful.
-
When I left mine exposed I got an intake full of water rather easily. I'd suggest ditching it, plugging up the hole in the bottom of the airbox, and putting a new hole (covered with mesh) on the top of the airbox. Should be nice and safe from water intrusion that way without having to buy an expensive snorkel.
-
2
-
-
If it were me I'd change it. It's definitely more robust than a regular belt, but at the end of the day it's a 22 year old piece of rubber, I wouldn't trust it for much longer. You certainly wouldn't trust 22 year old tires!
-
2
-
-
Dog fight
-
you too
-
-
Lost generation
-
Go away
-
Straight ahead
-
Quest van
-
Night vision
-
Peripheral vision
-
Clogged arteries
-
2 hours ago, Tomek said:
So not to derail this thread, but are snorks worth it on the R50?
I can't see myself going over the hood in water, but better performance than stock intake?
Absolutely yes. The air box connects to the fender and on the other side has some tubes that go down a bit. I don't know how much of an issue it is with the stock bumper cover and wheel well liners intact, but if you get a custom bumper, you'll no longer have need for the front inner wheel well liners, and then the intake will be exposed and can easily take in water during a crossing - I know unfortunately.
If you don't have the cash for a snorkel and want something better than stock you can eliminate the piping beneath the airbox and block off the hole in the bottom of the air box. Then cut a ~4" diameter hole in the top of the airbox and cover with some kind of mesh/expanded metal to keep large debris out. Now you'll have to be in water up to the hood to have an issue.
-
3
-
-
Lot lizard
-
1
-
-
I'm no expert on shock options, but there is a good bit of information in existing threads on the forum, for example there's some good discussion throughout here:
As far as tire wear, the front would make sense as far as camber being off, but not the rear. Other than a bent axle (which is definitely an extreme option) I don't know of anything that would cause uneven rear tire wear, so it's certainly puzzling.
-
Hall monitor
-
Down town
97 QX4 Fixer Upper
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
That does seem to be a poorly placed bracket. My theory is heat cycles from the cats/manifolds on the other side. Apparently this causes frame issues on old Explorers. I'm sure it's an unfortunate culmination of lots of things. I wonder if anybody from the southwest has had strut tower issues? I can't imagine just salt/snow is to blame, or else lots of other parts of the vehicle where it could collect should be showing rust.