MaxRX7

good story, would read again A+

Hey, I suspect I have a leaking water pump as a small amount of coolant is dripping in between the main crankshaft pully. can anybody concur? I find no other source of leak from the radiator, or related hoses. Is there an easy way to just replaced the water pump, because from what I've read is that it is basically like changing the timing belt which is a big job. thanks

wow what a thread, I like this guy and his philosopy. "finer aspects of the female of the species....even tho at 66 I can't do anything (as if I'd get the chance!" shoot you should see my dad, he is 1 or 2 years older than you, married, and still pulling the females, some in their 20s. Now I never said they are the most attractive, but not that bad either, anyways gotta give my old man props for that.

Just FYI.... I skipped on the KYBs and went to the adjustable RS9000XL and let me tell you I haven't really adjusted them much, but the truck is definately more stable (it's not bouncy and jumpy like it was before). So the ride is way smoother now. When I compared these shocks with the Sensatracs, the difference was clear as day. These Ranchos are way thicker and look beefier. Only real reason I went with them was to take advantage of the buy one get the 2nd one 50% off. so overall not a bad deal, just hope they mail me my rebate check. so what do think of them so far?

Caddy SRX and on occasion a Scion xb

the polys are always better and will def. last longer by not deintergrating like in pic. plus they won't get mushy in due time like rubber.

same thing happened with you. bascially when a relay is dying it doesn't go out 100%, it might still click on and off a few more times. like if you were to tap on the gray module maybe it'll work for another week or so. the alarm is on a seperate module that's why it is not affected. you shouldn't have to reprogram your remote.

same thing happen to me a few years ago. the clicking is from the relay that is stuck. go to the back drivers side and pull off the plastic side panel. there you'll see a gray box with a wiring harness. it's called a door lock timer or something like that. basically you'll have to replace it by (buying a new one, replacing the relay inside, or taking your chance with one out of the junkyard).

Thanks guys, looks like I'm going to try out the KYBs and hopefully I'll be happy with them, if not I'm going for the RS9000s so I'll be able to adjust to my liking. yep, I bet there is a huge difference going to Bilstein. Also heard great things about the OME. Just too pricey for me to take a gamble right now.

I'm tried of these monroe sensatracs I have on right now... they are way too soft and have less than 10k miles. They are the right model number for my Pathfinder, but they feel like they don't belong on this truck (way too smushy ride). I mostly drive in the city so I am not looking for off-road shocks or lifted or what have you. Just want some personal feedback about how the ride quality and taking corners feel with Ranchos, EMU, KYBs or whatever other brands out there.

you are absoulety correct. I wish you would have posted this like a year ago so when I researched the Wd21 speedo I would have seen your reply. what glue did you use? I even tried gorilla glue and failed. With all my research I never found a definate answer about the cable tip "needle" being a "one-peice" to the speedo cable. Before I went on to replace the entire speedo cable assembly I tried so many different things (mainly tring to put the tip back onto the part that spins. So I tried the glue and after letting it sit in place and harden for a few days, then I drove around with it working for like 2 blocks and gave out. also tried to find a similar spring but longer to put more pressure to keep the tip in place also failed. I figured I could buy a similiar tip size and crimp it on, but I would have to do more trail and error. In the end I bit the bullet and it works. Stupid cable design, why would they make the tip out of plastic. and the way it attached is just plain dumb. Also, FYI I bought a $10 generic speedo cable with crimp on tip, but the problem with that was that the tranmission end did not have the "key".

no I didn't remove anything, although w/o it in the way it would have been 90% easier. I just disconnected one of those hoses and helped a bit. I spent the majority of the time getting at the screws from the passenger side. it sucks but doable, goodluck.

yeah, I did this earlier this month. I just used a combination of a regular 10mm wrench, socket, and a phillips tip on a flexible 12inch. Lots of going back and forth with the 3 of them. I had sore forearms for 2 days afterwards. putting it back on sucked even more, but suprisingly took me less time then expected. (cursing helped a lot though).

well, FYI don't know if it's possible with the WD21 or benefit, but I once disconnected the main wiring harness from the ECU and poked it through the firewall when I pulled out an engine instead of removing all the connectors from the wiring harness. This was with a rotary when I swapped out an engine.

I'm curious about the correlation between the ABS lights and the alternator

Sometimes randomly I'll turn the key and get nothing (no clicks, engine turning over, etc.) other than the usual dash lights. What I've noticed is that if I jiggle the auto transmission lever back and forth a few times it then would crank. Before I start ripping into my truck, has this happened to anyone or makes sense? I'm assuming there will be some wire or related from this area to the ignition?

ouch, thanks guys

I cannot tackle this job myself do to lack of tools and time. I need to find a shop because I always do maintence work on my own. How much should I expect to pay for a shop to swap out both lower ball joints on a WD21 (93 Pathfinder 4x4). I just want an general estimation, so I could have an idea as to not get shafted.