cooldrew22

i agree with checking your distributor first however a problem i had recently which sounds similar to yours in which the car just lost power one day and wouldn't restart. theres a body harness plug that is up under the driver side frame rail next to the gas tank in the far back. this plug started to separate on me and the computer would have intermittent connection with the fuel pump. might be worth checking only takes 2 minutes just gotta get your hand up there with a flashlight and make sure that plug is clean and connected.

the ground for the coil wire is controlled by the ECU. locate the wire that runs from the ECU plug to the relay, then do a Voltage drop test from the pin at the ECU to the #2 side of the coil i believe. what your looking for at key on is the voltage to go from 12.6 (battery) drop down to under 1v this will show that the ECU is correctly grounding the relay coil for that 5 second priming period.

update: found the issue! after messing around with everything and checking the ECU and relay and the pump harness the truck started up. i decided to start messing around with the harness in the tailgate section trying to get the truck to turn off and it did! so i started it up again and kept messing with wires until it shut off until i was able to narrow down what section of the harness had the problem. Turns out there was a harness plug that was becoming slightly disconnected and two wires that were rubbing on a section of the frame, so that's fixed and she runs great now!

yeah i realized that a little while after i wrote that haha and just the pump, but i did check the wire, at the pump terminal and it was receiving a clean 12V. and the ground circuit was dropping a normal 0.03V so that's within good limits. but ya at this point im thinking it's gotta be a bad ground or loose wire in a strange section that's moving around when i drive

yeah i checked it with a known good relay and also confirmed that i was getting 12 volts at the coil for the relay. also, the random time that it did start and run confirms that technically the circuit is all good and intact since it did in fact run fine for a few days, i dono if relay's often intermittently fail. I've been skimming through the FSM for it and also checked with another source and im gonna go ahead and check Crank Sensor and Cam Sensor and then confirm my ECCS relay is functioning and verify that the ECU is supplying ground for the pump relay

Alright, so I have a 1992 Pathfinder SE, 5 speed, RWD. first thing i did when i bought the truck was do all preventative maintenance: new starter new battery distributor cap and rotor spark plugs all fluids fuel filter all belts checked my grounds and battery terminals. the other night (about a month ago) came home and the truck wouldn't start, crank but no start. seemed like fuel issue so pulled the pump and had a friend turn the key, no prime. So, tapped on the pump while cranking and it came to life. so i figured i have a failing pump, well drove it for another few weeks no problem then it died on me doing 70mph on the highway, just shut off and wouldn't start. so i finally bought a pump. installed the new pump and nothing, no prime, no start, just cranking. checked the wiring and it's receiving power at the pump and the relay is good. WHILE i was checking codes on ecu i heard the pump prime randomly, decided to try and start it and she started right up. no idea what i did but whatever it ran. drove it all week and today, pulling out of a gas station shifting into 3rd gear it just shuts off, so i popped it into second but it wont start up again even pop starting it. now back to cranking with no start and i swear im not getting fuel but i dont know why the fuel pump is not coming on. i checked and cleaned all my grounds, it has a full tank of gas, reset the ecu, checked my ignition relays, nothing. anyone have any ideas? or ever seen a car (5speed none the less) just turn off while driving? any ideas at all, Thanks in advance!

Love the box idea, looks really nicely done! truck looks great and sounds like it's going to be a pretty sweet rig when all is said and done! keep it up!

sorry for the late reply! just checked and im in for sunday! I have never been to Inverness place, and i dont have much offroading equipment at all just FYI. what time are we thinking? meet up there? or meet and roll out?

I could go the 24th but my girl's bday is the 23rd.... miss that one i might just lose the pathfinder lmao but i'm all about getting a ride together, just gotta fix my crazy exhaust leak i dont care about the rest of the issues it just needs to get dirty already haha

Idk it's not that high I just noticed for some reason it's got less wheel gap than any other stock pathfinder I see so I figured it had bigger body spacers but I'll be lifting it more eventually anywas so oh well.... Lol

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What were the results of the new O2? If your having issues on 2,4,6 I would tend to think you have a bad bank 2 sensor 1 O2. If you can check it with a ranging multimeter you should see a sine wave of it quickly fluctuating between 200mv sweeping up to 850mv and back, anything 50+ mv outside that range at all would indicate a bad or failing sensor.

Ya I'm on the fence about them. Went to the junkyard for a door handle and found flares, a new center console, AC control head and said screw it, paid $50 for everything so I guess why not? But if when trailing they get ripped off I will not be caring what-so-ever hahah

I believe so yes! Ha okay! And mines not too noticeable but the top half is rhino lined and it's missing a front driver fender flare lol

I work at a company that primarily builds and deals with Skylines, and I would definitely say the RB25 would be a good swap candidate but Im not sure about the AWD functionality. If the half shafts for a pathy are similar in length I think that it COULD work but the ATTESSA system is an electronically controlled AWD function and only directs power to the front wheels when it senses slip in the rear so 90% of the time its RWD. I believe an RB20 oil pan could be fit onto an RB25 if you wanted to keep it simple and do only RWD which is what I would do IMO. The engine mounts im not too sure about but they're fairly generic to VG series motors and easily modifiable so theres a solid chance they'd drop right in, and the RB series runs a clutch fan so you should be good there. just remember though that while the RB25 is turbo'd it's technically a whole half liter smaller than a VG30 so you'll loose a good amount of low end power. hope some of this was helpful, lemme know if you have anymore questions about RB series anything.

just joined NPORA but im near Demonpath03 in the east Orlando area, I drive through Oviedo to and from work every day actually! its not exactly great but it is "Off-road" and that's the Tosahatchee Preserve off SR520 just before you get to 528(beachline) good few miles of trails, all flat, but plenty of space and some good little spots. there used to be a great spot off Curry Ford rd but they just recently finished putting a neighborhood on it

Stuck worse? Like get further then when 2 wheels give up your totally screwed? Haha

Thanks! It's definitely a good starting point with some potential! Been looking into getting a Lock-Rite to solve my open diff issues lol @ahardb0dy I pm'd you the VIN

have you checked condition of your MAF? TPS? i had a blonde moment a while back with another car that i forgot to plug the maf back in, started, idled down and stalled but would start and idle on second attempt but as soon as i touched the throttle it would fall on it's face. A car will run (idle) without either TPS or MAF but you wont really get anywhere with it. Make sure your TPS signal wire is sweeping between 0.4 and 4.5 volts and that your MAF is clean and free of debris. also, are you running the 3.3 or 3.0 ECU? not an expert on this part but im assuming there would be a major difference in the fuel base mapping

That's the impression I was under as well but when I signed up on this forum and there were like ten sub model trims I got so confused haha Guess it's an XE!

Thanks! It's been a while since I was on a car forum! Question for ya, originally the car had "xe-v6" on it so I assumed it was an XE. However after a while I noticed I was the only pathy I ever saw with it on the right side of the tailgate as opposed to everyone else having it on the left. Not to mention I have no "power" anything. No heated seat, no power windows or locks. So if it's not an XE what would it be? An E or S?

Hello, Andrew age 24 from Orlando, FL Im a full time mechanic for an Importing company that specializes in Classic Japanese sports cars Bought my (WD21) pathfinder about 2 months ago from a friend i used to work with for $300. It sat for a year and needed some serious TLC but she's been driven every day now. It's a 1992 Pathfinder (not sure if it's XE or S?) 5spd manual 263,xxx mi seems like it has a 1" body lift and has 235/75/15 Mesa A/P tires with the chrome rims. List of work done to it before it hit the road for daily driving. Transmission flush Diff Flush New Plugs and Intake plenum gasket Fuel filter New battery New starter New cap & Rotor for dizzy Fresh oil and filter All new belts new A/C control head (Compressor button and light were out) added fender flares New center console from a 95' auto painted whole top half to fix some deep/surface rusting on the roof. Used truck bed liner just to break away from matte black that everyone uses when painting things, turned out pretty well, you can see the before and after in the picture, i guess it was previously primed on the top half?